Reflections on the Canadian trip.

We all made it home safely and without major ‘incidents.’ That is a lot to be thankful for.
First, when I described our double cabin on the train I forgot to mention that the ladder to the top bunk was unmovable and opposite the bathroom door which made the squeeeeze even tighter.  How could I forget that?
Second thought:  Canada is a huge country and sparsely populated by world standards, but many, many people live in high rise buildings in inner cities.  Montreal, Toronto, and Vancouver all have densely populated downtown areas.  When traversing the country by train, it seemed like we could go forever without seeing a farmstead or town.
What did I take that I didn’t need?  Dressy clothes.
What did I take that really came in handy?  Gloves.  Glaciers are cold.
Best Buy:  In Vancouver, we walked by an Eddie Bauer store on the way to dinner.  On the way back to the hotel, we stopped in.  They had their End of Summer sale.  Chuck bough a lightweight backpack (day bag) on sale.  N. Bought one, too.  Chuck used it on the way home.
Packing tips:  We are still dedicated to the idea of backpacks for carry-ons.  They just work well and free up your hands.
What is one of the highlights of travel?  Getting home and sleeping in your own bed!
That’s it for the trip across Canada.  SLS

Vancouver, British Columbia

It is the last day of our trip.  Last night I tried and tried to get WiFi but the password wouldn’t work.  Finally I called the front desk.  “Did you change the password?” “No, It is still ‘Amazing.’ “Oh, ‘starwood’Must have been at the last hotel. Sorry.”  Time to go home!
Hotel Blue Hoizon is 31 stories high.  We have had our meals and meetings on the top floor with a beautiful view.  John was yesterday’s presenter and he filled us in on the history on Vancouver. One interesting point was that some of the Chinese immigrants have been here six generations.  That puts a different twist on the current day immigration story.  Another was the agreements that Vancouver has made with the First Nations people (Native Americans). The city land is leased for 999 years. First Nations still own it.  Then we took a short bus tour while he pointed out the different areas. Vancouver has 110,000 people in its downtown high rises which are located at least 80 feet apart so everyone gets some sunlight. For ever 1,000 people there is an acre and a half of park.  They have no slums because they have worked on mixed-income housing throughout the city.  You cannot tell which part of the building is low-income rental and which is condo. They have worked on urban transportation and being bike friendly and not too, car friendly.  Lunch was delicious but took forever! Another bus ride ended at Granville Island where we had time to look at the fresh market, craft shops, broom shops, etc.  The farewell dinner was last night.  We will all miss our New Best Friends for Two Weeks! A & S left early for the airport. N goes with us in an hour or so.  Ready to head home.  Will probably blog one more time after we get home.  It has been a good trip!

Through the Cascade Mountains

Boarded the bus and drove through the Cascade Mountains to Vancouver.  The Cascades are not as high as the Rockies and are seldom rise above the tree line.  However, the gorges or valleys are so deep that the mountains appear higher.  Crops included hay which was irrigated and range land. There was very little traffic until we got with 75 miles of Vancouver.  Traffic picked up.  Along side the road there were many berry patches (looked like raspberries and blue berries), potato patches, other truck crops, and grapes, too.  Our destination was the fishing village of Steveston.  We explored the shops and then had lunch at the Blue Canoe.  Then we visited the Cannery Museum which had been an active salmon cannery from the 1890 until 1930. Our guide gave us the tour and we watched a film about the process of catching fish (Sockeye, coho, pink, chum, and king) all the way through to putting the labels on the cans. It was also a story of who fished (Japanese and First Nation), who owned the factory (whites), who butchered (Chinese), who cleaned them (women),and who put the cans in the dispenser (children 8 - 13).  Interesting!  Back to the bus and to Hotel Blue Horizon.  After a quick check-in, we went to Zefferelli’s for dinner.
We have just started to explore Vancouver but so far we have noticed huge bridges, small houses built on very small lots.  Some houses had front ‘walls’ made of very thick, high hedges.  Tomorrow we will find out more.  

