Reflections on the Canadian trip.

We all made it home safely and without major ‘incidents.’ That is a lot to be thankful for.
First, when I described our double cabin on the train I forgot to mention that the ladder to the top bunk was unmovable and opposite the bathroom door which made the squeeeeze even tighter.  How could I forget that?
Second thought:  Canada is a huge country and sparsely populated by world standards, but many, many people live in high rise buildings in inner cities.  Montreal, Toronto, and Vancouver all have densely populated downtown areas.  When traversing the country by train, it seemed like we could go forever without seeing a farmstead or town.
What did I take that I didn’t need?  Dressy clothes.
What did I take that really came in handy?  Gloves.  Glaciers are cold.
Best Buy:  In Vancouver, we walked by an Eddie Bauer store on the way to dinner.  On the way back to the hotel, we stopped in.  They had their End of Summer sale.  Chuck bough a lightweight backpack (day bag) on sale.  N. Bought one, too.  Chuck used it on the way home.
Packing tips:  We are still dedicated to the idea of backpacks for carry-ons.  They just work well and free up your hands.
What is one of the highlights of travel?  Getting home and sleeping in your own bed!
That’s it for the trip across Canada.  SLS

Vancouver, British Columbia

It is the last day of our trip.  Last night I tried and tried to get WiFi but the password wouldn’t work.  Finally I called the front desk.  “Did you change the password?” “No, It is still ‘Amazing.’ “Oh, ‘starwood’Must have been at the last hotel. Sorry.”  Time to go home!
Hotel Blue Hoizon is 31 stories high.  We have had our meals and meetings on the top floor with a beautiful view.  John was yesterday’s presenter and he filled us in on the history on Vancouver. One interesting point was that some of the Chinese immigrants have been here six generations.  That puts a different twist on the current day immigration story.  Another was the agreements that Vancouver has made with the First Nations people (Native Americans). The city land is leased for 999 years. First Nations still own it.  Then we took a short bus tour while he pointed out the different areas. Vancouver has 110,000 people in its downtown high rises which are located at least 80 feet apart so everyone gets some sunlight. For ever 1,000 people there is an acre and a half of park.  They have no slums because they have worked on mixed-income housing throughout the city.  You cannot tell which part of the building is low-income rental and which is condo. They have worked on urban transportation and being bike friendly and not too, car friendly.  Lunch was delicious but took forever! Another bus ride ended at Granville Island where we had time to look at the fresh market, craft shops, broom shops, etc.  The farewell dinner was last night.  We will all miss our New Best Friends for Two Weeks! A & S left early for the airport. N goes with us in an hour or so.  Ready to head home.  Will probably blog one more time after we get home.  It has been a good trip!

Through the Cascade Mountains

Boarded the bus and drove through the Cascade Mountains to Vancouver.  The Cascades are not as high as the Rockies and are seldom rise above the tree line.  However, the gorges or valleys are so deep that the mountains appear higher.  Crops included hay which was irrigated and range land. There was very little traffic until we got with 75 miles of Vancouver.  Traffic picked up.  Along side the road there were many berry patches (looked like raspberries and blue berries), potato patches, other truck crops, and grapes, too.  Our destination was the fishing village of Steveston.  We explored the shops and then had lunch at the Blue Canoe.  Then we visited the Cannery Museum which had been an active salmon cannery from the 1890 until 1930. Our guide gave us the tour and we watched a film about the process of catching fish (Sockeye, coho, pink, chum, and king) all the way through to putting the labels on the cans. It was also a story of who fished (Japanese and First Nation), who owned the factory (whites), who butchered (Chinese), who cleaned them (women),and who put the cans in the dispenser (children 8 - 13).  Interesting!  Back to the bus and to Hotel Blue Horizon.  After a quick check-in, we went to Zefferelli’s for dinner.
We have just started to explore Vancouver but so far we have noticed huge bridges, small houses built on very small lots.  Some houses had front ‘walls’ made of very thick, high hedges.  Tomorrow we will find out more.  

Kamloops, British Columbia

After breakfast we heard a presentation by Kirsten.  She was a talented storyteller and regaled us with tales of Early Canada and the brave people who explored the wild, untamed land.  We trooped to the bus and drove further into Jasper National Park which encompasses 4,200 square miles.  We explored a small island in Pyramid Lake —before others got there.  We moved on to Maligne Canyon which was a roaring river that had cut a deep canyon through limestone and then ate lunch at lodge there. Somewhere along the way we saw a elk with a huge rack and a mother elk and her yong laying along the road. Then we did a drive-by of the Jasper Lodge.  The Queen has stayed there.  Diana and Charles honeymooned there.  Guess who is going to honeymoon there soon?? Then we changed from the local bus to a long-distance bus and hit the road west.  One last impression of Jasper was the increasing number of dead pine trees —victims of the pine bark beetle.  Of course, lots of dead trees puts them at huge risk for fires.  They plan to clear cut around Jasper this winter.  Although the mountains around Jasper were high and rugged, most of the mountains we saw today were tree covered.  We stopped at Mount Robeson for half an hour to walk around. During our five hour bus drive, we went through areas that had had big fires, small fields of alfalfa (irrigated), and signs that indicated hay and cattle operations. Most of the time the rail tracks were beside us as was a river.  Many of the farmhouses looked like double wides or similar module homes. Now we are in Kamloops where the North and South Thompson Rivers join and eventually flow into the Pacific.  We are on Pacific Time.  We are glad to be on the bus and on time. Good Night. 

