Postscripts from Chuck

 We have been home almost a week and have had time to reflect on our trip.  Below are some thoughts from Chuck. 

Cuban people are friendly, like Americans, punctual, and have higher standards of cleanliness than most of the Caribbean islands we have visited.  Women predominate in the professions (doctors, lawyers, etc). They hold 80 to 85% of those jobs. 

Most of the food (80%) is imported due to (1) many soils are eroded and depleted due to 200-300 years of constant sugar cane growing, (2) hurricanes very often damage crops and soil, (3) crop inputs such as fertilizers and modern crop varieties are very expensive and limited due to the embargo, (4) most of the agriculture is similar to the USA in the 1920s and 30s.  There is a shortage of modern equipment.  We observed oxen working in the fields. Subsistent farms dominate with small landholdings. 

American cars of all makes from 1950 to 59.  As parts have needed to be replaced, they are often made in Cuba or scavenged from other cars. Example: we rode in a ‘52 Chevy convertible with a Hyundai motor. The Cuban people are creative when it comes to repair.  In the 80s the Russians gave each family a mixer, a rice cooker, and another appliance. Jose, our guide told us that he had repaired the washer 3 times, the rice cooker 2 times, etc. Lots of shade tree mechanics!

Modern transportation in rural areas is scarce.  Saw many, many people standing along the road waiting for a bus. Horse carts are common transportation. Saw a few old Russian cars. Saw motorcycles (even electric ones) and bicycles. 

Many shortages exist including paint, new cars, plastic for food containers,.  The Embargo has hurt them deeply causing everything to be expensive due to transportation items. Cigars and rum cannot be shipped to the USA which has been a reduced source of income. The Cubans feel like it is time for the embargo to stop: they have been punished long enough.  IT’S COMPLICATED. 

Back in the USA

 First, let me start with our farewell dinner last night.  The bus took us to Old Havana (same general area where we explored the four squares).  It was after seven so it was dark but there were many people around and it was lively.  No cars are allowed in the area.  The cafes are allowed to set up tables in the streets (alley). We were seated at a long table parallel to the sidewalk.  In fact, people were walking right behind me sometimes bumping in.  There were feral cats under the  table - one was under my chair and another reached up for my napkin.  It didn’t help that some of our group fed them. (Stop laughing!) Of course, there was loud live music coming out of the cafe. Ordered white wine as did many others.  Came back to say they had no white so we were then served red wine.  The meal ended with rum —-served in test tubes (think Chemistry Class) Certainly made for interesting memories. 

Today was spent getting to the Havana Airport, flying (40 minutes), Customs, etc. in Miami.  As we were walking towards the Skytrain, an announcement said that it was not working. That meant that we had lots more walking to do. Had to climb up three flights of steps to get to customs. The rest went smoothly.  As we walked out with our luggage, a young couple approached me and asked if I spoke English. “Yes.” “What flight were you on?” I pointed to my luggage tag and they could see the number. Smiled and went on their way. Funny. We are staying near the airport.  Walked down the street to Burger King for supper.  

We traveled with a very compatible group of people, with Jim our Road Scholar tour director, with Jose our guide from the Cuban tourism bureau,  and Peter our fantastic bus driver. Jose did his best to explain Cuba to us.  Many times he ended his explanation with “It’s complicated.,” which became the chorus we repeated when anything unexpected happened.  It’s complicated! And he smiled and agreed. 

I may post a couple more times after we are home and digest all we have seen and heard. Back to winter tomorrow! Thanks for traveling with us. 

Friday in Havana

 Last night dinner was on our own.  We joined another couple and walked around the corner to a private restaurant.  We shared a plate of appetizers - bruschetta, ceviche, impanatas, fritters, etc. Then Chuck and I shared a small pizza - not spectacular, but a good change. Oh yes, the wine was good too.  

The trip is winding down and so are we.  This morning we heard a lecture from a university professor on the new Cuban constitution.  He spent 20 years in the diplomatic service including 3 years in Washington, DC and several years in Canada, too.  He spoke very fast but was most interesting - especially the impact of the US embargo on Cuba.  The Cuban people are ambitious and very persevering.  They can figure out a way around most road blocks. Could have listened to him for another hour or so.  

