Postscripts to our trip

On Tuesday morning our luggage had to be outside our door by 7:00 AM.  We had to be standing on the dock at 8:00 AM.  Marijo had ordered transportation to the airport.  We had two small boats.  There were six on the other boat and four in ours.  Venice is sophisticated but there is nothing sophisticated about boarding a small boat that is bouncing up and down in the water.  Anyway, we got on and so did our luggage.  Instead of heading down the lagoon to the airport pier, we headed across the lagoon to Venice and up a canal, going very slowly under the bridges.  We ended up in the middle of the city, the boats docked and we were directed to two waiting mini-vans who then drove us to the airport. 
The drivers of the boats in Venice do not lack bravado or showmanship.  They always seem to be heading for the same docking spot and challenge each other with yelling, all kinds of hand motions, boat whistles, etc.  It is fun and entertaining after you figure out that they aren't going to kill each other!
Our trip home was uneventful --the best kind.  Larry and Nancy Matthews met us at O'Hare and chauffeured us home.  What a treat!
By now we have had a good night's sleep, washed many loads of laundry, gone to the grocery store, sorted the mail, and looked at our pictures.  It was a great trip. 

Our last day in Venice

We left the hotel early, boarded our boat and headed across the lagoon to Venice.  It was a 15 minute trip.  When we arrived, it was very crowded because all the cruise ship passengers were on their tour also.  It was absolutely body to body as we struggled to follow our local guide to the Palace of the Doge.  In Venice, you walk the equivalent of a short block, then up a bridge (steps), then down (more steps) as you pass over a canal and there are plenty of canals.  The Palace was very elaborately decorated with statues, golden ceilings, art work on the walls, etc.  The tour lasted about an hour and then we were turned loose to shop.  Had lunch.  Chuck order pizza with anchovies and I had lasagna --delicious.  Then back to the boat except where was the boat?  In the press of people upon our arrival, we hadn't paid as close attention as we should.  Eventually we found our group and the boat.  Back to the hotel.
At 2:30 PM we left on a boat (of course) for a tour of Murano and a glass factory.  After walking around the island of Murano, we headed for Burano which is an island famous for lace making.  Watched an older lady (probably my age) make lace --very tedious and therefore, very expensive.  Enjoyed a wonderful coffee gelatto cone.  Talk about expensive, it was 1.5 Euros ($2) to use the public bathroom.  But when you have to go, you pay the price.  Back to the hotel.  The sun was low in the sky.  The tugboats were pulling the cruise ships out of harbor.  Our vacation is almost over.  We head out at 8:00Am tomorrow.  Thanks for traveling with us.  I'll probably post one more time after we get home.  Good night!

Greetings from watery Venice

Left Optija around 10 AM ---to leave earlier would have got us here without our rooms being ready.  Went through Slovenia.  We all had to disembark, walk to the passport booth (like a toll booth on the highway), show our passport, and walk back to stand along the highway.  When all had cleared, the bus drove ahead and we got back on. Slovenia is part of the European Union so we will not have to show our passport again.   Within a half hour, we were through Slovenia and entered Italy.  Stopped at a rest stop for lunch.  We needed Euros.  We didn't have many Euros but enough to buy a sandwich to split and a cappacino to split.  Also had nuts that we had squirreled away from breakfast, chocolates from the hotel, and water.  By 2 PM we arrived at the pier in Vennice. Told the bus driver and bus, "Good-by." Carried our carry-ons to a waiting boat and motored to our hotel.  It is a Hilton that is in a former factory building.  Very nice.  We can see St. Mark's Square across the canal.  The weather is cool.  The internet is expensive. 