Jasper National Park.

We arrived at this hotel around 5:30 am today.  We showered and went to breakfast. At 7:45 am the bus left for the Columbia Icefields.  A local guide boarded the bus and explained the geology of the region. We drove 45 minutes before reaching the Welcome Center for the Icefield.  We boarded a specially designed Ice Explorer (the size of a bus, huge balloon-like tires, can climb steep inclines) and headed to the Athabasca Glacier.  Most glaciers come out of icefields, but not all. We were able to get out and walk around on the glacier for 15 minutes.  My gloves felt good.  Returned to the bus, drove to a park and ate a picnic lunch.  We visited Sunwapta Falls, and Athabasca Falls.  Forgot how good the woods smell.  When we returned this afternoon, we learned that the incoming train is getting later and later so we will continue our journey on a bus.  After yesterday’s train experience, we were all relieved.  Off to bed.  It will be a pleasure to lay down and sleep!

Visiting Winnipeg on Saturday

Winnipeg is a city of about 800,000.  We arrived early in the morning and Chuck and I opted to take the guided city tour.  Our guide was a man named Phillip who had his Ph.D. In history so he said it was the Dr. Phil tour.  The area near the train station had converted from an Old Fort to a shopping and entertainment center.  We learned a lot about the Red River and impact its flooding had had on Winnipeg and the whole area.  Then we went to the Provincial Capital Building which was built in time when money was not a factor.  It was truly beautiful and full of Symbolism.  When you walked in, a 5,000 pound black Bison flanked the main limestone staircase.  Parts of the building replicated the dimensions of Solomon’s temple and sure enough, the ark of the covenant was high on the outside of the building.  We could have stayed there all day and learned the secrets.  Next we saw the stately old mansions.  Our next stop was a large English garden complete with sculptures.  The garden included a zoo, but to save time, we drove through a parking lot and from there we could see the treasure of the zoo—-Blizzard, the white Bison.  A white Bison has special spiritual significance to the First Nation people and occurs once in every 200,000 births.  Blizzard has sired two other white bisons.  Our last stop was St. Boniface bascilica. The original stone structure had burned 50 years ago to the day that we were there.  All that remained were three outer limestone walls which were still standing.  The new St. Boniface was built behind it. The empty interior space of the first church served as an outdoor entry courtyard for the second church. When we returned to the train , we saw the Winnipeg Daily paper and there was a story about St. Boniface. Our guide had been the curator for the St. Boniface Museum for 25 years.

On the Train headed West

When we boarded the train, the first thing we confronted was our double cabin.  Our room was 7’ x 5’.  Stacked bunk beds on the left, a two foot walkway, a recessed sink on the right, a W. C. (Toilet) room that was 2’ x 2’.  There was a storage space near the ceiling above the sink (Chuck had to climb the ladder and hang across).  Also a closet which was less than 9” deep (the only saving grace of that was that no one could hide in it!).  We had been instructed that we could each bring two small bags.  Chuck and I each had a backpack and shared a wheeled carry-on.  Our other piece of luggage was checked through to Jasper.  If one person was doing anything —washing their hands for example—the other had to sit on the bed and stay out of the way.  It took some real effort to make it work, but the second day was easier than the first.  By day the beds disappeared and two arm chairs appeared (they folded flat and were under the bottom bunk at night).  There was a shower room for each car.  It was really pretty good.  First you adjusted the temperature and then you punched the button for 30 seconds worth of water.  I think it took me 5 punches to shampoo and shower.
The Dining Car provided excellent food and service.  We ate at the first seating the first day and the second seating the second day.  Entrees included Prime Rib and Rack of Lamb.
When we left Toronto, we went through tall trees on either side of the track for mile after mile.  Once in a while we saw a lake.  Nothing else.  Eventually the prairie started.  Some people called that boring but it was far more interesting to us than all those trees.

