Home again!

Yesterday, Tuesday, was spent traveling home.  We woke up to a grey day with light rain.  We saw Boston on TV and traffic was a mess so we moved up our departure time 15 minutes and then another 15 minutes.  Well, not everyone got the message.  We had decided that we were packed and might as well go to the lobby only to discover that the bus was almost loaded.  Others were later.  Actually the two hours passed quickly without great hitches in the traffic.  Boarding Southwest is always exciting with no assigned seats.  Chuck and I ended up in the very back row, but at least we sat together.  Our bus picked us up and delivered us to the Rock Valley College Parking lot where Wanda was waiting for us.  After a quick trip to Wendy's for supper, Chuck headed to the Kiwanis board meeting.  Now we will work on pictures while reflecting on the great trip to New England and the new friends we have made.  

From Brattelboro, Vermont --late

Last night in Brattleboro, Vermont I suffered major internet/IPad trauma.  First, I couldn't get on the internet and then when I finally did--more chaos.  I had written the blog and was going to make a couple small corrections before posting.  The whole IPad locked up. I had to turn it off and of course, the new post disappeared --somewhere. I went to bed.  I will try again.
On Monday morning, we left the hotel and drove for 45 minutes through the foothills of White Mountains National Forest on the way to Mount Washington, the highest mountain on the east coast at an elevation of over 6,200 feet.  We could see snow on the top of the mountain.  We boarded a cog train powered (pushed) by a biodiesel engine and started up the mountain.  The scenery was breathtaking as we watched the trees get smaller, saw more snow, saw a couple hikers, realized how steep a 37% climb really is, and finally stopped about 3/4 way to the top.  Because of the snow and ice on the rails, it was not safe to go any further.  The brakeman told us how to turn the seats around and we went back down --with the engine in front of us. This area is where the Appalachian Trail goes through.
The bus was waiting for us and took us to lunch in Woodstock, NH (not New York).  We explored the town and shopped a little before continuing to Brattleboro.  During our afternoon, Gene (a retired teacher) conducted one of his famous quizzes about the sights of the trip and other assorted facts. Many of these people (including many teachers) have traveled together before so they were amazed when Chuck and I (the newcomers) got the highest score.  We won two Maine tee shirts and wine with dinner and a little respect! Our farewell dinner was at the Marina.  We enjoyed great food and a re-hash of all we had done.  Now insert the part about my computer frustration. 

Greetings from New Hampshire

This morning we woke up to a beautiful view of the harbor.  It wasn't long before the Queen Mary II ship came into view.  It is such a stately ship. Soon the tenders were lowered to the water, followed by passengers boarding, coming to shore and filling the town and tour buses.   The last of the 130 ships for the season will come in on November 1.
A step-on guide joined our loaded bus and we drove to Acadia National Park.  Our first stop was the top of Cadillac Mountain.  It was mighty cold and windy up there.  We stopped two more times for photo ops.  We learned about the devastating 1947 forest fire which burned up to 17,000 acres of woods, and many homes. After the evergreens burned, they were replaced by deciduous trees.  The result was the colorful trees which they now have.  During the two hour tour, we took many pictures of the water, trees, mountains, and nature.
We spent most of the day driving across Maine to New Hampshire.  Looked at the landscape which really looked alot like Wisconsin, watched the movie, "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty," and napped.
Enjoyed a delicious dinner.  We both had haddock.  The fish has been outstanding.  I think they both have really good fish and know how to prepare it.   Time to call it a day.  

The Day in Bar Harbour

This morning started a little later than usual. At 9:15 AM, we left for the day.  Took the bus to downtown Bar Harbour.  The temp is 58 - high of 61 today, with some sun.  It doesn't take us long to realize that the season is almost over here.  The coffee shop where we had coffee and Grandma's blueberry coffee cake (not baked today or yesterday) is closing in two days. The ice cream store (only   99 cents a scoop) is closing in two days.  The sports store next door is closing in two weeks.  We walked around, did some shopping, enjoyed the ambiance, and took pictures. At 1:00 PM we got on a boat for a two hour tour.  The non-stop commentator pointed out wild life (seals, eagles, harbour porpoises, puffins), cottages, and points of history.  Then we took a half hour ride on a trolley with a driver who told us all about Bar Harbour history.  A little later we headed out for a lobster dinner.  Started out with mussels--delicious.  We were then invited it to see the steamers filled with lobster, corn on the cob, and potatoes. Lobster is always a challenge to eat, but worth it.  Our meal finished with blueberry (of course) cake.  Headed back to pack up.  

