Home again

We are home, but wanted to fill you in on the Tango night and some lasting impressions from our trip. We left the hotel at 8:00 PM.  The Tango Night was actually staged in the part of Buenos Aires where the tango started.  The term 'tango' includes the dance, the music, the songs, the dress, and in general, the whole scene.  The evening started with a meal in a restaurant across the street from the theater.  There were several choices for starters, entrees and dessert.  I chose chicken (bad choice) and Chuck chose steak (good choice).  We both enjoyed the flan served with a little Dulce  leche  (carmel sauce).  The theater was fairly small and our seats were very near the stage.  Five musicians (bass, two guitars, two button accordions) provided the stirring music.  Three couples danced with quick costume changes between numbers.  Then a female singer belted out several tango numbers.  Then a group of four musicians played traditional South American music which included the pan flute, a guitar-like instrument, drums, and another guitar.  The singer came back and then the dancers.  It was a very full program and a fitting finish to our trip.
On Thursday morning, six members of our group left for Iguazu  Falls.  Chuck and I packed and left our bags and carry-ons with the front desk.  We walked, got lost, went to a religious museum, had a coffee at Havana coffee bar, and lunch at El Gatto.  At 5 PM we left for the airport.  Of course, traffic was heavy.  Our plane did not leave until 10:45 PM.  During the 9.5 hour flight, we had a light meal and then breakfast.  I have to admit that I had the best sleep ever on a plane. Landed in Miami around 7 AM.  Walked the entire length of the Miami airport to our American flight to Chicago.  Bus to Rockford.  Nancy and Larry met the bus and brought us home.  Home by 3:10 PM on Friday.  Weary!
Observations:1.  Chile's economy is stable.  Argentina's is not.  Inflation has been running 30% a year. 2. Argentinians are very 'touchy-feely.'  People greet each other with a light hug and a kiss on the cheek.  They frequently touch the arm of the person they are talking to.  3. Chile is 2200 miles long and 160 miles wide with the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Andes on the other.  4.  The Patagonian weather was amazing with its strong winds and rain.  When we moved away from the Fjords a short distance, it was a desert- like climate. 5.  The southern icefield was the biggest in the world --larger than Greenland or Alaska.  Wow, that's enough factoids for this trip.    

Buenos Aires

Yesterday was one of those hurry up and wait days.  We were in ElCalafate---just to refresh your memory and mine.  We left the hotel at 9:00 AM and headed to the airport.  We were early, but that is best.  We checked in and waited. Being this was a domestic flight, we could have liquids in our carry-ons.  That felt a little strange.  However, they weighed carry-ons and also made people fit their carry-ons into a framework to see if it exceeded the size restriction. The exceptions had to be checked in. Boarded our flight for Buenos Aires.  The flight took 3 hours.  Landed and went to our hotel.  Our hotel is in the middle of things and close to several good restaurants.
Last night we joined several others at Il Gatto (the cat) -a Mediterranean restaurant for pasta and wine, of course.  We had a coffee at Havanna, a coffee bar across the street with free Wi-Fi.
Today we toured Buenos Aires.  First to the cemetery of the rich and famous.  Mausoleums were 15 foot high with statuary, lots of granite and marble, etc.  Saw Eva Peron's family mausoleum.  Then on to see the parks and many monuments.  Saw the Catholic Church where the current Pope served on special occasions when he was Archbishop here. Saw the Presidential palace and government buildings. Streets were blocked off and the  Presidential helicopter took off carrying "Mrs. Botox."  Went through the old port area where the immigrants would first live and that now houses arts and crafts.  For lunch, we went to an old restaurant, Tortoni, started in 1858 and reminded me of European coffee houses we have seen.  Were served a typical Argentinian lunch of a thin steak, potato salad, and tomato.  Buenos Aires reminds us of a typical European city with beautiful architecture, clean streets, lots of traffic, busy people and very cosmopolitan with a strong Italian - Spanish flavor. Tonight we go to a Tango show and dinner.  Tomorrow night we fly out.  