Train late to Jasper

First of all, you will note that I missed a couple days.  Just as we were leaving Winnipeg, I blogged on a document because I couldn’t get on the blog.  Tried to paste it this morning and it didn’t work so will blog the first part of the train trip and Winnipeg later.
Upon arriving in Winnipeg, we were on-time —even a little early.  Everyone was celebrating the fact.  Little did we know that that was the end of that! After that we just kept getting further behind.  Freight trains have the right-of-way ALWAYS.  It seemed like we would just be up to speed and then have to pull over.  Sometimes there were two trains in a row.  Some of these freight trains are two miles long, some have 200 cars. Of course, once you get behind, it just builds.  We were suppose to arrive here in Jasper at 1 pm yesterday.  We arrived here at 5 am today.  It started out that we would be 2 hours late, then 4 hours late, etc. until they just didn’t say.  Chuck and I sat in the chairs in our room and slept. Somehow the Stewart missed us when they asked if we wanted the beds put down.  We did get some sleep and we did get here.  Chuck told me that he felt grouchy (I couldn’t tell??).
When we left Winnipeg we were in the prairie.  The fields are immense.  There were many fields of canola, wheat and oats.  Some fields of potatoes, range land, a little alfalfa, soy beans. Chuck was a source of information as many people did know what the crops were or anything about the soils.  We really enjoyed the prairie — a lot more interesting that trees on both sides of the track.
The 

Ready to Head West!

We are sitting in Union Station waiting for our train.  Thought it would be a good opportunity to recap today.  After breakfast, we gathered our carry-ons and headed for the bus.  A local guide, Bruce, boarded the bus and conducted the tour around Toronto.  He was very knowledgeable and fun.  Our first stop was the Distillery District which had fallen into rot and ruin.  About 20 years ago, Toronto looked at the very seedy area and realized that it was an area close to downtown which was rich for development.  Now it sports eating places, shops, space for festivals, and residences.  After more touring, we ended up at the Royal Ontario Museum.  A docent showed us some highlights and then we had lunch.  Chuck and I were the last two through the line. “Do you want tuna salad or tuna salad?” We had tuna salad.
The five of us boarded the Hop On Hop Off bus and took it to the harbor.  A boat ride was included with the Hop On Hop Off ticket.  It was a lovely day and perfect for a 45 minute ride around the harbor. Back on Hop On Hop Off to the next stop and then we walked to the restaurant where we were having dinner.  Enjoyed a pre-dinner glass of wine sitting in the sidewalk cafe.  Dinner was good.  The dessert was a lemon sponge cake that was delicious.  We walked it off when we walked to Union Station.
Today’s learnings.  Toronto grows by 500 people a day.  The population is very young which really hits us when we look around and realize that we are the oldest people in a restaurant, in a shop, on the bus, etc.  The Blacks who immigrated from the US were accepted because they were Protestants. A Black family started and operated the first taxi company in Toronto.  Irish Catholics were not accepted because they were Catholics!  They were discriminated in a fashion similar to the Black sitatuaion in the US.  Toronto experienced such dramatic growth because Montreal (Quebec) made it clear that French was the language.  Businesses and corporate offices moved to Toronto because they preferred English.  All aboard.  Gotta go.  

Greetings from Toronto,

It was after 9 pm when our train arrived in downtown Toronto.  This is a huge city - fourth largest in North America, First is Mexico City, then New York City, and then Los Angeles.  Chuck was here in the early 90’s and couldn’t believe the difference.  The city has many, many new huge skyscraper buildings filled with condo units. Plus they are beautiful buildings.
Today’s lecture was about the forming of Canada from 1700’s  including the building of the railroad which was the carrot offered to British Columbia to get them to join Canada.  Very interesting lecture.  This afternoon the five of us took the Hop On Hop Off bus to tour Toronto. The first challenge was finding where to purchase tickets.  We hopped off to see the CN tower which was built in 1979 and is often used as the symbol of Toronto.  It is a very popular site, hence there was a line for security, a line for tickets, a line for the elevator to go up, and a line to get the elevator down.  The event was very similar to going up in Willis (Sears) tower including that we could have done sky-walking on the outside ledge at the top.  I am sure you will be surprised to learn that we opted out of that!  However, there was a group of five brave young people on the elevator with us when we came down.  Two of the five had just gotten engaged while sky-walking!! Now that was special. We continued our adventure with hopping back on the bus (eventually) and heading to the hotel.
This evening Chuck who always likes a culinary adventure wanted to go to a Moroccoan restaurant, the Sultan’s Tent.  S. Joined us.  They were featuring Summerlicious which is a program that a number of Toronto restaurants participate in.  For one price, you price you pick out an appetizer, entre and dessert.  We each picked a different item in each category and had a great time tasting.  But wait, there was also a belly dancer!  Who could ask for more?
Tonight we pack for three days on the train.  We are each allowed two small bags. We are each taking a backpack and sharing a wheeled carry-on.  We check our other bag through to Jasper.  Should be an adventure.  There is little to no Wi-Fi on the train so the blog will be delayed.
Observations (before I forget them):  there are many, many bike riders in both Montreal and Toronto. Toronto reminds me of Texas—everything is the biggest, the tallest, the fastest, the newest!