Waking up in Bar Harbour

Yesterday was another long day.  We started out in Kennebunkport, Maine.  Our driver is from Maine so he had plenty of commentary as we drove around the quaint New England town.  The Bush's summer place is out on a penninsula.  There is no place for buses to stop so he kept the wheels moving slooooowly as we took a few pictures.  It is really quite modest compared to the golden age mansions we have been seeing. We stopped downtown for a cup of coffee, a blueberry muffin, and a walk around downtown.  Drove to Portland, the largest city in Maine.  Our first stop was the Fort Williams Lighthouse commissioned by George Washington.  Next stop was by the harbour with many eating places and shops.  Chuck had fried clams and I had clam chowder.  We then visited a Victorian mansion that is being restored.  It was smaller than the others, but just as ornate. It had been owned by Ruggles Morse from New Orleans.  Back on the road for a long drive to Bar Harbour.  The drive reminded me of northern Minnesota in many ways: a ribbon of concrete througha sea of trees.
We did have a beautiful sunny day and some beautiful colorful trees.  Arrived here at the Blue Nose Inn in the dark so this morning's glimpse of the harbour and the cruise ship was a surprise.  This is one of the old time resorts --well maintained.  Dinner was here.  Dessert was blueberry pie!  Finished the evening listening to a great piano player in the louge.

Greetings from Wells, Maine

This has been a long, long day.  Our first stop was a visit to the Breakers--Cornelius Vanderbilt's summer cottage built in 1895 in Newport, RI.  It had 70 rooms and over 125,000 square feet.  It was absolutely breath-taking, especially when you consider that it was only used during the summer--an example of the Gilded Age.  We then traveled several blocks down the shore and visited Marble Head, Alva and William Vanerbilt's summer home built in 1892.  It had 50 rooms and required a staff of 36.  Then we drove an hour and a half to Plimouth Plantation. It was a historic re-creation of a 17th century village with a local Indian tribe community, an English colony, craft center, museum store, restaurant, etc.  The Mayflower was only a couple miles from there.  Up to this point, the day had been grey, 72 degrees, very humid, misting, and sprinkling.  When we got out of the bus to visit the exact replica of the Mayflower, it poured.  Despite a rain coat and umbrella, everything (except my underwear) got soaked.  We got on the Mayflower and briefly looked around.  We walked back and took shelter.  Did not go and see Plymouth Rock.  Our spirit of adventure was getting seriously diluted. The bus finally showed up.  We then sloshed back on the bus and rode three hours. Passed through Mass., New Hamphire, and ended up in Maine.  Stopped at a restaurant for baked cod (the best ever) and arrived at our motel by 9:00 PM.  By the time we ate, one sleeve was still wet: all else had dried out.  

Greetings from Middletown, Rhode Island

Today was a day of touring Boston in summer weather (high 70's). Started out with a taste of Boston morning traffic as we headed from Braintree back into Boston..  Our first stop was to pick up our step-on guide Alan.  He pointed out many historical buildings: Trintiy Church, the public library (first public library in the US), the Boston Marathon route, Christian Science Mother church among others. We stopped in Cambridge and walked for a half hour on the Harvard campus.  Saw the MIT campus.  Headed back to Faneuil Hall/Quincy Market for lunch.  This time Chuck had lobster salad and I had spinach pie.  Went upstairs in Faneuil Hall (the cradle of liberty) and saw Great Hall--a private meeting space for the citizens of Boston.   Back to the bus and on to the JFK Presidential Library which was opened in 1979.  It is set in the harbor, surrounded by water, and on the campus of the University of Massachusetts Boston campus.  We enjoy Presidential Libraries and this one was no exception.  After that we drove an hour and a half to Middletown, Rhode Island.  Enjoyed colorful trees on the way here.  

Greetings from Boston

Most of today was spent traveling.  Wanda took us to the bus at Rock Valley College. Gene and Tammy are leading the tour.  All forty people were on time.  Drove to Midway Airport, ate lunch and boarded the plane.  We flew Southwest which does not assign seats. The flight was full and by the time we boarded, there was only a sprinkling of middle seats left.  It was only a two hour twenty minute flight so no big deal.  After landing, we were met by Dennis and bus we will have for the week. Took us to Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market.  Both are very historic spots in downtown Boston.  Tonight's goal was to find food.  There were many, many choices with sit down restaurants and plenty of food court type places and seating.  Chuck and I had clam chowder--very good.  Another couple sat down and we started talking.  They were from South Africa, had been in New England for a month and were going home tomorrow.  Had a delightful conversation. Then we had some ice cream.  The bus picked us up at 7:45PM and we headed for our hotel in Braintree, MA. We are ready for some sleep.  