Las Glacier National Park

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day --all day.  In a land of wind and rain, sunshine is very precious.  The wind here usually comes from the south and east so people even build their houses with no windows or doors on those sides.
We met our day guide, Pablo, boarded the bus and started into the National Park.  An hour and a half later, we arrived at a lookout.  There was Glacier Perito Moreno.  It is huge--18 miles long and is unusual in that it stays the same size. It is 60 meters high above the water and has twice as much under water so it is very thick. It keeps building at the top with snow and at the same rate it ruptures (the term they use instead of 'calving') at the bottom into the lake.  Finally we arrived at the point directly across from the glacier and started our walk down.  I was surprised that there were metal steps with wooden rails.  After walking down a flight or so, there was an elevator to take us down a couple stories, and then more flights.  We did not go completely to the bottom, but stopped at a lookout and ate our lunch which the hotel had packed.  You could hear and see the glacier rupturing --we were probably 500 feet from the face of the glacier.  Then we started back up.  The elevator operator chuckled at our puffing.  Had a cup of coffee at the bar.  Then the bus took us to an excursion boat, Victoria Argentina, for a close-up view of the glacier.  We were 300 meters away and on side of the glacier.  It is dangerous to get too close because of falling ice and the waves that are created when the ice hits the water.  Back to the bus and back to the hotel.  Last night was our farewell banquet with a delicious dinner of beef filets and plenty of red wine.  Our guide, Nadia, briefed us on the rest of the trip and then we reminisced about everything we have done so far.   

On the road to ElCalafate, Argentina

This was a day on the road.  We left the hotel at 9:00 AM.  It was cloudy and the Massive was again draped in clouds.  It took us about two hours to get out of the park on that bumpy, washboard road.  We stopped numerous times for the photographers to take pictures of the guanacos--in small groups, herds, males by themself silhouetted on a ridge on the outlook for other males and pumas--their main predator, young ones, old ones, grazing, running, kissing.  You get it we had plenty of photo ops.
At the border we stopped for lunch.  It was the basic Chilean stew.  Start with a clear broth, add a chicken wing, half a potato, a piece of butternut squash,  a 1" slice of corn on the cob, and carrot pieces. Cook until almost done, but not quite.  Pass minced parsley and cilantro to sprinkle on top.  We had the beef version of this the other day.  After lunch, we passed through Chilean passport check.  Drove a few miles and entered Argentina through their passport check.  Drove two hours to a bathroom/snack stop.  Drove another two hours to ElCalafate.  The big hills are covered with tan grass (it is the end of summer here) and are perfect camo for guanacos.  There are clumps of grass, bushes, and something that looks like sagebrush.  There were cattle and sheep ranches along the way. So now we are in ElCAlafate.  This is another haven for trekkers.  They are walking up and down the street.  It would be easy to imagine that you are in Aspen or Jackson Hole.  Chuck and I walked around a bit and then found a nice pizza place.
On the way here today our guide tried to explain the political system in Argentina.  At this time the Argentine peso is very unstable.  It was a good lesson for those of us who take the dollar for granted.  

All Day in the Park

Yesterday on the way in to the park the guide kept saying, "You are so lucky that the day is clear and you can see the Massive (the large mountain formation)."  It was beautiful with all the light playing on it at sunset.  It was beautiful this morning as the sun rose and the mountain looked pink, white, etc.   Then the clouds came and by mid-afternoon the Massive disappeared behind a cloak of clouds. Today has been cloudy, but NO rain and NO wind so that was great.
This area is a destination for backpackers, trekkers, mountain climbers, and hikers of all ages and descriptions and from all parts of the world.  They stay in hostels, hotels, pitch tents, stay in small cabins in the park etc.  The season is almost over so they are hurrying to get some climbs in.  We can see more snow on the mountains every day.
We left after breakfast and drove in a northwesterly direction.  (This hotel is located at the far southern end of the park.)  After an hour or so--the roads are very bumpy so travel is slow--we left the bus and hiked a kilometer to see Grey Glacier and a lake.  It was a long walk for this lady. Eventually, we stopped for lunch at a rustic lodge set up for tourist.  They were barbecuing steaks, chicken and salmon over a wood fire.  Nice spot for food and to warm up.  Then we took off again and drove a short way to a waterfalls.  Got off the bus and walked about 15 minutes to the waterfalls. Got some good pictures.  Saw a fox on the way.  Other than the fox and a few birds, this was a non-animal day.  Back to the hotel about 4:30 PM.  Tomorrow we leave this park and Chile.

