May 30 - Not a Holiday here

 Yesterday we had no internet or phone connection—what a strange feeling, but not unexpected in this remote part of the world.  I do want to start with the night before last when we had baked cod for dinner.  I know it doesn’t sound like much but it was super delicious - more like lobster - certainly not the frozen cod we have at home.  The helping was huge but we ate every morsel. 

We are circling Iceland clockwise and started at 8 and are now around 12.  This morning (Monday) we docked at Siglufjoroirand walked to the Herring Museum.  Herring was the main industry in this town from 1906 to 1960 when the waters were fished out.  We saw a demonstration of the Herring Girls who beheaded and gutted the herring and packed them in barrels with salt.  A dude played accordion music and later they danced to entertain us.  They also processed herring (oil, fish meal, etc.) for export.  It was huge until it wasn’t.  Walked down the street to a wonderful chocolate shop and supported the local economy.  Returned to the ship and sailed down the Eyjafjorour fjord to Hrisey Island.  

There was no dock so we boarded a zodiac.  Chuck and I got our backsides and pants wet during the ride.  That water was cold!!!!! We proceeded to hike a mile or so and birdwatch with the help of a guide.  There are many species of birds here and some even showed up for us.  I am not a good spotter.  Also visited the oldest house on the island and a small shark museum.  Returned to the zodiac.  We stayed dry this time but our travel companions got a little wet.  We were welcomed back on board with cups of hot chocolate.  

According to our phones we walked five miles today which allowed me to have ice cream with my sticky toffee pudding!

Sunday at the Waterfalls

 We are docked at Isafjordur.  It is a beautiful sunny Sunday morning.  We boarded a large bus and traveled an hour to Thingeyri - a town of over 2,000 inhabitants. We visited a recreated Viking Village/museum.  The docents were dressed in homespun costumes and explained Viking history. We were served a cup of the local beer (it was 10 am and even Chuck liked it). Then we were each given a small ball of dough which we rolled out and baked over a wood fire outside.  Delicious when spread generously with butter which N loved. Across the street there was a co-op which sold handmade goods from 26 artists.  I bought a small woolen sweater which was a wine bottle cover. Then we walked through the village and saw more historical evidence of early Viking history.  Lunch was served at a local guesthouse. We had sweet potato soup, bread and butter! 

Back on the bus.  Today we drove through several long (over 5 miles) tunnels—almost claustrophobic Our destination was Dynjandi Waterfalls which is the highest and most impressive waterfalls in the Westfjords.   The waterfall was very high and layered.  A walking stick was was helpful when walking up to falls.  The day was perfect with bright blue skies.  

Today’s scenery included many small farms along the road. The ewes and their little lambs are everywhere. There are fields of hay doted with large bales wrapped in white plastic.  Mountains are always in the background—still quite a little snow on them.  Icelanders love to brag about their abundance   Of water so it is no surprise to see streams of water coming down the mountains.  Of course, hydroelectric power is abundant. 

The captain’s dinner is tonight.  Considering the casual dress and hiking boots that we all wear, I am not anticipating beautiful gowns and tuxes!

Up to the Glacier

During the night we traveled to Stykkishisholmur - a town of 10,00. From the bay you can see a spaceship-like building which we were told was the Lutheran church. For the most part, the buildings are rather plain with vertical iron siding.  Quite a bit of color is used to balance the long dark winter.

 Today was an adventurous one.  We started off with a Zodiac ride.  Zodiacs are a motorized rubber boat (think Navy frogman) which holds  10-12 people.  Harps asked if we wanted to just take a little trip on one and we agreed. The day was perfect with absolutely calm seas. We dressed warmly and went down to the dock. To board, you grip the captain’s wrist/forearm and carefully step down three steps.  You sit on the edge of the boat and hold on.  We motored out to a small island and bird -watched for a bit.  Saw many seagulls and a few little puffins.  The whole experience was less than an hour but gives us a taste of the Zodiac which we will use later in our trip. 

Around 11 am, we dressed in our warmest clothes, picked up our sack lunch, and headed for the bus.  The bus took us an hour inland where we switched to two smaller buses and continued upward on very narrow roads. Half way up the mountain we got on snow cats (a truck with tracks and an open seating for 20 in the back).  We climbed up the snow-covered mountain for 45 minutes to the volcano crater which held the Snaefellsjokull Glacier. Altitude 4600 feet. By the time we got up there, the snow was blowing (zero visibility), and it was colder than cold. The snow was mushy underfoot and difficult to stand on.  In addition to usual underthings, I had an undershirt, fleece top, fleece pants, rainproof pants, down coat, gloves and hat.  I was warm enough not everyone was.  We didn’t stay up there very long.  Coming down went faster.  We stopped on the way down for a walk down to the shore. 

Tonight’s dinner was one for the books.  Chuck and I arrived at the dining room at 7 pm. Dinner was very slow.  We arrived back in our room at 9:30 pm.  That is how slow it was and we didn’t even have drinks.  The crew and kitchen still has lots to iron out.  The waiting was more bearable because we were with fun people. Signing off at 10:45 pm and it is still daylight.  

Sailing out to sea!