Last full day in Croatia

I did not go on the day trip today--my stomach didn't feel the best when it was time for the bus to leave.  However, within an hour, it was better.  I took a walk on the promenade, re-packed, went to the grocery store, etc.   Chuck went with the group so he is dictating the narrative.
"As we left the hotel, we drove through Croatia's third largest city, Rejeka, which is an industrial city with a huge ship yard.  We left Rejeka and went across the bridge to Krk (no vowels) which is the largest island in Croatia - a country of many islands.. Krk is an island with stones, rich soil, and towns. Vineyard and olive orchards are nestled between rows of huge dry stone walls.  We drove to Krk Town to tour the old city which was founded and ruled by the Venetians over the centuries.  We took a guided walking tour around the town.  After some free time and a good cup of coffee, we departed for Vrbnik which is the only town on the island founded by Croatians. A fine lunch in a winery was enjoyed with some good Croatian wine--white, red, and dessert wine.  Bus back to the hotel."
When Chuck returned, we went for a cup of coffee.  Then we walked along the Promenade.  A wedding party was having pictures taken in front on the statue of the maiden holding a seagull (a real seagull was perched on the statue's head).  The bride had a traditional strapless wedding dress with many ruffles in the skirt.  She was wearing bright red platform heels. Tonight was the farewell banquet because tomorrow we leave for Venice.  Our bus driver will drive us to Venice and will then take the bus back to Zagreb.  There were toasts to our bus driver and guide, a touching thanks from the man whose wife fell (she ended up staying with the group but has mostly been in her hotel room), great food, and many pictures. 

The Sea, Mountains, and a Roman Amphitheater

Morning came early.  The hotel buffet was spectacular.  Besides the usual stuff, it included champagne, caviar, four different kinds of fruit tarts (with the best pastry ever), capers, smoked salmon---you get the picture.  By 8:00 AM we were in the bus and going down the coast road to Pula.  After an hour and a half, we reached our destination. Our spirited local guide, Nada, showed us the local Roman ruins and they were spectacular.  The centerpiece was a huge Amphitheater.  Through excavation and reconstruction, it was fairly complete.  There were also huge Roman gates and a forum in the town.  Within a city block one could easily identify a Roman ruin, a Mussolini inspired building, a Tito era government building, and a building from the Austrian era. After a guided tour, we had some free time.  Then on to Rovinj where we enjoyed lunch.  At one point this part of Croatia was part of Italy and the Italian influence was present in the pasta and minestrone soup we enjoyed for lunch.
Croatia has many, many islands some inhabited and some not.  We took a walking tour of an island that was actually connected to the mainland because locals had piled rocks between the two over a period of years.  It is truffle season and our guide showed us a small bottle of truffles that were for sale.  Truffles are a fungus that grow underground and are detected by specially trained dogs.  He described truffles as a fungus that tasted nutty and smelled like sweaty socks. One kilo sells for $4,500. Soon we were on the road again.  The hour and a half hour ride was a good opportunity for a nap.  Before dinner we had a lecture on Croatia today.  One interesting tidbit was that someone living in this area could (hypothetically) be an Austrian around the turn of the century, then an Italian, then a Yugoslavian, now a Croatian, and a member of the European Union next year and all without moving.
Other tidbits:

• Chestnuts are in season.  There are stands along the street where chestnuts are being roasted.  We bought some tonight and ate them on the way home.
• Used a bathroom in a restaurant today where the stall was very small and dark, but lighted by a single bulb.  As soon as the door closed the light went off.  I waved my hand and it turned on and stayed on for 10 seconds, then went out again.  I ended up waving my hand most of the time I was in there.  That was a new one on me.  
• As we drove from Zagreb to Sarajevo the other day I wondered why most of the houses were of the same design--concrete block, covered with cement and red tile roofs. They were either 2 or 3 stories high and appeared to have 4 rooms on each floor.  Turns out that to build a house in the Tito era, one had to have a permit.  Permits were only granted to those using the approved design.  Now people are eager to build some homes that don't have so many steps and have a little character.
• To be a coffee drinker here is to be committed.  One has to wait for the coffee to be served.  Refills happen at breakfast if you are patient and beg.  At other meals, you pay for another cup of coffee if you want another one.  
• We noticed small stone 'igloos' in the fields.  What are they?  This area is subject to very powerful bura winds (up to a 100 miles/hour).  The igloos (they have a different name, but that is the shape) are to protect the workers and their tools.  He suggested that they might also be the site for 'other activities.' 
• Croatia hopes to be approved to join the European Union next year.  They are doing some things to get ready.  One is to maximize the number of olive trees.  EU wants to limit the number of olive trees and therefore, support the olive oil price.  Therefore Croatia was to have as many olive trees planted because EU will not allow new ones to be planted.  

I have rambled on long enough.  Good night!