Torres del Paines National Park

We are here:  sitting in our hotel room looking out at a spectacular view of the Massive in Torres del Paines National Park.  But let me back up and tell you about the day and night.  By bedtime last night we were docked in Puerto Natales so that meant that we didn't have that sweet rocking of the boat to sleep by.  We had breakfast and were on the bus by 9:30 AM.  Drove from the dock to PN (population 20,000, second biggest city in Patagonia) and drove around a bit.  By 10:00 AM our guide, Andrea, told us that we were taking a walking tour across the square which we did.  Then we walked to a Catholic girls' school.  (Vantage had never done that before so there was apprehension on the part of the guides and also the school.)  Anyway the principal greeted us warmly, told us that she had been a foreign exchange student in the state of Delaware many years ago, and spoke excellent English.  First we went into the classroom of 8th grade girls who giggled a lot, but were very welcoming.  When we were introduced as being from near Chicago, there was an outburst.  Apparently they knew about Chicago from some Disney movie.  Next we went to the sixth grade class and then the kindergarten.  It was a nice school with good facilities.  The children were well cared for and had beautiful black shiny hairy.  The principal wanted more information from Nadia, our guide, to see if they could have other visits.  Oh, by the way, a TV station happened to be there doing a story and captured us on film, too.  

Next, we walked down the street to Nandu, a souvenir/coffee shop/Wi-Fi hot spot.  Had a bite to eat and checked our Email.  We do like to hear from our friends and family.  After that Chuck and I walked around a bit. It was sunny and windy, but no rain for the whole day.  At 1:30 PM we got back on the bus.  Enroute to the park, we stopped for the bathroom a couple times and for photo ops a number of times.  We were driving through ranch country with sheep or hereford cattle in the fields.  The topography was like Wyoming. There were numerous guanaco along the way.  They are from the camel family, wild, and smaller than llama and alpaca.  Sometimes we saw herd of 50 or more together.  They liked to take dust baths in shallow, round dust bowls (about a meter across) that they had developed.  Also saw rheas (small ostrichs) a few times.  The last three hours of the trip were over a washboard country gravel or broken blacktop road.  Wow, was it ROUGH.  The Massive is the name for the mountain formation that this park is built around.  We could see it all day long and are still not that close.  Tomorrow we tour the park.

Should tell you about last night's dinner.  The Farewell banquet was actually a buffet.  It started with the captain giving a speech and then toasting with Chilean champagne. The appetizer and salad table included many kinds of seafood.  We have eaten more avocado and king crab on the ship than in the previous year.  Entrees also included seafood, chicken, and beef.  Small scallops with a special sauce were served in shells.  It was heavenly.  The dessert table included flan and other beautifully presented and delicious sweets.   

Wind and Weather

During the night we sailed Montonas Fjord.  We woke up to high winds and the boat rocking.  It was a real experience to take a shower while swaying back and forth, holding on to the grab bar with one hand and sudsing up with the other.  After breakfast it had calmed down a little. Chuck decided that he was up the challenge. He donned a waterproof jacket and pants and headed to the small open boat. They went to the foot of Alsina Glacier (at least 1000' thick) ain a small bay with waterfalls on either side and an enormous mountain behind. Of course, it was still windy and raining. He came back in a short time wet on the outside and feeling a little beat up. He was dry and warm under that outer layer. 

The next excursion was to Bernal Glacier but we decided that we could really seen plenty glaciers from the boat. Meanwhile we watched our boat take on 'sweet water' from a rushing brook off a waterfalls. While eating lunch, we heard stories of people getting soaked while on the outing. This is a rather lazy afternoon of packing for tomorrow, getting ready for the farewell banquet, drinking tea, looking out the window at the beautiful scenery, and taking a nap. 

