A Nice, Leisurely Pace

This is our last day sailing.  It was nice to be able to take our time this morning.  We had breakfast, started packing, went through two locks (one 109 feet and one 72 feet), and attended a cooking lesson. Chef Nuno Ribeiro demonstrated making Pasteis de Nata —the puff pastry cups filled with custard and baked.  After lunch we got on the bus and drove to Castelo Rodrigo which is another old walled village.  This one specialized in almond products (almonds which were salted, sugared, with chocolate, with five spice, etc. plus almond liqueurs, etc).  They also sold cork products—trivets, coasters, coin purses, purses, jewelry, etc.  (We had a program about cork yesterday.  Cork is important to Portugal, but one has to be patient.  After a tree is planted, it is 25 years before the first harvest of its bark, followed by 9 years before the next harvest.). The village was steep.  A walking tour was offered. N and I walked the first half.  Chuck preservered and walked the whole route.  Maria drove carefully along the route back to the bus.  Once again there were steep drop offs and beautiful vistas.  The landscape was more rugged with large rock outcropping, many more olive trees, fewer vineyards, lots of rocks walls and terraces, and a few sheep. We bid Maria farewell.  Tomorrow we will have a Spanish bus and driver.
When we were In Porto, we saw a group of young people dressed in black each wearing a big black woolen cape. We were told that traditionally university students dressed in black —kind of a rite of passage.  Some even prided themselves on never washing/cleaning the cape.  They were referred to as ‘the stinky ones.’  One evening some male students called a “TUNA” group (no connection to fish) entertained. There were eight of them, playing an accordion, guitar, etc., and singing.  They were cute and certainly not stinky.
Another night a group (male and female) played instruments and sang Faldo—melancholy music.  Chuck compares it to American Blues only a different style.
Today the weather was clear and sunny, but a little cool.  Before we came, we studied the temps here with envy.  Once we got here, the weather has been cooler than home.  But dry is good!

Cold and wet

Before we left home, we had weather/coat conversations:  Do I need the zip-in lining for my blue coat or should I just take my puffy coat or do I need gloves?? The answer was “Of course not” Wrong! Today was cool and just as we started for the bus, it started to rain.  By the time we arrived at lunch, we had that cold between the shoulder blades feel and dampness of feet.
From PinHao, we drove the back roads UP the mountains and winding around.  There were very sharp drop-offs on the right side (of 1,000 to 1,500 feet), no guard rails, and steep vineyard terraces on either side. If you were prone to car sickness, it was not a good day —enough said.  We eventually reached Mateus Palace.  It is the beautiful palace pictured on the Mateus wine bottle. (If you came of drinking age in the 60’s or 70’s, you know the bottle.  It was shaped like a canteen and deep maroon color.) Mateus was never made there - only pictured on the bottle. We toured part of the Palace.  The family still lives in part of it.  It is surrounded by beautiful gardens modeled after the gardens of Versailles in Paris.  We sloshed back to the bus.
We traveled a short way to Enoteca Quinta de Avessada and were greeted with a small taste of muscotel wine and a couple starters.  This was another winery owned by a family of long standing.  Two musicians entertained: an accordion player and a drummer.  They had one basic tune which they played over and over. (Think player piano with one roll.). We filed into a nice dining room and were served a white wine and a red wine, starters: roasted pork pieces, cod fritters, sausage.  Then we had a soup and then a stew of veal and carrots with potatoes and cabbage.  Of course there was bread.  There was a dessert buffet with creme brûlée, pears poached in port, chocolate something (was gone by the time I got there), cheese and fruit, layered cake.  This was followed by grappa and coffee. The young man who started this usually introduced each course with some commentary.  I think he loved entertaining and really wanted to be a stand-up comic.  Eventually we trooped back to the bus and napped on the way to the ship as Maria guided the bus back pass the thousands of acres of grapevines and olive trees.  

From the Hills of Portugal

Portugal was not involved in WWII and therefore, did not receive the influx of cash to rebuild.  Their new roads were not built until they joined the European Union.  We have heard nothing but glowing  remarks about the EU. With better roads, easier money, and better trade, came a more prosperous economy and tourism. We have noticed that every town seems to have a tower or castle.
Today we took a bus to Lamego which was touted as a historical and religious capital.  The church at the top of the hill had a spectacular interior.  The ceiling looked like a Wedgewood china platter —a blue background with white plaster decoration—unlike anything I have every seen.  The front and side altars were aglow with gold. But wait—to walk from this shrine to the cathedral downtown, you had to go down 700 steps.  The steps were in sets of 10 or so with a landing that had tiles depicting the life of Mary, then another set of steps. (True Catholic pilgrims climb up the steps in order to ask the Virgin Mary to rid them of their afflictions.)  The bus took us to the top and walking down was an option that we did not choose.  We rode back down, did some shopping, had coffee, walked around, and came back.
After returning to the ship, we set sail.  Went through a 91 foot lock.  Sailed on to Pinhao.  Took the bus on a very short ride to Quinta do Ronda. A guide took us out into the vineyard and explained their process for making port.  This vineyard was started in 1588.   We sampled a Pink Port and a Ruby Port. Back to the bus and the ship to get ready for the captain’s dinner tonight.
A quote from today:  “In Portugal, wine is king, but olives are the queen.” Olive trees are used as borders between vineyards and fields. “You can’t make money off fences, but you can from olives.” At dinner, there is always a small bowl of olives.  My three traveling companions are quite competitive in their olive consumption.  In addition to olive trees, we have seen many orange trees heavy with fruit.  There are also almond trees about with almonds a frequent ingredient in foods.  