Taking the High Road to Opatija

We got up early so we would have time to take one more walk around the beautiful grounds at Hotel Ivan.  (Forgot to tell you that Hotel Ivan has shuttered balconies that allowed us to enjoy the cool mountain air.  There were no screens, but mosquitoes that dive bombed us several times each night. Definitely added to the ambiance. The twin beds were very narrow.  I haven't slept on a bed that narrow since the cots at Camp Hitaga!) Left Sibernik at 8:30  and continued north.  Instead of taking the coastline as we had been, we took a super highway set further inland--not as pretty but much faster.  The rocky terrain continued.  Occasionally we would see a flock of sheep and they always had a shepherd with them.  Seems that wolves are common in the area and are protected so the sheep need someone to protect them from the wolves.  Drove through several long tunnels --one was 3.1 kilometers long.  After miles and miles of rocks, rocks, rocks, we finally drove over the mountains and saw some fertile soil and some good crops.  This year has a particularly good olive crop--the trees are hanging heavy.  Around 2:00 pm we had passed through Rijeka (3rd largest city) and arrived in Opatija.  This is a spa/resort area that was developed by the Austrians around the beginning of the 20th century.  The hotel is lovely.  Our room faces the water.  Of course, it is eerily quiet without the rock band. Chuck and I ate a late lunch at the Terrace Cafe.  We noticed pigeons hopping around between the tables.  Occasionally one would hop on a table, but it wasn't until the gentlemen at the table next to us left that they really showed their stuff.  They dived the table and a coffee cup hit the rock terrace and broke.  The pigeons were into the leftover desserts--had whipped cream all over their   faces and a mess on the ground. The waiters seemed unconcerned.  We had enjoyed the best walnut cake I have ever tasted, but were ready to leave before the pigeons turned their attention to us. Took a walking tour of the promenade along the water.  Dinner included a choice of sword fish or chicken.  Another delicious dessert---the Austrian influence.  Time to put my full tummy to bed.  

A Tale of Perserverance

While writing this we are listening to a rock band so loud that normal conversation is impossible, but we will get to that later.  Yesterday we left Dubrovnik and drove up the Dalmatian coast--always within sight of the Adriatic Sea.  Of course, we had to pass through the 12 mile strip of Bosnia so two passport stops going in and 12 miles later two passport stops leaving Bosnia. We stopped at Split (2nd largest city in Croatia) for lunch. Later we toured the Palace of Diocletian (the last pagan ruler).  It was actually a large walled compound- 3rd century.  He lived there but so did many others.  It is still occupied as we could tell by laundry flapping on lines, children playing, etc. It was beautifully decorated (restored after earthquakes) and pretty substantial.  Soon we were on the road again.  Now I have to admit that I slept most of the trip, but I do know that the mountainous terrain was covered with rocks that people had tried to clear over the ages.  Property was bordered with rock fences.  Everything was made of rock.  Olive trees and grape vines prevailed between the rocks.
Finally we arrived in Sibenik and the Hotel Ivan--a page out of Tito's regime.  This hotel complex is set in a seaside park with very nice landscaping, walking paths, and the best beach we have seen in Croatia.  The lobby was huge and modern.  Our room is very modest, but adequate (think Super 8).  Chuck said that this reminds him of a place that would have been used to reward middle management of the Tito regime.  The dining room is huge and it was full last night with many people here for a convention.  Of course, we were all serving ourselves from the same Buffet--Yikes!
The use of the internet has been free (included) in all the hotels we have stayed at except this one.  They are charging $8.00/day.  I decided to wait until today and just pay once so I did not blog yesterday.
This morning we drove a half hour to Krka National Park.  What a shockingly beautiful park.  It reminded us of Yosemite with many waterfalls.  At one point there were 10 tiers of waterfalls. Saw the first hydroelectric plant in Croatia built in 1895 (2 days after the one in Niagara Falls).  It also included exhibits of early farming methods, weaving displays, souvenir stores, snack shops, etc.  All of a sudden we heard a cannon go off.  Our guide was alarmed and tried to find out what was going on.  Then it went off again.  Finally found out that some landmines were being detonated (like we witnessed on the way to Sarajevo).  After a pleasant walk, we took a half hour boat ride down the river. Took the bus to Jurlinovi Dvori and a priest's home.  The home was a series of rooms all off a courtyard housing, a smoke house, chapel, bedroom with weaving loom, museum with tools, kitchen with an open fire.  He started the meal with his own grappa (straight or with herbs), dried figs, and almonds that you had to crack yourself--rock provided.  We were then seated in a dining room and his cook served us a soup (barley and garbanzo beans in a roasted red pepper base) delicious., bread and olive oil.  Then came the fish------deep fried smelt but they were the size of minnows.  They were crispy little critters that you were suppose to dip in olive oil and pop into your mouth.  Chuck loved them, of course.  I ate one.  Back to the hotel.  I finally paid the $8.00 and used my IPhone for 15 minutes. Then we went on a walking tour of Sibenik old town including the Cathedral which was very elaborate.  When we came back, I ran up and got the IPad and was going to blog.  However, I couldn't get on the internet because I could only use one device (I didn't know that.) I talked to the desk clerk but she was unmoved.  I sure didn't want to pay more.  Finally Mario interceded and I have been able to blog without paying more.
Tonight's dinner was at a different restaurant on the property.  Our group was seated in a stone room with a professional soccer team.  We were serenaded by a group of musicians.  Talk about loud.  We had Tuna steak or grilled meats.  Apple strudel for dessert.  Now for the loud part.  There is a Rock Band entertaining a conference in an outdoor courtyard right below our room and they are playing until midnight.  Time to wrap this up.  