Took the bus to downtown Havana and visited the two remaining squares and learned the history of them. Observed families with their little ones chasing the pigeons, street venders selling peanuts and ‘crisps’ made of kassala, people in elaborate costumes charging when you took their photo, and pop-up musical groups passing the hat.  Lunch was on our own. Enjoyed a bowl of gazpacho and shared a delicious beef sandwich on a very tasty bun.  Finished off the meal with ice cream —ordered pistachio flavored ice cream but it looked like raspberry and tasted like raspberry.  Back to the hotel for siesta. 

Will learn about dominos in a bit and have our farewell dinner tonight.  

All around Havana

 This has been a fun, but exhausting day.  We started off with a lecture from a University professor who is an expert on gender studies and sociology.  She talked about women in Cuba.  She was very interesting and we could have listened for much longer than one hour.  Next we attended a performance by members of a professional dance team.  Their strength and versatility was amazing.  We had an opportunity to visit with the dancers.  One of the dancers wants to visit Chicago because she saw a television show that showed that Chicago had poor people, too, and it gave her hope.  Next we visited the Fine Arts Museum of Havana where the curator lead us on a tour. first, we had to walk up a ramp that was the equivalent of 4 stories —OMG.  He showed us paintings that were the outstanding ones in the museum and explained them in DETAIL.  Next, we walked on down the street for lunch.  Excellent lunch—you know the menu. This time we had cake for dessert. 

Old Havana has four squares.  We walked through two of them.  We had the option of taking a convertible ride in one of the antique cars. We rode in a red 52 Chevy convertible with a Hundai motor in it.  There were five cars loaded with people from our group parading around the city, honking musical horns, etc. Of course, there was a strong breeze that threatened to blow our hats off.  Ramon was our driver. He is also a nurse married to a psychologist.  They have two children.  He spoke good English and pointed our items of interest as he drove us back to our hotel. It was absolutely a fun adventure.  

Back in Havana

 After another delicious breakfast on the roof, we left Vinales and headed to the National Park. We walked and walked in the park. Our destination was the Mural de la Prehistoria which was painted from 1960-1964 on a rock wall.  It is huge (70 x 160 meters) and shows the evolution from dinosaurs to modern man in bright colors.  Of course, it has to be ‘freshened’ up every few years.  That needs to be done this year but there is a paint shortage so that is not happening.  Back on the road and up the mountain to a rather new hotel from which we can see the entire countryside —group pictures.  Back on the road and we head to an organic farm where we learned all about their operation and had a wonderful lunch.  They had 15 gardeners and the gardens were in raised beds with soil that they had hauled up the hill.  After driving over an hour, we reached a local community project run by the artist Mario Pelegrin which teaches children about art and pottery.  Hurricane Ivan really hit this area.  It damaged the entire building where pottery is taught —including kilns.  Many trees were also destroyed.  They are not government supported so are very concerned with rebuilding.  Today we observed that most field work is done with a team of oxen. 

A great-niece (2.5 years) of the owner named Alma was most entertaining.  After observing me sharing hand-sanitizer with other travelers, she came over and tapped on the zipper of my purse. I opened my purse, then she pretended to wash her hands, I got out my sanitizer and squirted a couple drops on her hands, she rubbed her hands together and trotted off! She was so cute and absolutely owned the place. We made a donation to the re-building and ended up with a painting.  

Back in the bus and drove 1.4 hours to Havana and the hotel we were in last week.  Hurricane Ivan was devastating to this area. Many trees uprooted, wooden buildings collapsed, others with roofs off, etc.  It will take a long time to get cleaned up. 

Last night we went out for tapas.  A good change after all the rice and beans, pork and chicken.  We are here three nights.  Wow, that sounds great.  

Greetings from Vinales

 Vinales is a relaxed destination for tourist and locals.  The government (who owns everything) was going to build a huge hotel here, but then decided to aid private families in building casas and rent them out as Bed and Breakfast spots.  Our place is spotlessly clean with a wonderful host and hostess. We have our own building (size of a large hotel room) and bathroom.  This morning we had breakfast on the roof—as did our fellow travelers staying in other B & Bs on this same cul de sac.  We waved to each other as we ate. Lots of courtyard space with tropical plants. A he’d and her baby chicks wandered thru.  