Wine, Wine, Wine

This morning was cool with fog/mist.  Maria met us with the bus and drove us a half hour to the Avaleda Winery which has been owned by the same family for over 300 years.  We started by walking UP through a 25 acre garden.  The garden was at its height of glory with many blooming plants: azaleas, cherry trees, bridal wreath, rhododendrons, etc. There was a small pen of pygmy goats, a pond with two large white swans protecting their nest, and noisy peacocks on the roofs. Our guide had worked there for 31 years and knew many interesting details.  We tasted their famous green  (young white) wine which tastes similar to Pinot Grigio with hints of lemon.  Also tasted a rose wine.  Back to the bus and the short drive back to the boat.  We left after 1:00 pm.  About an hour later we passed through the deepest lock in Europe.  It is 114 feet deep and built between 1964 and 1971.  The dam provides power and flood control to the area.  The afternoon was sunny and a wonderful day to sit on the upper deck and watch the terraced countryside slide by. We docked at Regua and immediately walked (climbed) to the Duoro Museum (four flights of steps outside and three flights inside).  Enjoyed a lecture on the wine industry of the Duoro Valley.  Of course, we had to taste a red wine which Chuck pronounced, ‘very good.’  Time to return to the ship and dinner.
P. S. No pastries, just wine.  

Sailing up the Duoro River

This morning we left the ship at 8:30 am and rode the bus for an hour.  Our local guide, Maggie (44), is with us for the week.  She is a Portuguese who was born in Angola and then ousted from that country when Angola was no longer a Portuguese colony.  After surviving that (some family members did not), life is good if you have a roof over your head and food in your belly! Our driver for the week is Maria (early 30’s). She can manhandle that bus with the best of them! We drove through the countryside to Guimaraes which is where Portugal was born.  We saw re-built buildings from the 11th and 12th century.  The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so much money and effort was put into restoring/preserving the history of the area. (After Rockford’s long winter, we so appreciate and enjoy the blooming trees, flowers, leaves, etc.). The bus left us at the top of the hill and our walking tour of the town was down from there. We had time for coffee before meeting the bus and heading back.  The ship finally left the dock at 1:00 pm.  We headed for the Atlantic and the mouth of the Douro (less than 1/2 mile) before turning around and heading upstream.  It is a beautiful sunny day so we sat on the top deck, read a book, and watched the countryside slide by.  We went through the first lock — a drop of 45 feet.  That is always fun to watch.  This ship is probably 3/4 as wide as the other river boats we have been on.  However, when going through the lock we were snug up to the walls. That certainly made me understand why our cabin is smaller.  Later this afternoon our cruise director, Manuela, gave a presentation on Portuguese political history, education, and economy.  Very interesting.  Wanted to add a food note: we have consumed lots of fish and pastries.  

Exploring Oporto and Tasting Port

Wednesday, THE 25th of APRIL!
I can hear a marching band in the parade.  Today is a bank holiday and celebration of the end of the Salazar dictatorship and the beginning of democracy in Portugal.  Natives say, “the 25th of April” just like we say “ the Fourth of July.” Stores were not open and there was very little traffic when we were out and about this morning.
We started our day with a panoramic bus tour of Oporto.  Many old building are covered with beautiful tile. We saw a train station that used to be a convent or monastery.  The interior had 20,000 tiles on the walls with beautiful scenes. In the mid-1800’s religious orders were outlawed so it is common to see convents that are now police stations, etc.  Also saw one of the top bookstores in the world—Livaria Lello—which is said to be the inspiration for J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter book series.  It is very picturesque with extremely high ceilings.  Towards the back there is a short flight of steps which leads to a landing, branches left and right for short spiral staircases which meet on a landing and continue left and right for two more short spiral staircases.  Now you are on the balcony. M. Found a cookbook of Portuguese recipes written in English. She plans to entertain us all when we get home. Then we went next door for Coffee and another pastry (surprise).  Eventually we made it back to the ship.
The Duoro River is down in the valley between two cities, Gia and Oporto.  The terrain is hilly so you are either walking up a hill or down a hill.  Fortunately, we have good buses and good drivers.
This afternoon, we toured the Taylor Fladgate Winery (not to be confused with USA’s Taylor brand). This winery has been owned by the same family for 325 years.  Sampled delicious white port (similar to sherry) and 2012 vintage port (28 Euros/bottle). The weather has been very nice—sunny and 72.