A Cultural Connection

Last night we traveled north of Dubrovnik winding up into the hills and through small villages.  The road was so narrow that our large bus was like a tank--small cars meeting us had to back up into any little spot they could find as we charged on through.  Finally we reached our destination.  Our hosts were waiting for us.  We divided into two groups, following our hosts to their home.  We were entertained on an outside veranda and offered fresh grapes which they had picked from the arbor over the veranda --also walnut brandy and/or homemade grappa.  Our hostess was in her early 20's and spoke excellent English.  Her brother was 18 and a reluctant participant.  Her father, Niko (grilled the meat) and mother (cooked most of the meal) also had jobs away from the farm.  We toured their small farm (40 acres), the smoke house, the winery, the barn (met the cow named Stella --much to the amusement of everyone), the cat, the 2 pigs, 2 goats, and some chickens.  We were invited into the dining room for dinner.  Our first course was prosciutto (from a pig they butchered and then smoked), fresh cheese and aged cheese (they made both), marinated red peppers and homemade bread made by Mother.  Of course, we also had red wine which they had made---not bad. It was all delicious.  Then came the main course: a fresh lettuce salad, roasted potatoes and platters of grilled meat including chicken, pork, sausages of beef and pork --all bathed in lots of olive oil (which they also produced from their own olives.  Mother kept telling daughter (in Croatian) to tell us to eat more.  We were soon stuffed.   She served a beautiful flan for dessert. During the meal, our hostess told how her father served with the Croatian army during the war.  They were all driven from their home.  The mother and children spent several months with relatives in Dubrovnik and then six months in a refugee camp.  Their house was destroyed.  They have rebuilt it with help from the government.  It was a wonderful evening.  It was obvious that they really enjoyed entertaining us and we had such a good time.  We waddled back to the bus.
Today we drove south into Montenegro (Black Mountains)--another former Yugoslavian country--more borders and passport controls.  They use the Euro even though they are not a European Union country. It rained off and on all day - a good day for Keen sandals with no socks- the water ran through them. We toured two walled cities--Kotor and Budva Old Town.  Another good looking guide - Stephan.  He (also his Dad and Brother) was recommended in Rick Steves' book.  Montenegro is a grittier country with  less income per person.  They are trying to develop their tourism, but have overbuilt their utilities  and the need in some places.  There were a number of abandoned buildings under construction.  We drove along the coastline all day with beautiful scenery.  At one point coming back we took a ferry and a 10 minute ride across the river which saved us 45 minutes on the highway.  That's it for today.

