A Cultural Connection

Last night we traveled north of Dubrovnik winding up into the hills and through small villages.  The road was so narrow that our large bus was like a tank--small cars meeting us had to back up into any little spot they could find as we charged on through.  Finally we reached our destination.  Our hosts were waiting for us.  We divided into two groups, following our hosts to their home.  We were entertained on an outside veranda and offered fresh grapes which they had picked from the arbor over the veranda --also walnut brandy and/or homemade grappa.  Our hostess was in her early 20's and spoke excellent English.  Her brother was 18 and a reluctant participant.  Her father, Niko (grilled the meat) and mother (cooked most of the meal) also had jobs away from the farm.  We toured their small farm (40 acres), the smoke house, the winery, the barn (met the cow named Stella --much to the amusement of everyone), the cat, the 2 pigs, 2 goats, and some chickens.  We were invited into the dining room for dinner.  Our first course was prosciutto (from a pig they butchered and then smoked), fresh cheese and aged cheese (they made both), marinated red peppers and homemade bread made by Mother.  Of course, we also had red wine which they had made---not bad. It was all delicious.  Then came the main course: a fresh lettuce salad, roasted potatoes and platters of grilled meat including chicken, pork, sausages of beef and pork --all bathed in lots of olive oil (which they also produced from their own olives.  Mother kept telling daughter (in Croatian) to tell us to eat more.  We were soon stuffed.   She served a beautiful flan for dessert. During the meal, our hostess told how her father served with the Croatian army during the war.  They were all driven from their home.  The mother and children spent several months with relatives in Dubrovnik and then six months in a refugee camp.  Their house was destroyed.  They have rebuilt it with help from the government.  It was a wonderful evening.  It was obvious that they really enjoyed entertaining us and we had such a good time.  We waddled back to the bus.
Today we drove south into Montenegro (Black Mountains)--another former Yugoslavian country--more borders and passport controls.  They use the Euro even though they are not a European Union country. It rained off and on all day - a good day for Keen sandals with no socks- the water ran through them. We toured two walled cities--Kotor and Budva Old Town.  Another good looking guide - Stephan.  He (also his Dad and Brother) was recommended in Rick Steves' book.  Montenegro is a grittier country with  less income per person.  They are trying to develop their tourism, but have overbuilt their utilities  and the need in some places.  There were a number of abandoned buildings under construction.  We drove along the coastline all day with beautiful scenery.  At one point coming back we took a ferry and a 10 minute ride across the river which saved us 45 minutes on the highway.  That's it for today.