Back to Dublin

Our tour today started right in Kilkenny with the Kilkenny Castle.  'Over the eight centuries of its existence, many additions and alterations were made to the fabric of the building, making Kilkenny Castle today a complex structure."  It was huge and set a top the hill. Fifteen years ago a couple floors were restored to how it looked in the 1800's.  Beautiful.  Then we hit the highway and headed back to Dublin, arriving here around 1:00 PM. Chuck and I took a walk to get a sandwich and enjoy the fantastic sunny day.  Tonight we take a drive around and then have dinner.
Factoids:
*Martina has been a marvelous guide with great energy and enthusiasm.  She generously shared her love of Ireland.  Has a wonderful vocabulary of adjectives: lovely, grand, amazing, beautiful.  Just enough Irish to make it feel authentic: 'bits and bobs (your stuff)', craic (good time), jar (a drink). etc.
*Bobby was a great driver.  Drove that bus in places where I wouldn't want to take a VW.
*Ireland looks pretty prosperous despite a real economic jolt in 2008.  They have had a austerity plan to get themselves out of the 'fix we got in with the Celtic Tiger (living on plastsic pre-2008).'
*Ireland gets 70 inches of rain a year.  We were so lucky to have NO rain while we have been here.
*Ireland is about the size of the state of Maine.
P.S. to above post.  The bus picked us up at 4:45 PM and drove us down to the seashore.  Because it was warm, there were many people swimming, walking along the shore, and enjoying the great outdoors.  At 6:00 PM we arrived at Roly's Bistro for dinner.  OK, I have to tell you what we had to eat because it was great.  We started with red or white wine and a selection of freshly baked breads and butter.  That was followed by a mesculun greens, tomatoes, mozarella and avocado salad (me) and Thai fishcakes (Chuck).  Chuck had Lamb pie and I had grilled salmon.  Potatoes, Broccoli, and Carrots (mashed with honey and cardamon) were passed.  I finished with a pear tart topped with maple walnut ice cream.  Chuck had a strawberry cheesecake sundae.  The creme bruele with a basket of fresh berries looked awfully good.  We walked (waddled) back to the hotel.  A great way to end an Irish adventure.  

Blarney, Waterford, and Kilkenny

Early this morning we left Killarney and headed to the Blarney Castle.  The castle has a lovely setting amid gardens, waterfalls, and paths.  To reach the Blarney Stone, you have to walk up 119 claustrophobic steps, lay down on your backside, hang over the edge, and kiss.  We opted to look up and see the others perform.  Chuck said that he already has the 'gift of gab' and doesn't need any more! Our next stop was the town of Waterford--made famous by Waterford Crystal.  In truth, most Waterford is now made in Slovakia.  However, large crystal trophies are still made in Waterford.  We toured the factory and showroom and observed the intricate proces. There was also a street festival going on so that was fun.  I had a raspberry ripple ice cream and Chuck had a hot dog.  Did a little more shopping and then on to the bus.  When we arrived in Kilkenny, we went directly to Kyteler's Inn.  There we were entertained by Damien Walsh who taught us all to play the Irish Bodhran (drum).  Of course, a little Guiness made us all play much better.  Then we checked into the hotel and had dinner---more fish, much more potatoes and more apple crumble with clotted cream.  Time to go to bed. 

The Ring of Kerry

Left over questions:  the burren is the title given to land where little grows except rock.  Example:  the badlands of South Dakota.  Have we stayed at the same hotel or are we on the move?  We started out in Dublin for two nights and will return to that hotel for our last night.  After Dublin we were at a different hotel for  three nights.  We have been here in Killarney for two nights. Tomorrow night we will be in Kilkenny and then on to Dublin.  We have repacked often.  The Schroeder 'plastic bag' method has stood us in good stead.
Today we did the Ring of Kerry - a 105 mile drive along the peninsula of Kerry.  It was mountainous, but filled with beauty.  We stopped at a thatch cottage small family run restaurant for lunch.  Mostly we just rode and stopped for photo ops or potty stops.  Mid-afternoon half the group took a 3 mile walk through the National Park--lead by a park ranger.  Chuck did that.  The rest of the group came back for shopping or resting.  That would be me.  Early this evening we took the bus about 20 minutes to a small town where we were entertained by Brendon McSomething who sang and played the concertina,  Johnny the Flute, and a Fiddle Player.  We were served a delicious meal with a choice of salmon or Irish (lamb) stew.  Later we had the choice of Irish coffee or Bailey over ice.  A 12 year old girl entertained us with Irish dancing and some from our group also danced.  It was a fantastic evening--a fitting finish to another beautiful day.  