Kamloops, British Columbia

After breakfast we heard a presentation by Kirsten.  She was a talented storyteller and regaled us with tales of Early Canada and the brave people who explored the wild, untamed land.  We trooped to the bus and drove further into Jasper National Park which encompasses 4,200 square miles.  We explored a small island in Pyramid Lake —before others got there.  We moved on to Maligne Canyon which was a roaring river that had cut a deep canyon through limestone and then ate lunch at lodge there. Somewhere along the way we saw a elk with a huge rack and a mother elk and her yong laying along the road. Then we did a drive-by of the Jasper Lodge.  The Queen has stayed there.  Diana and Charles honeymooned there.  Guess who is going to honeymoon there soon?? Then we changed from the local bus to a long-distance bus and hit the road west.  One last impression of Jasper was the increasing number of dead pine trees —victims of the pine bark beetle.  Of course, lots of dead trees puts them at huge risk for fires.  They plan to clear cut around Jasper this winter.  Although the mountains around Jasper were high and rugged, most of the mountains we saw today were tree covered.  We stopped at Mount Robeson for half an hour to walk around. During our five hour bus drive, we went through areas that had had big fires, small fields of alfalfa (irrigated), and signs that indicated hay and cattle operations. Most of the time the rail tracks were beside us as was a river.  Many of the farmhouses looked like double wides or similar module homes. Now we are in Kamloops where the North and South Thompson Rivers join and eventually flow into the Pacific.  We are on Pacific Time.  We are glad to be on the bus and on time. Good Night. 

Jasper National Park.

We arrived at this hotel around 5:30 am today.  We showered and went to breakfast. At 7:45 am the bus left for the Columbia Icefields.  A local guide boarded the bus and explained the geology of the region. We drove 45 minutes before reaching the Welcome Center for the Icefield.  We boarded a specially designed Ice Explorer (the size of a bus, huge balloon-like tires, can climb steep inclines) and headed to the Athabasca Glacier.  Most glaciers come out of icefields, but not all. We were able to get out and walk around on the glacier for 15 minutes.  My gloves felt good.  Returned to the bus, drove to a park and ate a picnic lunch.  We visited Sunwapta Falls, and Athabasca Falls.  Forgot how good the woods smell.  When we returned this afternoon, we learned that the incoming train is getting later and later so we will continue our journey on a bus.  After yesterday’s train experience, we were all relieved.  Off to bed.  It will be a pleasure to lay down and sleep!

Visiting Winnipeg on Saturday

Winnipeg is a city of about 800,000.  We arrived early in the morning and Chuck and I opted to take the guided city tour.  Our guide was a man named Phillip who had his Ph.D. In history so he said it was the Dr. Phil tour.  The area near the train station had converted from an Old Fort to a shopping and entertainment center.  We learned a lot about the Red River and impact its flooding had had on Winnipeg and the whole area.  Then we went to the Provincial Capital Building which was built in time when money was not a factor.  It was truly beautiful and full of Symbolism.  When you walked in, a 5,000 pound black Bison flanked the main limestone staircase.  Parts of the building replicated the dimensions of Solomon’s temple and sure enough, the ark of the covenant was high on the outside of the building.  We could have stayed there all day and learned the secrets.  Next we saw the stately old mansions.  Our next stop was a large English garden complete with sculptures.  The garden included a zoo, but to save time, we drove through a parking lot and from there we could see the treasure of the zoo—-Blizzard, the white Bison.  A white Bison has special spiritual significance to the First Nation people and occurs once in every 200,000 births.  Blizzard has sired two other white bisons.  Our last stop was St. Boniface bascilica. The original stone structure had burned 50 years ago to the day that we were there.  All that remained were three outer limestone walls which were still standing.  The new St. Boniface was built behind it. The empty interior space of the first church served as an outdoor entry courtyard for the second church. When we returned to the train , we saw the Winnipeg Daily paper and there was a story about St. Boniface. Our guide had been the curator for the St. Boniface Museum for 25 years.

On the Train headed West

When we boarded the train, the first thing we confronted was our double cabin.  Our room was 7’ x 5’.  Stacked bunk beds on the left, a two foot walkway, a recessed sink on the right, a W. C. (Toilet) room that was 2’ x 2’.  There was a storage space near the ceiling above the sink (Chuck had to climb the ladder and hang across).  Also a closet which was less than 9” deep (the only saving grace of that was that no one could hide in it!).  We had been instructed that we could each bring two small bags.  Chuck and I each had a backpack and shared a wheeled carry-on.  Our other piece of luggage was checked through to Jasper.  If one person was doing anything —washing their hands for example—the other had to sit on the bed and stay out of the way.  It took some real effort to make it work, but the second day was easier than the first.  By day the beds disappeared and two arm chairs appeared (they folded flat and were under the bottom bunk at night).  There was a shower room for each car.  It was really pretty good.  First you adjusted the temperature and then you punched the button for 30 seconds worth of water.  I think it took me 5 punches to shampoo and shower.
The Dining Car provided excellent food and service.  We ate at the first seating the first day and the second seating the second day.  Entrees included Prime Rib and Rack of Lamb.
When we left Toronto, we went through tall trees on either side of the track for mile after mile.  Once in a while we saw a lake.  Nothing else.  Eventually the prairie started.  Some people called that boring but it was far more interesting to us than all those trees.