Enjoying Dubrovnik

We opted out of the optional trip today.  Instead we slept late.  Around 11:30 AM, we started walking down the road to where there is beach access and many restaurants.  We walked above the beach on a  walkway which followed the coast.  Eventually we ate lunch at a seaside restaurant--Chuck had grilled fish with potatoes and I had fish soup- very good. Sometimes it is a challenge to figure out which bathroom to use but today's was cute and obvious:  one had a silhouette of a little boy using a urinal and the other had a silhouette of a little girl--with pony tail--sitting on a potty. On the way back, we stopped at a small convenience store and bought a bottle of wine to take tonight's dinner in a local home.
Time to share some general information:  Our bus driver's name is  Boris.  He is an excellent driver and can maneuver the bus through spots that I probably couldn't manage a compact car.  Our program manager's name is Mario.  He is very good and has been doing this for 11 years. In general, Croatia would be a OSHA inspector's nightmare with unexpected steps here and there, no handrails, etc.  The money is a kuna which is worth a little less than 20 cents.  Bosnia had its own money --a mark, but would accept anything: kunas, Euros, dollars, etc.  I have never figured out why they like to receive bills for payment, but then give you back a handful of coins which gets heavier and heavier in your pockets. Dogs and cats run wild.  You seldom see an animal on a leash.  They don't seem to cause problems or leave surprises on the sidewalks! The weather changes in an instant.  One minute the sky is a beautiful blue with puffy clouds and the next it is dark and raining.  We always carry an umbrella.  We are down to a group of 18.  The lady who fell yesterday and her husband are flying back to California as soon as they can get their tickets lined up.  That's way too bad.  Will close for today.  

Dubrovnik's Old Town

It was amazing to wake up feeling well rested and look out and see the Adriatic Sea.  Of course, the view was different later in the day when our laundry was flapping on the balcony.  I'm sure the manager of the hotel was thrilled.
Today we toured Old Town which is a very old walled city.  Lucas (a young Brad Pitt) was our guide. Old Town suffered shelling and damage during the War.  It has been repaired.  Our walking tour took us up and down streets and alleys.  Visited an open market which was fragrant with fresh and dried lavender.  One of the local specialties  was candied lemon and orange peel.  They also had other herbs, nuts, and sweets. Later Chuck and I found the steps to the top of the wall and walked along the top for a while--until we came to a ticket booth and had to pay.  By that time we had the experience, climbed enough steps and it was hot so we went down.  The area was inundated with cruise ship tourist (720 cruise ships docked here last year).  Tourist areas love the cruise ship money and hate being so overwhelmed by the sheer number of bodies.  We ate lunch and then caught the bus back to the hotel.
This evening we returned to Old Town and a concert in a small old church.  Just as we got into the bus, it started to rain.  By the time we got to Old Town, it had stopped raining.  However, one of the ladies in our group slipped and fell on the wet limestone streets. (It was determined that she had a hairline fracture of her femur and will be hospitalized for a day or so.) Later we ate dinner at a small seafood restaurant.  It was down one of the alleys.  Our table was in the alley---not as wide as our garage with tables for four on either side, people walking down the center of the alley and a feral cat or two wandering by, too.  Chuck had mussels in a local specialty sauce (tomato, garlic, onion, olive oil).  I had scampi in the same sauce.  Good but alot of work.  Finished the evening with an ice cream cone.

Through the mountains to Drobrovnik

It was one of those pack the bags, eat the breakfast and get on the bus mornings.  Our Sarajevo guide traveled with us to Mostar.  We drove around Sarajevo to get a better feel of the city--saw the Olympic village now occupied by locals, and went up the mountain to look down on the city.  The morning was misty and cool We basically drove downhill all day.  It was our turn to sit behind the driver in the front seat.  We did not see the obvious war damage today.  We drove along a river and the two power plants built on it.  Mostar is a tourist destination because of a high arched bridge built in 1535 (the largest one of its day) and destroyed on 9/11/1993.  It was rebuilt in the late 90's.  In Mostar itself, we did see bullet/shrapnel damage on buildings. Our guides were both grateful to US/NATO intervention.  We took a walking tour of the city (in the drizzle) and had lunch.  By 3:00 PM we were  on the road again.  Went through Bosnia-Herzegovina passport control and also Croatia passport control.  Drove through some beautiful farming country with grapes high on the hills and other crops in the valley.  Every fresh produce stand featured piles of red peppers and fresh mandarin oranges.  Through a Croatia passport control, B-H control, through a 12 mile strip of Bosnia's access to the sea, and then two more controls ending up in Dubrovnik, Croatia.  We are at a hotel located on the Adriatic Sea (we can hear the waves) and will be here for four nights.  Had a buffet dinner that featured seafood --we have been waiting for that. It will feel good to be in the same spot a while and do some laundry.