A long day in the burrens

Left the hotel early, but still got caught in a serious traffic jam in Galway.  Our first stop was Rathburn farms, a farm that shows tourist the agrarian lifestyle.  Walked through the barn and saw different breeds of sheep, listened to the farmer talk about their operation, watched the border collie  round up the sheep,and  watched the farmer shear a sheep.  The most astounding thing he told us was that they raise the sheep for meat (most exported to France).  It costs as much to shear a sheep as the wool brings--wool is exported to China, because synthetics are more popular with the Irish.  Then we went to the house and his wife served us coffee and fresh scones with clotted cream and jam.  "Twenty six years ago we built on this extra room and started inviting tourist to be our guest.  The income supplemented our farm income.  Now the income allows us to keep our hobby, the farm operation which has been in my husband's family for three generations."  Also toured their thatch roof cottage.  Back on the road through the burrens---the roads were very narrow with other buses or trucks having to put their side mirrors in so the bus could pass.  Finally reached the Cliffs of Moher--three steep mounds of slate.  We climbed up all three and then ate lunch.  Got back in the bus for another hour and then took a ferry across the mouth of the River Shannon.  We then drove another hour.  The fields were larger and more lush than yesterday and fewer rock fences.  Yesterday we saw heather and grouse bushes --not today.  We did see the same hydrangeas in a deep rose color with many, many blooms per bush.  Finally we arrived in Kilarney.  The first thing we did was take a jaunting car ride.  Actually it was a covered cart which held 8 people pulled by Oscar (a 7 year old Freisen) and driven by Dan.  It was a fun hour long ride through a large (25,000 acres) national park.  It was very refreshing.  Back to the hotel and a buffet dinner.  

The Bay of Galway

Chuck and I popped out of bed this morning in Ballina and took a short walk.  It was brisk.  First, we visited the beautiful waterfalls near the hotel, then on down the street and looped through a park.  We were ready for breakfast. One of the breakfast offerings was blood pudding (no thanks!).  We meandered south through the countryside.  We saw small pastures of sheep or cows with fences of stone or hedge.  Stopped at Westport which is a village that has been awarded the 'tidy village' award.  The Super Valu grocery was a small but very complete store where we grabbed a coffee to-go and a brown scone for Chuck and wandered up and down the mainstreet.  We got back on the bus and headed to Kylemore Abbey.  We passed peat fields where blocks of peat had been cut and were drying.  Also drove along the only Fijord in Ireland.  There were summer homes on each side of the seawater fijord, mussel beds below barrels floated in the water and lobster beds below platforms. The Kylemore Abbey was a huge stone castle built in 1867 by Dr. Mitchell Henry as a gift to his wife. The castle was purchased by the Benedictine Community in 1920 and turned into a convent and a boarding school for girls.  The school was closed in 2012.  The public rooms on the first floor were open for touring along with a Gothic church.  However, the highlight was the largest walled Victorian garden in Ireland.  It was spectacular especially with the plump pears and apples hanging on the trees along with ripe vegetables, beautiful flowers, and herbs.  We had a lunch of soup and bread.  Chuck had a savory scone this time.  On our way to Galway, we stopped at factory that processed Connemara Marble.  We were shown examples of all the different colors of marble quarried in the area.  Tonight we are in Connemara on the Bay of Galway.  We can look out our window and see the sea.  Today was simply gorgeous weather--blue skies and shirtsleeve weather.  The natives are in shock.  It is time to sign off.  

Monday - west out of Dublin

Last night was our Welcome Dinner.  We had three choices of starters, entree and dessert.  I had salmon on a bed of spinach for entree and Bailey''s Irish Whiskey cheesecake.  Very good.
This morning we left Dublin and meandered westward through Ireland.  We stopped in a small market town for coffee, banking, and potty.  Before lunch we stopped in Stroketown to see an old manor house dating from 1740.  It had its original furnishings and was inhabited until 1981 by the original family and its descendants.  The way the English Lord lived was a stark contrast to the way the Irish workers who worked for them lived in their hovels. In 1850 of the manor, The Lord of the manner was murdered  -small wonder.    A museum dedicated to the Potato Famine was also on the grounds.  To understand Ireland, you really have to understand the famine and also the emigration that followed.  We went on down the road and to a lunch cruise on the Shannon River.  We are staying in Ballina tonight in County Mayo in the Northwest corner of Ireland---near Northern Ireland. Chuck had a Guiness tonight (for CD).  Had a spectacular dinner with pureed harvest vegetable soup, salmon with all kinds of vegetables (including roasted and mashed potatoes), and ice cream with raspberry drizzle in a meringue.  Although we did very little physical, we are still jet lagged and tired.    