Greetings from the train,

I don’t think I have ever blogged while traveling on Canadian rail but here goes.  We are traveling between Montreal and Toronto.  Today is cooler, a little rainy, and cloudy at times.  We started the day with ‘bags out by 7am”.  After breakfast we boarded a bus and traveled a half hour or so to a railway museum.  Upon arrival, we rode a miniature railroad.  A small engine pulled four or fuve cars,  Each car seated four regular people or three Americans.  A car was a backless bench that you straddled.  The track went around the park on a short (thank goodness) trip.  Next we rode in an restored trolley that had run in Montreal.  Then we went inside and toured several restored cars learning about steam engines, diesel, snow blowers, etc.  When the two hour tour finished, we returned via bus to Montreal’s Old Town and a crepe restaurant.  I had crepes with asparagus, ham, and Swiss cheese.  Unfortunately, our table was served after the other tables had finished so we bolted down our food and ran out of the restaurants.  With a local guide, we toured the ‘new’ city by bus.  Montreal is a city of 2 million people.  If you live within city limits, your house has to be constructed of stone or brick.  Outside city limits, it can be made of wood.  That is a law that has been in effect for many years and continues. Arrived at the rail station at 2;45 pm.  By 3:15, we boarded the train and were on our way.  Train is very comfortable.  We get to Toronto about 8:30 pm.  

Hot in Montreal
Our trip started in earnest this morning.  After breakfast, we had a two hour lecture by History Professor Jim Manson.  His two topics were (1) the French Empire in North America and the British Conquest and (2) how building the Canadian rail system was key to forming the country of Canada.  He was an excellent lecturer.  Then another local guide took us on a two-hour walking tour of the Old Town area including the Nortre Dame Bascillica (huge - seats 3500 with double balconies and elaborate wood carvings and Oh, Celine Dion was married there ) and the Bank of Montreal which is the oldest bank still operating in Montreal.   Around 1 pm, we stopped at a cafe for lunch.  Choice of spaghetti or chicken.  Tiramisu for dessert.  An option for the afternoon was a boat ride around the harbor.  Before the St. Lawrence Seaway was completed in 1959, Montreal was the second largest seaport on the East Coast.  It has since transitioned into a container seaport and they have worked at making the harbor into a fun, touristy place.  One of the interesting sites along the harbor was the Habitat 67 designed by Moshe Safdis (sp) for the 1967 World’s Fair.. It was a design of cantilevered pre-made ‘boxes’, randomly arranged for affordable housing.  A unit recently sold for $1.2 million.  Good design and great location.  When the ride ended, I voted for a taxi ride.  Chuck —ever the cheerleader—encouraged me to buck up and walk UP to the hotel on the cobblestones and in the HOT and SUNNY weather. “I think I can, I think I can.”  Eventually made it back but totally melted. Must stop and pack our bags for an early departure. 

Greetings from Montreal,

Our 10 am AirCanada direct flight from Chicago to Montreal was uneventful—the best kind.  We used the voucher provided and took a taxi into City Center.  We were a little confused by the Chinese script on the hotel and then discovered that we are one block from Chinatown.  Will explore that later.  The hotel, however, is a standard Holiday Inn.  We are traveling with N.  Not long after our arrival, S and A from Minneapolis joined us.  It will be fun to have friends on this adventure.
Our Road Scholar group (38 travelers) met in the lobby at 5:45 pm.  We then went on a ‘very easy walk’ (their description of a 15 minute walk uphill, on cobblestones, on a very hot day) to a restaurant in Old Town.  The restaurant was an old steak house on second floor.  Very good food.  Walked back to the hotel.  We had a short meeting where everyone introduced themselves and told how many Road Scholar trips they had been on.  The winner had been on 19 trips.  This is our second.  I’m tired.  This has been a long day.  Good Night!