Met the bus at 9:30 and rose a short distance to a Botanical Garden. The last hurricane (Ivan?) was cruel to this area. We saw many uprooted trees on the way here. The Casa de Caridad Botanical Garden which 190 species of plants grown on 2 acres. Many valuable specimens were destroyed. In the hurricane.  Had a very good guide.  Left thre and drove to a  local tobacco farm. The farmer who was quite gregarious and charming showed us his tobacco crop and then rolled a cigar.  One of our group, who loves cigars, smoked it. He also passed out other cigars to all who wanted them. Four or five people enjoyed them.  We were served coffee (rum or not), toured his home, saw the turkey strutting around the yard and saw a team of oxen ready for work.  Left there and drove a short distance to another tobacco. Farm for lunch.  Observed the farm’s tobacco which had been destroyed by the hurricane. We ate a our lunch in an open-air building with a swift breeze blowing through.  It was around 80 degrees and very pleasant.  We could enjoy the rounded mountains that surround this area —very similar to the landscape in Guilin in Southern China. 

Tonight we are on our own for dinner.  Decided to seek out a Tapas bar. We have had such huge meals. The guide described Cuban food as “Not hot because the weather is hot enough!” Another description by the guide when trying to describe Cuba—“It’s complicated.” Ex. Why are you importing food when there are fields not planted? Why are Cubans being punished for something that happened so long ago? 

Another fact: Cuba is about 750 miles from each to west and the largest island in the Caribbean. 

P.S. This I Pad has its own mind when it comes to spelling. And punctuation.  

 Last night in Matanzas we went out to a paladar (private restaurant).  We had surf (lobster) and turf (pork). Of course our meal included rice and beans, guava fruit soup for dessert.  Four musicians entertained us for most of the meal—loud, good, and very entertaining Latin music.  Sometimes we sang along.  Back to the hotel by 9:30 pm.  

One more traveler contacted COVID so the three sick travelers headed back to Havana.  We headed down the road around 9 am.  Today was a travel day and we headed west.  Bathroom stop and then stopped for lunch/tour at UNESCO Biosphere Reserve (National Park) at LasTerrzas.  The project was developed to preserve and enhance the area.  The. Former farmers are employed taking care of the park.  For instance, the hills had been depleted so they were terraced and then planted with local tree species.  We had lunch - all foods were raised there—the best and tastiest chicken and pork along with rice and beans and squash. After lunch we visited a local artist and bought some souvenirs and we’re on our way.  The local guide was a University graduate, who spoke good English and had a delightful sense of humor. 

Then we headed to Vinales where we are staying in a bed and breakfast.  Wonderful casa owned by Carlos and Maritza. We have our small addition with our own bathroom. Very clean and spacious.  We are going to have breakfast on the roof top in the morning. Now I have to close so we can go out to eat. 

Water-we have been instructed repeatedly to now drink the water. In our rooms.  The bus always fills our bottles.  The restaurants provide a bottle of water Hotels usually have water or you can get it.  Seems like we are always ‘managing’ our water supply. Just part of the trip.  Now we off to dinner. 

Sunday in Matanzas

 It is a beautiful, sunny day in Cuba.  Fun to be here on Sunday.  Very quiet in the morning.  Then families strolling.  Some with a child or two, beautifully dressed and very pleased when you notice their children. In general, the Cuban people are very friendly.  Crime is low. Punishment is harsh. 

Our group consists of 18 people - 5 couples and 8 singles, 7 men and 11 women.  This morning’s report from Jim, our tour director, included that one of the men did not see a low chain across a street, fell, did a face-plant and broke his nose.  One lady has now tested positive for Covid and they are trying to decided what her next step is.  Neither traveled with us today. This has been a very nice group who get along well. In addition to huge holes in the sidewalks to dodge, there are many stray dogs and they leave souvenirs, too. 

We started by walking down to the water and visiting an art gallery.  The artist is know for using art to make public statements. For example, there was a bust of a man, mouth wide open, and little soldiers marching out followed by another bust of a man with a clothespin fastening his mouth shut.  Also a large statute in the street of a very skinny pig (If the pig can’t find enough to eat, how can we?).  Walked up to the public square and learned about the history of the area.  Just as we were to board the bus for our trip up to the seminary, we found out that because of COVID, the seminary is accepting no visitors.  Plan change. Across from the square was a pharmacology museum. It had been a pharmacy until 1964.  It closed and was made into a museum with all the bottles, etc., left as it was.  Very interesting. Took the bus up to the seminary so we could see the city from that site and also the bay. Then the bus took us to lunch. Lunch was down by the bay.  We sat outside in the shade with a great view of the bay.  Chuck had a whole red snapper fried and I had Cuban chicken (cut in strips with garlic and vegetables). Delicious.  The rest of the day is free.  Dinner with the group tonight. 