Traveling to the Douro Serenity

Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Suitcases out at 6:30 am —so they were packed last night.  Had breakfast and were on the road by 8:00 am.  Our first stop was the walled town of Obidos.  The town is completely walled in in the Middle Ages, but of course, it is a major tourist stop now.  We walked the town, stopped to make purchases, had some coffee, and a freshly baked bun.  The bun was heavy (very heavy) and had lots of nuts, kind of sweet, unlike anything I had ever eaten.  Their specialty was a cherry liquer that was served in a chocolate cup with a toothpick skewered cherry floated on top.  Ten am was a little early for liquer, but the serving was very small.  Chuck drank the liquer; I ate the chocolate cup.  The town also had many souvenirs of cork, embroidery work, tiles, and roosters (their good luck animal).  The streets were extremely narrow—add a few cars and a small garbage truck—like playing dodgeball!  Back in the bus.  The countryside was filled with crops that were coming up —looked like cabbage, etc., greenhouses, and rows of plants.  Also saw sheep and small goats.  The next town was Nazare where we had lunch.  Chuck had octopus and quinoa, M had shrimp and rice, I had grilled cheese and fruit.  I was a little surprised when served Brie with honey and walnuts, topped with raspberries!.We were right on the Atlantic.  Back in the bus for a couple hours before we arrived at Oporto where our ship was docked.  By 4:30 we were checked in, and in our rooms.  This ship is smaller than most river cruise boats.  Our room is compact! Dinner was delicious.  Chuck ordered Oxtail stew.  Imagine his surprise when it was an oxtail mixture served in a filo wrap.  The fish was delicious.  Good wine, good company, and good port. 

Sightseeing in Lisbon

Monday, April 23, 2018

Holy Smokes!  I was half way through breakfast this morning when it suddenly hit me that I did not blog yesterday. I really got into a good book and was so intent on finishing it (I did) that I forgot all about blogging.
Yesterday (Sunday) started out with a panoramic city tour of Lisbon.  Our hotel is high on a hill above  the waterfront. (The River Tagus flows by Lisbon on its way to the Atlantic).  The Belem Tower is an castle/fort for defense was our first stop.  We also stopped to have Pasteis de Belem—a custard tart in a puff pastry crust served with a packet of cinnamon and a packet of powdered sugar.  Two tarts are a serving.  Delicious, but messy.  We were standing while eating, balancing the pastry, sprinkling sugar on it.  Our shoes and fronts looked like we had encountered a powdered sugar explosion!.  Drove around the city center past where we had stayed when we were here ten years ago.  Heard about Portugal’s explorations and colonies. Finally back to the hotel.  Chuck and I walked down the hill to explore the area where the hotel is.  After coffee and a snack we walked back UP the hill - puff, puff.  Ate dinner in the hotel with N and M.  Lisbon loves fish and seafood so that is what we had for dinner.  Chuck wanted to try their dried cod and was satisfied with it.  Finished our meal with lemon Sorbet.  Then back to my book.
Today we took a scenic bus tour of the Poruguese coast along the Atlantic Ocean.  Stopped in Sinatra and toured the town castle. The castle was built over several centuries and included 100 steps (each a different height, of course), beautiful ornate ceilings, and stories.  It was good to have a guide explaining the history of the building.  We rewarded ourselves with an almond puff pastry which is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream floated on a dip of whipped cream. Yum, Yum.  Back on the bus and on to the quiet fishing village (and major tourist stop) of Cascais.  Chuck enjoyed the grilled sardines that he had been looking forward to.  N & M had Seafood Rice served in a tomato broth.  It contained all kinds of seafood in their shells.  It was delicious and was suppose to feed two —more like four.  After walking around for a bit, we headed back to the bus, drove along the Atlantic coast, then the river, and back to the hotel.  Must tell you that it was 76 degrees with sunshine.  Flowers blooming everywhere. Time to pack for tomorrow.  

Arriving in Portugal

Saturday, April 21, 2018
After an overnight flight from Chicago to Madrid, we boarded a short flight to Lisbon.  The only unusual occurrence was that our breakfast (served about four hours after our dinner) was a plain yogurt, a cold bun with meat and cheese, and a fun size Milky Way.  Never had a candy bar for breakfast, but not a bad idea.
It was raining in Lisbon when we landed.  We waited a long time for luggage and you guessed it —it was very wet.  Fortunately, we pack in large plastic ziploc bags and packing cubes so our things were dry.  We are now trying to dry out the suitcases.
We are staying at the Pestana in the middle of the city.  The original part was built as a palace in the late 1800’s. There have been many additions, and restorations since then.  Our room opens onto a garden with lavender flowers (from a distance they look like lilacs or phlox, but are neither), and other beautiful flowers blooming. Of course, there are statues, too.
The main point of this entry is just to let you know that we arrived.  Two friends, N and M, are traveling with us.  After a Welcome Dinner this evening and a good night’s sleep, we will all be a little better.