Home again

N. Asked our tour director for a restaurant recommendation for our last night in Spain.  She recommended Pimento Verde (the green Pepper).  It was an easy walk.  We were greeted warmly to a very clean small cafe.  M and I had a dish with cod, peppers, onions, and garlic in tomato sauce.  It was the most delicious main dish of the whole trip.  Chuck had a cod omelet for a starter.  His main was Squid in Squid Ink—Black chunks of Squid in Black sauce.  He enjoys culinary adventures and was glad that he had experienced the squid.  N had shrimp and vegetables which she enjoyed.  That dinner was a lovely way to end our Spanish trip.
We left the hotel in Madrid at 8:30 am yesterday (Thursday).  Traffic was heavy.  We were glad we were not driving.  At check in, the agent told us that we were flying out of Terminal S. “When you get there, look for your gate assignment.” The signs indicated that it was 23 minutes to Terminal S (walking, train ride, escalator, etc.).  We got there and no gate had been posted and Terminal S had 50 gates.  We kept walking. By 11:00 am, the signs were blinking that our flight was boarding. We found our flight at Gate 45.  All that time, we never sat down except to have a half cup of coffee. It was a relief to be on the plane.  After we boarded the bus for Rockford, the heavens opened and it poured. Cleared by the time we got to Rockford.  Wonderful to be home to blooming trees, green grass, early flowers, and leaves.
Reflections:  We all wished that we had packed some warmer clothes. Even our tour guides were surprised by the cooler temperatures.  Chuck called this the ‘trip of the black (lamb’s wool) sweater.’
When he didn’t have it on, he wished he did.
All in all, it was a wonderful trip.  We traveled with good people and met many nice people, but it always good to be home.

Madrid, Madrid

Today started with breakfast in the hotel.  We had to rush to leave by 8:30 am because there was a parade today - honoring when Spain revolted against Napoleonic rule.  Shops were closed and so were businesses. Are you counting?  Everything was closed in Portugal on April 25.  May 1 was Labor Day and shops were closed.  Today was May 2nd and shops were closed.  Of course, restaurants and souvenir shops were open. 

 We had a four hour city tour.  Madrid is a beautiful city with large green areas. It is about the size of Chicago.  We also saw the outside of cathedrals, the Royal Palace, many museums, etc. The day is sunny and in the high 60’s.  We were back by 12:30 pm. 

The four of us when to a Mexican cafe for lunch (Madrid like most international cities has many different cuisines.} Chuck had killer tacos.  He couldn’t figure out if they were named that because of all the red onions or because they were difficult to eat.  Also had quesadillas with hamon (Spanish ham).  M. Bought nachos for all.  Chuck and I took a taxi and went to see Picasso’s Guernica at Centro de Arte Reina Sofia.  Granddaughter, THB, had studied the painting and wanted us to see it.  It was huge—about 10 foot high and 25 feet long.  It was a real experience to see the painting in the presence of many students.  Our guides have mentioned the significance of the work depicting Spain’s civil war several times.  It was housed in New York until after Dictator Franco died.  Picasso’s will declared that it could be brought back to Spain after the end of the Dictatorship and it was.   Finished the afternoon with a glass of sherry in the hotel bar. 

Tomorrow morning we leave early for our flight home.  Will probably blog again after we get home.  So Long!!

Back in Spain

Today was a day of transfer.  Suitcases out by 6:30 am, breakfast, and then board the bus by 8:00 am. We are in Spain.  The terrain changed dramatically during the day.  We started out with very rugged forests, moved to olive trees, then pasture lands with animals (cows, pigs, sheep), and then in the middle of the drive there were beautiful fields of crops.  We stopped after an hour and 45 minutes —for a technical stop—I would call it a potty stop.  Then on to Salamanca.  We said ‘Good-Bye” to Maggie, our guide through out Portugal.  She was the best.  Portuguese guides can only work in Portugal.  Likewise, we have a Spanish bus and a new bus driver.  He is more into his cell than conversing or helping riders. The day was sunny but cool with a breeze.  We met Carmen, our Spanish guide for the city.  We took a walking tour.  Spent time in the two cathedrals.  The new cathedral was 500 years old and the old one was 300 older than that.  Then we had time for lunch plus we needed to sit down.  Went to a tapas bar and sat at a table—mistake.  If you sit at the table you have to order from the menu.  The waitress couldn’t speech English and even whipped the napkins and silverware off the table and stomped off.  Chuck ordered wine and tapas.  N. Got her own food - garlic free.  We ate and used the facilities.  M. Suggested that we give the waitress a tip since we caused her such distress.  N used her meager Spanish and presented the tip.  All was good.  Oh, we had empanadas  and a hamon sandwich.  Good.  Went next door for ice cream.  Did a little shopping and back to the bus.
We are in Madrid now.  On the way to the Farewell Dinner. 