Train late to Jasper

First of all, you will note that I missed a couple days.  Just as we were leaving Winnipeg, I blogged on a document because I couldn’t get on the blog.  Tried to paste it this morning and it didn’t work so will blog the first part of the train trip and Winnipeg later.
Upon arriving in Winnipeg, we were on-time —even a little early.  Everyone was celebrating the fact.  Little did we know that that was the end of that! After that we just kept getting further behind.  Freight trains have the right-of-way ALWAYS.  It seemed like we would just be up to speed and then have to pull over.  Sometimes there were two trains in a row.  Some of these freight trains are two miles long, some have 200 cars. Of course, once you get behind, it just builds.  We were suppose to arrive here in Jasper at 1 pm yesterday.  We arrived here at 5 am today.  It started out that we would be 2 hours late, then 4 hours late, etc. until they just didn’t say.  Chuck and I sat in the chairs in our room and slept. Somehow the Stewart missed us when they asked if we wanted the beds put down.  We did get some sleep and we did get here.  Chuck told me that he felt grouchy (I couldn’t tell??).
When we left Winnipeg we were in the prairie.  The fields are immense.  There were many fields of canola, wheat and oats.  Some fields of potatoes, range land, a little alfalfa, soy beans. Chuck was a source of information as many people did know what the crops were or anything about the soils.  We really enjoyed the prairie — a lot more interesting that trees on both sides of the track.
The 

Ready to Head West!

We are sitting in Union Station waiting for our train.  Thought it would be a good opportunity to recap today.  After breakfast, we gathered our carry-ons and headed for the bus.  A local guide, Bruce, boarded the bus and conducted the tour around Toronto.  He was very knowledgeable and fun.  Our first stop was the Distillery District which had fallen into rot and ruin.  About 20 years ago, Toronto looked at the very seedy area and realized that it was an area close to downtown which was rich for development.  Now it sports eating places, shops, space for festivals, and residences.  After more touring, we ended up at the Royal Ontario Museum.  A docent showed us some highlights and then we had lunch.  Chuck and I were the last two through the line. “Do you want tuna salad or tuna salad?” We had tuna salad.
The five of us boarded the Hop On Hop Off bus and took it to the harbor.  A boat ride was included with the Hop On Hop Off ticket.  It was a lovely day and perfect for a 45 minute ride around the harbor. Back on Hop On Hop Off to the next stop and then we walked to the restaurant where we were having dinner.  Enjoyed a pre-dinner glass of wine sitting in the sidewalk cafe.  Dinner was good.  The dessert was a lemon sponge cake that was delicious.  We walked it off when we walked to Union Station.
Today’s learnings.  Toronto grows by 500 people a day.  The population is very young which really hits us when we look around and realize that we are the oldest people in a restaurant, in a shop, on the bus, etc.  The Blacks who immigrated from the US were accepted because they were Protestants. A Black family started and operated the first taxi company in Toronto.  Irish Catholics were not accepted because they were Catholics!  They were discriminated in a fashion similar to the Black sitatuaion in the US.  Toronto experienced such dramatic growth because Montreal (Quebec) made it clear that French was the language.  Businesses and corporate offices moved to Toronto because they preferred English.  All aboard.  Gotta go.  

Greetings from Toronto,

It was after 9 pm when our train arrived in downtown Toronto.  This is a huge city - fourth largest in North America, First is Mexico City, then New York City, and then Los Angeles.  Chuck was here in the early 90’s and couldn’t believe the difference.  The city has many, many new huge skyscraper buildings filled with condo units. Plus they are beautiful buildings.
Today’s lecture was about the forming of Canada from 1700’s  including the building of the railroad which was the carrot offered to British Columbia to get them to join Canada.  Very interesting lecture.  This afternoon the five of us took the Hop On Hop Off bus to tour Toronto. The first challenge was finding where to purchase tickets.  We hopped off to see the CN tower which was built in 1979 and is often used as the symbol of Toronto.  It is a very popular site, hence there was a line for security, a line for tickets, a line for the elevator to go up, and a line to get the elevator down.  The event was very similar to going up in Willis (Sears) tower including that we could have done sky-walking on the outside ledge at the top.  I am sure you will be surprised to learn that we opted out of that!  However, there was a group of five brave young people on the elevator with us when we came down.  Two of the five had just gotten engaged while sky-walking!! Now that was special. We continued our adventure with hopping back on the bus (eventually) and heading to the hotel.
This evening Chuck who always likes a culinary adventure wanted to go to a Moroccoan restaurant, the Sultan’s Tent.  S. Joined us.  They were featuring Summerlicious which is a program that a number of Toronto restaurants participate in.  For one price, you price you pick out an appetizer, entre and dessert.  We each picked a different item in each category and had a great time tasting.  But wait, there was also a belly dancer!  Who could ask for more?
Tonight we pack for three days on the train.  We are each allowed two small bags. We are each taking a backpack and sharing a wheeled carry-on.  We check our other bag through to Jasper.  Should be an adventure.  There is little to no Wi-Fi on the train so the blog will be delayed.
Observations (before I forget them):  there are many, many bike riders in both Montreal and Toronto. Toronto reminds me of Texas—everything is the biggest, the tallest, the fastest, the newest!

