The Sea, Mountains, and a Roman Amphitheater

Morning came early.  The hotel buffet was spectacular.  Besides the usual stuff, it included champagne, caviar, four different kinds of fruit tarts (with the best pastry ever), capers, smoked salmon---you get the picture.  By 8:00 AM we were in the bus and going down the coast road to Pula.  After an hour and a half, we reached our destination. Our spirited local guide, Nada, showed us the local Roman ruins and they were spectacular.  The centerpiece was a huge Amphitheater.  Through excavation and reconstruction, it was fairly complete.  There were also huge Roman gates and a forum in the town.  Within a city block one could easily identify a Roman ruin, a Mussolini inspired building, a Tito era government building, and a building from the Austrian era. After a guided tour, we had some free time.  Then on to Rovinj where we enjoyed lunch.  At one point this part of Croatia was part of Italy and the Italian influence was present in the pasta and minestrone soup we enjoyed for lunch.
Croatia has many, many islands some inhabited and some not.  We took a walking tour of an island that was actually connected to the mainland because locals had piled rocks between the two over a period of years.  It is truffle season and our guide showed us a small bottle of truffles that were for sale.  Truffles are a fungus that grow underground and are detected by specially trained dogs.  He described truffles as a fungus that tasted nutty and smelled like sweaty socks. One kilo sells for $4,500. Soon we were on the road again.  The hour and a half hour ride was a good opportunity for a nap.  Before dinner we had a lecture on Croatia today.  One interesting tidbit was that someone living in this area could (hypothetically) be an Austrian around the turn of the century, then an Italian, then a Yugoslavian, now a Croatian, and a member of the European Union next year and all without moving.
Other tidbits:

• Chestnuts are in season.  There are stands along the street where chestnuts are being roasted.  We bought some tonight and ate them on the way home.
• Used a bathroom in a restaurant today where the stall was very small and dark, but lighted by a single bulb.  As soon as the door closed the light went off.  I waved my hand and it turned on and stayed on for 10 seconds, then went out again.  I ended up waving my hand most of the time I was in there.  That was a new one on me.  
• As we drove from Zagreb to Sarajevo the other day I wondered why most of the houses were of the same design--concrete block, covered with cement and red tile roofs. They were either 2 or 3 stories high and appeared to have 4 rooms on each floor.  Turns out that to build a house in the Tito era, one had to have a permit.  Permits were only granted to those using the approved design.  Now people are eager to build some homes that don't have so many steps and have a little character.
• To be a coffee drinker here is to be committed.  One has to wait for the coffee to be served.  Refills happen at breakfast if you are patient and beg.  At other meals, you pay for another cup of coffee if you want another one.  
• We noticed small stone 'igloos' in the fields.  What are they?  This area is subject to very powerful bura winds (up to a 100 miles/hour).  The igloos (they have a different name, but that is the shape) are to protect the workers and their tools.  He suggested that they might also be the site for 'other activities.' 
• Croatia hopes to be approved to join the European Union next year.  They are doing some things to get ready.  One is to maximize the number of olive trees.  EU wants to limit the number of olive trees and therefore, support the olive oil price.  Therefore Croatia was to have as many olive trees planted because EU will not allow new ones to be planted.  

I have rambled on long enough.  Good night!