A Nice, Leisurely Pace

This is our last day sailing.  It was nice to be able to take our time this morning.  We had breakfast, started packing, went through two locks (one 109 feet and one 72 feet), and attended a cooking lesson. Chef Nuno Ribeiro demonstrated making Pasteis de Nata —the puff pastry cups filled with custard and baked.  After lunch we got on the bus and drove to Castelo Rodrigo which is another old walled village.  This one specialized in almond products (almonds which were salted, sugared, with chocolate, with five spice, etc. plus almond liqueurs, etc).  They also sold cork products—trivets, coasters, coin purses, purses, jewelry, etc.  (We had a program about cork yesterday.  Cork is important to Portugal, but one has to be patient.  After a tree is planted, it is 25 years before the first harvest of its bark, followed by 9 years before the next harvest.). The village was steep.  A walking tour was offered. N and I walked the first half.  Chuck preservered and walked the whole route.  Maria drove carefully along the route back to the bus.  Once again there were steep drop offs and beautiful vistas.  The landscape was more rugged with large rock outcropping, many more olive trees, fewer vineyards, lots of rocks walls and terraces, and a few sheep. We bid Maria farewell.  Tomorrow we will have a Spanish bus and driver.
When we were In Porto, we saw a group of young people dressed in black each wearing a big black woolen cape. We were told that traditionally university students dressed in black —kind of a rite of passage.  Some even prided themselves on never washing/cleaning the cape.  They were referred to as ‘the stinky ones.’  One evening some male students called a “TUNA” group (no connection to fish) entertained. There were eight of them, playing an accordion, guitar, etc., and singing.  They were cute and certainly not stinky.
Another night a group (male and female) played instruments and sang Faldo—melancholy music.  Chuck compares it to American Blues only a different style.
Today the weather was clear and sunny, but a little cool.  Before we came, we studied the temps here with envy.  Once we got here, the weather has been cooler than home.  But dry is good!

Cold and wet

Before we left home, we had weather/coat conversations:  Do I need the zip-in lining for my blue coat or should I just take my puffy coat or do I need gloves?? The answer was “Of course not” Wrong! Today was cool and just as we started for the bus, it started to rain.  By the time we arrived at lunch, we had that cold between the shoulder blades feel and dampness of feet.
From PinHao, we drove the back roads UP the mountains and winding around.  There were very sharp drop-offs on the right side (of 1,000 to 1,500 feet), no guard rails, and steep vineyard terraces on either side. If you were prone to car sickness, it was not a good day —enough said.  We eventually reached Mateus Palace.  It is the beautiful palace pictured on the Mateus wine bottle. (If you came of drinking age in the 60’s or 70’s, you know the bottle.  It was shaped like a canteen and deep maroon color.) Mateus was never made there - only pictured on the bottle. We toured part of the Palace.  The family still lives in part of it.  It is surrounded by beautiful gardens modeled after the gardens of Versailles in Paris.  We sloshed back to the bus.
We traveled a short way to Enoteca Quinta de Avessada and were greeted with a small taste of muscotel wine and a couple starters.  This was another winery owned by a family of long standing.  Two musicians entertained: an accordion player and a drummer.  They had one basic tune which they played over and over. (Think player piano with one roll.). We filed into a nice dining room and were served a white wine and a red wine, starters: roasted pork pieces, cod fritters, sausage.  Then we had a soup and then a stew of veal and carrots with potatoes and cabbage.  Of course there was bread.  There was a dessert buffet with creme brûlée, pears poached in port, chocolate something (was gone by the time I got there), cheese and fruit, layered cake.  This was followed by grappa and coffee. The young man who started this usually introduced each course with some commentary.  I think he loved entertaining and really wanted to be a stand-up comic.  Eventually we trooped back to the bus and napped on the way to the ship as Maria guided the bus back pass the thousands of acres of grapevines and olive trees.  

From the Hills of Portugal

Portugal was not involved in WWII and therefore, did not receive the influx of cash to rebuild.  Their new roads were not built until they joined the European Union.  We have heard nothing but glowing  remarks about the EU. With better roads, easier money, and better trade, came a more prosperous economy and tourism. We have noticed that every town seems to have a tower or castle.
Today we took a bus to Lamego which was touted as a historical and religious capital.  The church at the top of the hill had a spectacular interior.  The ceiling looked like a Wedgewood china platter —a blue background with white plaster decoration—unlike anything I have every seen.  The front and side altars were aglow with gold. But wait—to walk from this shrine to the cathedral downtown, you had to go down 700 steps.  The steps were in sets of 10 or so with a landing that had tiles depicting the life of Mary, then another set of steps. (True Catholic pilgrims climb up the steps in order to ask the Virgin Mary to rid them of their afflictions.)  The bus took us to the top and walking down was an option that we did not choose.  We rode back down, did some shopping, had coffee, walked around, and came back.
After returning to the ship, we set sail.  Went through a 91 foot lock.  Sailed on to Pinhao.  Took the bus on a very short ride to Quinta do Ronda. A guide took us out into the vineyard and explained their process for making port.  This vineyard was started in 1588.   We sampled a Pink Port and a Ruby Port. Back to the bus and the ship to get ready for the captain’s dinner tonight.
A quote from today:  “In Portugal, wine is king, but olives are the queen.” Olive trees are used as borders between vineyards and fields. “You can’t make money off fences, but you can from olives.” At dinner, there is always a small bowl of olives.  My three traveling companions are quite competitive in their olive consumption.  In addition to olive trees, we have seen many orange trees heavy with fruit.  There are also almond trees about with almonds a frequent ingredient in foods.  