Glaciers, Glaciers, Glaciers

The Skorpios III sailed during the night so we awoke to new scenery.  This was to be our first day of up-close glacier viewing so we were apprehensive.  Following directions we were dressed warmly.  I counted 4 layers on the bottom and 6 on top with outside layers being water-proof.  We were given life-jackets (not the ones in our cabins - those are for emergencies) and assisted on to a small transport boat with an outboard motor.  There were plenty of young strong crew to assist us on and off the boat.  We disembarked on a terminal moraine (where the iceberg had ended and left behind rocks and sand).  We walked a half mile one way: first on sand (ground rock), then moss, lichen, small alpine flowers, and then very rocky, treacherous terrain.  We ended up very close to Amalia Glacier.  After a good look, we started back.  I was lucky to have Chuck help me.  In the meantime, a glacier had calved and the ice field was so thick that our little boat could not get close.  Crew members had to wade out with a pick ax and break up ice so the boat could get closer. We boarded the small boat just as it started to rain.  Off the boat, off with the life jackets, and then lunch.  Around 1:15 PM, we headed out again.  On with the life jackets, get on the boat, and head to ElBrujo Glacier.  Actually we just climbed up a slick rock covered with lichen, had our picture taken by a glacier and got back on the small boat.  Back to our big boat, off with the life jackets, and have a cup of hot tea and some treats, of course.  Around 5:15 PM we boarded the ice-breaker Constantino.  It had two levels and the lower one was covered and heated.  We moved through a very thick ice field.  You could hear big pieces of ice (from the size of a 5 gallon bucket to the size of a car or bigger) hitting against the boat at all times.  During the two hours we were on the ice breaker, we saw dolphins swimming along side the boat, sea lions were playing on the banks, and we saw Cormorants on the side of a cliff.  We saw at least 8 glaciers --sometimes you could look down a fijord and see 6 at one.  We also saw multiple waterfalls.  We were served drinks with glacier ice.  Headed back to the Skorpios !!! around 8 PM.  Dinner at 9 PM.  This has been a full day. 

From the Strait of Magellan to the Chilean Fijord

From the Strait of Magellan to the Chilean Fijords--

We left Punta Arenas at 9:30 AM. and headed north  to Puerto Natales.  The day was very windy (think the windiest March day you can remember). Temperature was in the 40's but felt much colder.  It alternated between sunny, five minutes later there was a very dark cloud and rain, then a rainbow, then clouds, etc.  I think that is the norm.  . The terrain was rolling hills with short grass --think Wyoming and western Nebraska.  Many sheep are grown in this area. As we drove through the countryside, we were on the lookout for different birds and animals.  We spotted several Rhea (a small ostrich).  The bus driver spotted a condor flying overhead riding the thermals (larger than the California condor).  Chuck saw guanaco (relative of llama and camel, but size of small doe)..  By lunch time we arrived at the Estancia Rio Patagonian Ranch., established in 1895.  First we toured the farm house and met the grandmother ,  Then saw a cowboy and his dogs herd the sheep. We then met the grandson and   went to the barn and saw a sheep being sheared.and saw the wool bundled.  All of this was followed by a meal of meat barbecued over a wood fire --lamb, sausage, beef, chicken--,  potatoes, rice, sliced beets, buns, salad of corn, peas, and carrots, chicken consomme, red wine, coffee, and Mousse.  We were served just as the crowd from the Celebrity cruise ship arrived.  Good timing.  Soon we were back on the bus.  Arrived at the Skorpios III at 3:30 PM.  If you have ever boarded a cruise ship, you would appreciate the boarding process we experienced. The bus drove on the dock and stopped 10 feet from the boat.  A crew person got on the bus and handed out keys while the bus driver unloaded our suitcases.  We got off the bus and went directly to our rooms where our luggage was waiting.  This boat has 40 cabins and 5 suites, on four decks ----so just the right size to navigate the fijords.  We had orientation in the dining room and were served tea before the boat embarked.  We are now on our journey.  I can see snow on top the moutains.  Dinner is at 9:00 PM.  Tomorrow is a full day of glacier exploration. 