From the street on Mataza

 We are sitting outside on the street waiting for our paella—and beer.  Left Trinidad this morning and hit the road.  Basically, we retraced our path when we came down.  It was a long bus day.  Made one bathroom stop and continued on our way to a farm for lunch.  The name of the farm was a version of coincidence because the owners were pleased that everything came together for their farming and art project. The owners have been there 36 years. The father passed within the last 3 months and mother carries on with her three sons.  We had a family style lunch and all the food was raised on the farm.  Had chicken, pork ribs, rice and beans, salad, and lots of other food. It was delightful.  The owner took us on a tour of her 50 acres which had an amazing collection of plants and trees. Back on the road and on her way. When we got to Matanza, we immediately went to a local dance school and were treated to a half-hour program.  Then we met the amazing dancers who ranged in age from 18 to 44.  Checked in to the hotel.  Chuck and I are on the second floor.  Did I tell you that we climbed up the longest flight of steps ever!  Small room, but it has all we need.  Now we are sitting outside at a restaurant waiting for our food.  

We have encountered more surprise steps including one to get in the bathroom and one as we step out of the room.  

Will close for now.  The paella is almost here. Must add that we have three other travel companions at our table.  All have traveled widely and are great companions.  They are laughing and wanted to be sure that I mentioned their presence.  

Stella

It is hot in Cuba

 Finally got yesterday’s post to send.  Internet is intermittent at best.  But there is so much to tell.  

Today we are in Trinidad.  After breakfast, we left the hotel on foot and started walking. Now let me tell you about walking.  It is a full time job.  The worst cobblestones ever plus little steps every where (to channel the water during rainy season), and unexplained huge (foot square) holes in the side walk.  Only one person fell and I heard the guide say, “there goes the first one.”  Encouraging.  

We stopped by a little knitting and crochet shop which was a cooperative. It reminded me of the cooperative in North Carolina that my mother participated in.  I bought a crochet pendant necklace.  On up the hill and into the old part of the city.  Toured a Catholic Church.  Visited a woodworker who makes all kinds of very elaborate wooden carved projects out of reclaimed lumber.  Also had a museum of items from archeological sites.  As we listened to the carver, horses were pulling carts right outside the open window.  So strange to hear the steady stream of clip-clops Then. we walked back down the hill.  We can smell sweat, sunscreen, fresh bread, garlic, etc.  Trinidad is supposed to be the warmest place in Cuba and I believe it.  

The restaurant was cool and suppose to be the nicest in the city.  I believe them.  Our entree was shrimp. Our other choices included lobster, roast beef (coarsely shredded and spiced—-Chuck’s choice), red snapper and chicken.  Pineapple ice cream for dessert.  By the time lunch was finished, we were cooled down.  Returned to the bus for a 20 minute drive to Valle de los Ingenios - home of the sugar industry prior to the end of the 19th century.  Toured the remains complete with ruins of the slave headquarters. On the way back to town, we stopped at a pottery shop and watched an 80 year old potter make some beautiful creations.  Amazing. Enjoying a Mojito!

Through the countryside to Trinidad

 It was another early morning.  Bags out by 7:45 am and the bus pulled out at 8:30.  This was a bus day as we drove through the countryside on the way to Cienfuegos on the southern part of the island.   Most of the land was pretty flat with some fields of sugar cane almost ready to harvest.  The sugar market has gone to h—- so some fields are just laying fallow.  Saw more cows that I would have thought.  Lots of. Horses —the scrawny ones that pull carts.  Stopped for lunch at Cienfuegos.  Ate outside under the shade.  Then walked across the square to a small concert hall where a group of six musicians entertained us with Cuban music.  Very professional and such a treat.  Back across the square and met with the union rep of the Cuban artist and actors.  He loved to talk.  Purchased a small artwork.  With the economy the way it is here, it just feels like we need to help.  Try to be generous.