Wine, Wine, Wine

This morning was cool with fog/mist.  Maria met us with the bus and drove us a half hour to the Avaleda Winery which has been owned by the same family for over 300 years.  We started by walking UP through a 25 acre garden.  The garden was at its height of glory with many blooming plants: azaleas, cherry trees, bridal wreath, rhododendrons, etc. There was a small pen of pygmy goats, a pond with two large white swans protecting their nest, and noisy peacocks on the roofs. Our guide had worked there for 31 years and knew many interesting details.  We tasted their famous green  (young white) wine which tastes similar to Pinot Grigio with hints of lemon.  Also tasted a rose wine.  Back to the bus and the short drive back to the boat.  We left after 1:00 pm.  About an hour later we passed through the deepest lock in Europe.  It is 114 feet deep and built between 1964 and 1971.  The dam provides power and flood control to the area.  The afternoon was sunny and a wonderful day to sit on the upper deck and watch the terraced countryside slide by. We docked at Regua and immediately walked (climbed) to the Duoro Museum (four flights of steps outside and three flights inside).  Enjoyed a lecture on the wine industry of the Duoro Valley.  Of course, we had to taste a red wine which Chuck pronounced, ‘very good.’  Time to return to the ship and dinner.
P. S. No pastries, just wine.  

Sailing up the Duoro River

This morning we left the ship at 8:30 am and rode the bus for an hour.  Our local guide, Maggie (44), is with us for the week.  She is a Portuguese who was born in Angola and then ousted from that country when Angola was no longer a Portuguese colony.  After surviving that (some family members did not), life is good if you have a roof over your head and food in your belly! Our driver for the week is Maria (early 30’s). She can manhandle that bus with the best of them! We drove through the countryside to Guimaraes which is where Portugal was born.  We saw re-built buildings from the 11th and 12th century.  The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so much money and effort was put into restoring/preserving the history of the area. (After Rockford’s long winter, we so appreciate and enjoy the blooming trees, flowers, leaves, etc.). The bus left us at the top of the hill and our walking tour of the town was down from there. We had time for coffee before meeting the bus and heading back.  The ship finally left the dock at 1:00 pm.  We headed for the Atlantic and the mouth of the Douro (less than 1/2 mile) before turning around and heading upstream.  It is a beautiful sunny day so we sat on the top deck, read a book, and watched the countryside slide by.  We went through the first lock — a drop of 45 feet.  That is always fun to watch.  This ship is probably 3/4 as wide as the other river boats we have been on.  However, when going through the lock we were snug up to the walls. That certainly made me understand why our cabin is smaller.  Later this afternoon our cruise director, Manuela, gave a presentation on Portuguese political history, education, and economy.  Very interesting.  Wanted to add a food note: we have consumed lots of fish and pastries.  

Exploring Oporto and Tasting Port

Wednesday, THE 25th of APRIL!
I can hear a marching band in the parade.  Today is a bank holiday and celebration of the end of the Salazar dictatorship and the beginning of democracy in Portugal.  Natives say, “the 25th of April” just like we say “ the Fourth of July.” Stores were not open and there was very little traffic when we were out and about this morning.
We started our day with a panoramic bus tour of Oporto.  Many old building are covered with beautiful tile. We saw a train station that used to be a convent or monastery.  The interior had 20,000 tiles on the walls with beautiful scenes. In the mid-1800’s religious orders were outlawed so it is common to see convents that are now police stations, etc.  Also saw one of the top bookstores in the world—Livaria Lello—which is said to be the inspiration for J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter book series.  It is very picturesque with extremely high ceilings.  Towards the back there is a short flight of steps which leads to a landing, branches left and right for short spiral staircases which meet on a landing and continue left and right for two more short spiral staircases.  Now you are on the balcony. M. Found a cookbook of Portuguese recipes written in English. She plans to entertain us all when we get home. Then we went next door for Coffee and another pastry (surprise).  Eventually we made it back to the ship.
The Duoro River is down in the valley between two cities, Gia and Oporto.  The terrain is hilly so you are either walking up a hill or down a hill.  Fortunately, we have good buses and good drivers.
This afternoon, we toured the Taylor Fladgate Winery (not to be confused with USA’s Taylor brand). This winery has been owned by the same family for 325 years.  Sampled delicious white port (similar to sherry) and 2012 vintage port (28 Euros/bottle). The weather has been very nice—sunny and 72.