Greetings from Sarajevo

Today was a long ride on the bus.  We left our hotel at 9:00 AM.  It was a grey, misty morning as we drove east out of Croatia.  Twice traffic was stopped as they were de-mining (land mines) areas near the highway.  We were not detained because once they had just finished and the next time, they had not started yet. The war ended in 1995, but many reminders remain. The land was fairly flat, good farm land.  We went through passport control as we left Croatia.  One hundred yards down the road we went through passport control as we entered Bosnia.  Immediately we saw houses that had been destroyed, others were rebuilt (totally or partially), and some good houses.  That scenario continued for a couple hours until we reached Sarajevo. Stopped for lunch along the way. The land became more mountainous.  As we neared Sarajevo, we could see the mountain where the 1984 Winter Olympics had been held.  We are staying at Hotel Europa where Archduke Ferdinand from Austria had stayed the night before he was assassinated.  A block from here he was killed and World War I started. Needless to say the hotel has been renovated since then. We settled in at the hotel, had a cup of coffee, and then took a long walking tour sprinkled with footnotes of history and explanations of the 1991-5 war.  Our guide was a real character, a self-avowed communist, a guide for Clinton, and Richard Gere. Enjoyed dinner at a Bosnian restaurant:  started with samples of cheese, spinach, and meat pies, followed by Bay soup, and then entrees of meat kabobs, stuffed green pepper, sausages, etc.  A variety of desserts followed. It was very similar to Turkish food.  Waddled back to the hotel. 

Touring Zagreb

The world is much better after a good night's sleep.  We are 7 hours ahead of Rockford.  There are 20 in our tour group - a very nice number for keeping track of people and transportation.  It looked a little cool so wore a tee shirt, long sleeve shirt, and a rain jacket.  I was still a cool.  Had occasional sprinkles, but no real rains.  Took a bus tour around Zagreb with a local guide.  Although there were two attacks here during the Croatian wars: one in 1991 and one in 1995, there were only 12 deaths in Zagreb, the capital.  Saw Lower Town with Art Nouveau design, Upper Town (took a funicular  to get there) of Medieval  origin, and the modern high rise (Russian design??).  Toured the cathedral with its spectacular chandeliers from a bankrupt LasVegas casino (no kidding).  Saw the outside of St. Mark church with its tile roof depicting Croatian designs.  Chuck and I walked back to the hotel.  Went to the underground mall next door (which is also a train station) and ordered Pizza (24 " diameter, cut in 6 pieces.  When sold, a piece is folded and slipped into a paper bag.  People walk down the street eating out of the bag --no napkins included).  We ordered a piece of cheese pizza which was topped with whole kernel corn, and thinly sliced green and red peppers. Went to another stand and ordered two pastries.  Went to a coffee bar and had coffee.  Fortunately, I carry napkins, plastic ware, and Wet Ones in my bag.  After going back to the hotel to get more clothing, we walked down the street to a large botanical garden.  All plants were labeled and it was very interesting.  For supper, we further explored the mall and ate like the locals: wine and potato chips from the grocery store and a sandwich from a shop where I learned how to order from a young man in line who spoke English.  We have noticed that most of the people in the mall are young, tall, and slender.  Is it close to the university? --don't know--probably. Zagreb is a very clean city and easy to walk around.  

Arrival in Zagreb

We left Chicago last night about 6:30 PM.  It is now 4:30 PM on Tuesday and we feel like we have been up too long and slept poorly on the plane---all of that is to be expected.  When we landed in Munich at 9:30 AM, it was rainy and cold. I found it interesting that people were drinking wine and eating ice cream at that time of day.  Chuck thought a cup of coffee and an apricot croissant were a more sensible choice.  When we landed here after an hour long flight, it was a nice sunny day.  Zagreb is a large city of one million people.  We took a short walk to a nearby underground shopping mall to buy water and get money changed.  We have already met two other couples and tonight we have our orientation and welcome dinner.  

Getting ready to travel to Croatia

We are traveling to Croatia next week.  Why Croatia?  Because we have never been there.  We are visiting the countries of the former Yugoslavia and ending up in Venice, Italy for three days.  Will blog whenever we get the chance.  We are smarter about Internet  access, but it isn't always available.    Come along and enjoy the trip.