Greetings from Punta Arenas

Our wake-up call was at 2:30 AM, suitcases out by 2:45, then breakfast and a bus ride to the Airport. Arrived at the airport by 4:00 AM.  We were to board at 5:30 for the 6:00 plane from Santiago to Punta Arenas.  We were standing in line to board when suddenly Nadia said, "Plan B.  Please be seated."  We all sat down and she told us that they were bringing another plane around.  "Remember this is South America."  She repeated her mantra from the first day:  "Be flexible, eager, and positive." The first plane finished boarding. Another plane arrived and filled completely.  These were not small planes - Airbus 322-  so where did all the people come from?  Anyway, we were in the air by 6:30.  Arrived in Punta Arenas around 9:30.  The airport and area around it are rather scruffy.  Reminds you of the saying, "It isn't the end of the earth, but you can see it from here."  We are 600 miles across the water from Antarctica The guide said that the town has 120,000 people, but it certainly doesn't look like that.  The houses are brightly colored, built on very small pieces of land, and usually connected to one another.  Because of the Strait of Magellan, this was part of an important trade route.  All that changed with the building of the Panama Canal.  The discovery of petroleum after WWII helped as has the cruise industry.  Today there were two ships in dock:  Holland America and a Princess.  They each have one more run before the end of the cruise season here.
We are in a beautiful hotel, Dreams.  It is a contemporary glass structure on the waters' edge.  So far we have had a bus/walking tour of the area and lunch.  Will have a group dinner tonight.  We have been instructed to dress warmly and waterproof tomorrow.  This area usually has at least 30 mph winds, often higher.  It is also rainy. After a day of exploring tomorrow, we board Scorpio for our days of glacier watching.  There is no internet on board.  Today I am enjoying free internet in our room--what a luxury!

Day One/Two in Chile

Day one and two in Chile:  We arrived in Santiago, Chile around 7:00 AM.  From the air, we could see the sunrise over the Andes Mountains and Santiago squished in the strip of land between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean.  It is a beautiful summer day here.  We have checked into our hotel, a Marriott in downtown, and taken a nap.  We are ready to explore and eat lunch.  We have already met our guide, Nadia, and some of our group.  There are only 16 in this group - a very nice size. 

Our plane trip was 'uneventful'--the best kind.  I promise to not complain about security searches or sleeping sitting upright.  Just wanted to let you know that we arrived and so did our luggage.  

Later--we met our group at 3 PM. After orientation, we took a panoramic city tour. Santiago is a clean city of six million people which is about a third of the population of the country. At 7:30 we met for dinner. Dinner is usually served at 9:30 or 10 so they made an exception for us. Beef  was served.  Bedtime came early. 

Day three in Chile

Day Three

Our day started out with a buffet breakfast. Fortunately we didn't have to meet the bus until 10 AM. We still are trying to catch up on sleep and figure out where everything is.  We drove about 45 minutes to Conchay Toro,  a winery that was established in 1883. Our drive took us through the suburbs and out into the foothills. The setting at the foot of the Andes was perfect. The day was beautiful- about 75 degrees, sunny, and a light breeze. We took a walking tour of the grounds, saw the original summer home from the outside, walked into the vineyard, sampled different grapes, visited the cellars, and saw the devil!  Yes, this winery is famous for Casillero del Diablo--sells for $300/bottle in the USA and only $110 at the winery. And NO we didn't buy any but did sample one white and two reds.  Back on the bus for another ride. When we pulled up to the restaurant, our guide quickly explained that this was where the locals ate.  She described the architecture as a cross between Seven Dwarfs and Gaudy. It was quite unique with chicken cooked over a wood fire, impanades with cheese, Pisco sours (a Chilean drink similar to a Margarita), potatoes, salad, ice cream served in their version of a waffle cup, and then a tiny chocolate cup filled with Amaretto (one fellow thought that it was just enough for communion!). Back to the bus for the ride home. The rhythm of the bus, the warm day, full bellies, and alcohol made a very quiet ride back. 

A couple small world stories. While talking with Diane today, we discovered that she was on the Africa trip immediately after us. A Vantage film crew started with our trip and ended with theirs. At lunch, I sat next to Roberta and discovered that they were on the Vantage North Sea

Cruise with us- where we got caught in a storm and lost power. 

The day before we arrived, the internet in the hotel went 'kaput'. If I find WiFi tonight, I will send this. Nadia, our guide has told us that there will be no internet in Puntas Arenas.  I will write and try to send when I can. However, I have accepted that sending blogs will be a challenge on this trip. 

Tomorrow our wake-up call is 2:30 AM for a very early flight to Puntas Arenas.