Greetings from the train,

I don’t think I have ever blogged while traveling on Canadian rail but here goes.  We are traveling between Montreal and Toronto.  Today is cooler, a little rainy, and cloudy at times.  We started the day with ‘bags out by 7am”.  After breakfast we boarded a bus and traveled a half hour or so to a railway museum.  Upon arrival, we rode a miniature railroad.  A small engine pulled four or fuve cars,  Each car seated four regular people or three Americans.  A car was a backless bench that you straddled.  The track went around the park on a short (thank goodness) trip.  Next we rode in an restored trolley that had run in Montreal.  Then we went inside and toured several restored cars learning about steam engines, diesel, snow blowers, etc.  When the two hour tour finished, we returned via bus to Montreal’s Old Town and a crepe restaurant.  I had crepes with asparagus, ham, and Swiss cheese.  Unfortunately, our table was served after the other tables had finished so we bolted down our food and ran out of the restaurants.  With a local guide, we toured the ‘new’ city by bus.  Montreal is a city of 2 million people.  If you live within city limits, your house has to be constructed of stone or brick.  Outside city limits, it can be made of wood.  That is a law that has been in effect for many years and continues. Arrived at the rail station at 2;45 pm.  By 3:15, we boarded the train and were on our way.  Train is very comfortable.  We get to Toronto about 8:30 pm.  

Hot in Montreal
Our trip started in earnest this morning.  After breakfast, we had a two hour lecture by History Professor Jim Manson.  His two topics were (1) the French Empire in North America and the British Conquest and (2) how building the Canadian rail system was key to forming the country of Canada.  He was an excellent lecturer.  Then another local guide took us on a two-hour walking tour of the Old Town area including the Nortre Dame Bascillica (huge - seats 3500 with double balconies and elaborate wood carvings and Oh, Celine Dion was married there ) and the Bank of Montreal which is the oldest bank still operating in Montreal.   Around 1 pm, we stopped at a cafe for lunch.  Choice of spaghetti or chicken.  Tiramisu for dessert.  An option for the afternoon was a boat ride around the harbor.  Before the St. Lawrence Seaway was completed in 1959, Montreal was the second largest seaport on the East Coast.  It has since transitioned into a container seaport and they have worked at making the harbor into a fun, touristy place.  One of the interesting sites along the harbor was the Habitat 67 designed by Moshe Safdis (sp) for the 1967 World’s Fair.. It was a design of cantilevered pre-made ‘boxes’, randomly arranged for affordable housing.  A unit recently sold for $1.2 million.  Good design and great location.  When the ride ended, I voted for a taxi ride.  Chuck —ever the cheerleader—encouraged me to buck up and walk UP to the hotel on the cobblestones and in the HOT and SUNNY weather. “I think I can, I think I can.”  Eventually made it back but totally melted. Must stop and pack our bags for an early departure. 

Greetings from Montreal,

Our 10 am AirCanada direct flight from Chicago to Montreal was uneventful—the best kind.  We used the voucher provided and took a taxi into City Center.  We were a little confused by the Chinese script on the hotel and then discovered that we are one block from Chinatown.  Will explore that later.  The hotel, however, is a standard Holiday Inn.  We are traveling with N.  Not long after our arrival, S and A from Minneapolis joined us.  It will be fun to have friends on this adventure.
Our Road Scholar group (38 travelers) met in the lobby at 5:45 pm.  We then went on a ‘very easy walk’ (their description of a 15 minute walk uphill, on cobblestones, on a very hot day) to a restaurant in Old Town.  The restaurant was an old steak house on second floor.  Very good food.  Walked back to the hotel.  We had a short meeting where everyone introduced themselves and told how many Road Scholar trips they had been on.  The winner had been on 19 trips.  This is our second.  I’m tired.  This has been a long day.  Good Night!