 This morning we were up bright and early.  We packed our bags, ate breakfast, and checked out of the hotel..  After loading our bags on the bus, we walked to a nearby museum and heard a lecture on Iceland’s past and present.  Interesting to hear about this relatively new country that had no indigenous people and was mostly covered in woods in 800 AD.  After an hour, we boarded the bus and rode to the National Museum of Iceland. The docent guided us around the museum and continued the history.  Especially liked  her explanation of Lutheranism as the state religion. Back on the bus.  We visited the National Concert Hall - Harpa where the symphony plays and other musical events.  It is a striking building that was under construction when the economy crashed in 2008 and sent all three banks in Iceland into failure. Eventually the money was found and construction finished. The exterior appears to be constructed of glass prisms - looks like a glass honeycombs. After more sightseeing, we were dropped off downtown.  It was an absolutely gorgeous, sunny day with many people outside.  We ate a little lunch at an American Pub. Walked around a bit and then caught the bus which took us to the Ocean Diamond—our home for the next week.  \

The Ocean Diamond just repositioned to Iceland a couple days ago so things are a little rough around the edges.There are 140 passengers.   Lifeboat drill was an hour late.  We have also had Zodiac orientation and received our Zodiac vests. They kept saying that WiFI was available in the cabin, but no one knew the price.  So here we are in the lounge listening to piano (needs tuning) music, drinking wine and sailing out of the harbor.  We are unpacked so it is time to call it a day. 

The Golden Circle

 First, I have to tell you that sundown is at 11 pm and sunrise is 3 am.  We are thankful for black-out drapes.  Had a wonderful sleep last night so the whole world seems better than after a night on the plane. 

Breakfast was at the hotel buffet.  Tourist season has just started and the hotel is full of tourist —many young people.  Our group is definitely the elder statesmen of the crowd.  The 7 am breakfast buffet line was very long and slow.  It was a beautiful sunny day with occasional sharp winds.  

Our day started with a tour of Thingvellir National Park where the original ruling body of the country met.  Iceland did not want a monarchy so representatives (and their horses, etc.) met during the summer to determine laws for the new country. Next we stopped at a thermal area where the earth is so hot that they can put bread —more like plum pudding —in a container, bury it a foot or so down, leave it 24 hours and eat the cooked product.  It is right beside a body of water where we put our hands in the water and found it to be very hot.  Weird to feel the earth be that hot! Our next stop was a restaurant where we were served lamb meat soup (No, I did not ask for the recipe), good rye bread and plenty of butter.  With our full bellies, we walked to the Geyser area and watched several geysers - none as big as Old Faithful, but still pretty showy.  

Our last stop was Gullfoss - golden falls—the most famous waterfall in Iceland.  Water from the Langokull glacier flows into the Hvita River. When it reaches the great canyon, it falls in two stages more than 100 feet.  Back on the bus for a 2 hour ride back to Reykjavik.  

We invited Beverly, a new found friend from the Red Group, to join us for dinner at the Seafarer, a local favorite, which is near our hotel.  We stood in line, ordered our food which included lobster soup, grilled shrimp, grilled sea trout, grilled vegetables, and a bottle of wine (courtesy of Beverly). L & D, this was very similar to the Crab Cooker in California including good homemade crusty bread.  Time for bed!

We arrived in Iceland.

 What day is this?  Chuck said that it is Wednesday, May 25. A long air flight, very little sleep, and new scenery will alter your sense of being.  To back up a bit, we are traveling with NM and KE who are also from Rockford.  We took the bus to O’Hare and caught our direct flight to Iceland.  We were to leave Chicago at 7:25 pm, but it was later. Our flight was 6.5 hours, but given that Iceland is five hours ahead of us, we arrived at  Keflavik International Airport at 7:00 in the morning.  After passing through customs and finding our bags, we met other Road Scholar travelers and found our guide.  None of us slept much if at all so you can imagine how we felt.  Of course, our guide was chipper and eager to get started.  She loaded us on to a big bus and we headed for breakfast.  Our light breakfast buffet was at the Viking World which featured a large old Swedish ship. By now we have found the rest of our Road Scholar group —the red group —20 travelers from all over the USA. 

After a light breakfast, we headed for the Reykjavik’s Peninsula that runs along the Mid-Atlantic Rift —where the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates meet and are drifting apart—hence the many earthquakes (most are minor) that happen here.  (It was one of those sights that you are told about, but can’t actually see anything happening.)  Had delicious fish and chips for lunch.  Cod is caught here and served fresh daily.  Then we headed to the Blue Lagoon. The stark terrain is filled with lava leftover from the many volcanoes that have erupted over the years. (Think South Dakota Badlands but with sharp, jagged rocks with no trees.) The Blue LaGoon is a pool of superheated water from a nearby lava flow in the middle of a lava field. Guests can dip in the warm waters of the pool and enjoy its healing power. Being the non-aquatic person that I am, I opted out.  N & K enjoyed the experience.  On the way to our hotel in Reykjavik, we enjoyed other sights. However, I (and many others) was lulled asleep by the bus!

The rest of the day was spent in Orientation and the Welcome Dinner (delicious fish soup, Roasted lamb and vegetables and a very rich chocolate torte).  Today was mostly sunny and around 50 degrees. Our hotel room is very European —small, convenient and compact.  Must get to bed. 

Packing for our trip to Iceland

 Friends, 

I have delayed packing as long as possible.  I think it is called procrastination.  Chuck took our puffy coats to the dry cleaners this morning.  Temperatures are supposed to be between 40 and 60 degrees, cloudy, and rainy, at times.  Does that sound like April?  

I am posting this as a trial. We have not traveled since May 2019 so wanted to see if this blog site still works. 

Well back to the suitcases. 

Stella