Traveling to the Douro Serenity

Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Suitcases out at 6:30 am —so they were packed last night.  Had breakfast and were on the road by 8:00 am.  Our first stop was the walled town of Obidos.  The town is completely walled in in the Middle Ages, but of course, it is a major tourist stop now.  We walked the town, stopped to make purchases, had some coffee, and a freshly baked bun.  The bun was heavy (very heavy) and had lots of nuts, kind of sweet, unlike anything I had ever eaten.  Their specialty was a cherry liquer that was served in a chocolate cup with a toothpick skewered cherry floated on top.  Ten am was a little early for liquer, but the serving was very small.  Chuck drank the liquer; I ate the chocolate cup.  The town also had many souvenirs of cork, embroidery work, tiles, and roosters (their good luck animal).  The streets were extremely narrow—add a few cars and a small garbage truck—like playing dodgeball!  Back in the bus.  The countryside was filled with crops that were coming up —looked like cabbage, etc., greenhouses, and rows of plants.  Also saw sheep and small goats.  The next town was Nazare where we had lunch.  Chuck had octopus and quinoa, M had shrimp and rice, I had grilled cheese and fruit.  I was a little surprised when served Brie with honey and walnuts, topped with raspberries!.We were right on the Atlantic.  Back in the bus for a couple hours before we arrived at Oporto where our ship was docked.  By 4:30 we were checked in, and in our rooms.  This ship is smaller than most river cruise boats.  Our room is compact! Dinner was delicious.  Chuck ordered Oxtail stew.  Imagine his surprise when it was an oxtail mixture served in a filo wrap.  The fish was delicious.  Good wine, good company, and good port. 

Sightseeing in Lisbon

Monday, April 23, 2018

Holy Smokes!  I was half way through breakfast this morning when it suddenly hit me that I did not blog yesterday. I really got into a good book and was so intent on finishing it (I did) that I forgot all about blogging.
Yesterday (Sunday) started out with a panoramic city tour of Lisbon.  Our hotel is high on a hill above  the waterfront. (The River Tagus flows by Lisbon on its way to the Atlantic).  The Belem Tower is an castle/fort for defense was our first stop.  We also stopped to have Pasteis de Belem—a custard tart in a puff pastry crust served with a packet of cinnamon and a packet of powdered sugar.  Two tarts are a serving.  Delicious, but messy.  We were standing while eating, balancing the pastry, sprinkling sugar on it.  Our shoes and fronts looked like we had encountered a powdered sugar explosion!.  Drove around the city center past where we had stayed when we were here ten years ago.  Heard about Portugal’s explorations and colonies. Finally back to the hotel.  Chuck and I walked down the hill to explore the area where the hotel is.  After coffee and a snack we walked back UP the hill - puff, puff.  Ate dinner in the hotel with N and M.  Lisbon loves fish and seafood so that is what we had for dinner.  Chuck wanted to try their dried cod and was satisfied with it.  Finished our meal with lemon Sorbet.  Then back to my book.
Today we took a scenic bus tour of the Poruguese coast along the Atlantic Ocean.  Stopped in Sinatra and toured the town castle. The castle was built over several centuries and included 100 steps (each a different height, of course), beautiful ornate ceilings, and stories.  It was good to have a guide explaining the history of the building.  We rewarded ourselves with an almond puff pastry which is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream floated on a dip of whipped cream. Yum, Yum.  Back on the bus and on to the quiet fishing village (and major tourist stop) of Cascais.  Chuck enjoyed the grilled sardines that he had been looking forward to.  N & M had Seafood Rice served in a tomato broth.  It contained all kinds of seafood in their shells.  It was delicious and was suppose to feed two —more like four.  After walking around for a bit, we headed back to the bus, drove along the Atlantic coast, then the river, and back to the hotel.  Must tell you that it was 76 degrees with sunshine.  Flowers blooming everywhere. Time to pack for tomorrow.  

Arriving in Portugal

Saturday, April 21, 2018
After an overnight flight from Chicago to Madrid, we boarded a short flight to Lisbon.  The only unusual occurrence was that our breakfast (served about four hours after our dinner) was a plain yogurt, a cold bun with meat and cheese, and a fun size Milky Way.  Never had a candy bar for breakfast, but not a bad idea.
It was raining in Lisbon when we landed.  We waited a long time for luggage and you guessed it —it was very wet.  Fortunately, we pack in large plastic ziploc bags and packing cubes so our things were dry.  We are now trying to dry out the suitcases.
We are staying at the Pestana in the middle of the city.  The original part was built as a palace in the late 1800’s. There have been many additions, and restorations since then.  Our room opens onto a garden with lavender flowers (from a distance they look like lilacs or phlox, but are neither), and other beautiful flowers blooming. Of course, there are statues, too.
The main point of this entry is just to let you know that we arrived.  Two friends, N and M, are traveling with us.  After a Welcome Dinner this evening and a good night’s sleep, we will all be a little better.