Sunday in Dublin

Wow, the world looks better after a good night's sleep.  It is a beautiful day with sun, a blue sky, and cool temps.  After the breakfast buffett, we met Martina and started on our tour.  Visited St. Pat's Cathedral which is huge and very old.  It is not a Catholic Cathedral (news to me).  Also visited Trinity College where the Book of Kells is kept.  The Book of Kells is the four books of the Gospel which was copied and illustrated by monks on the Isle of Ione, Scotland starting in the 9th century.  We saw a page of script and a page of illustrations. By then it was noon.  We were turned lose.  Chuck and I hit a coffee shop for coffee, a panini (tomato, mozarella, and pesto), and a Belgian chocolate/carmel/shortbread (to die for).  We then walked back to the hotel --probably 40 minutes.  It is a fine and colorful day to walk in Dublin.  Today is the day of a huge hurling match in the stadium (82,000 seats). Fans on the way to the stadium are dressed in the colors of their team.  Tipperary (amber and black colors) and Killarney (green and white colors) are big competitors and are battling it out. Hurling players are dressed like soccer players with helmets.  They play with a hockey-like stick with a wider paddle and a small leather covered ball.  It is similar to field hockey, but they don't roll the ball.  Now if the announcer were speaking in English instead of Gaelic, I could tell you even more.  Tonight our whole group (37) has dinner together.  Will report on that tomorrow.  

Dublin, Ireland

We are off on another adventure.  Larry and Nancy delivered us to the Holiday Inn at 4 PM where we met our group from Lindstrom Travel.  Our bus ride to O'Hare was slow due to construction.  Left O'Hare at 8:00 PM for our flight to Dublin.  We got off to a bumpy start when we both ended up with middle seats.  Could have been worse--what if we missed the plane??  Had strong tail winds so the trip only took 6 and a half hours. Our first impressions were very green country, beautiful flowers, and friendly people.  After sitting up to sleep, getting far too little sleep, and far too little coffee, we both felt sleepy and weary.  Our hotel rooms were not ready so we had a cup of coffee and a croissant, met our guide, and headed for the Hop On and Off Bus.  The bus goes around Dublin and stops at 23 tourist attractions (mostly historical or alcoholic).  You can hop on or off at any time.  There was a huge line at both the Guiness brewery and the Jameson former distillery.  We passed on that.  Walked back to the hotel from last stop (half hour walk), but it felt good.  After checking in and a brief nap, and a shower, we checked the internet.  We were saddened to learn that Laura's father-in-law had died.  --a very sad time for their family.  Went out to find a place to eat.  Found Roly's Bistro.  Chuck had Fish and Chips and I had Fish pie (3 kinds of fish in chive sauce, covered with browned potatoes) delicious!  Back to the hotel and a good night's sleep.  

Home again

We are home, but wanted to fill you in on the Tango night and some lasting impressions from our trip. We left the hotel at 8:00 PM.  The Tango Night was actually staged in the part of Buenos Aires where the tango started.  The term 'tango' includes the dance, the music, the songs, the dress, and in general, the whole scene.  The evening started with a meal in a restaurant across the street from the theater.  There were several choices for starters, entrees and dessert.  I chose chicken (bad choice) and Chuck chose steak (good choice).  We both enjoyed the flan served with a little Dulce  leche  (carmel sauce).  The theater was fairly small and our seats were very near the stage.  Five musicians (bass, two guitars, two button accordions) provided the stirring music.  Three couples danced with quick costume changes between numbers.  Then a female singer belted out several tango numbers.  Then a group of four musicians played traditional South American music which included the pan flute, a guitar-like instrument, drums, and another guitar.  The singer came back and then the dancers.  It was a very full program and a fitting finish to our trip.
On Thursday morning, six members of our group left for Iguazu  Falls.  Chuck and I packed and left our bags and carry-ons with the front desk.  We walked, got lost, went to a religious museum, had a coffee at Havana coffee bar, and lunch at El Gatto.  At 5 PM we left for the airport.  Of course, traffic was heavy.  Our plane did not leave until 10:45 PM.  During the 9.5 hour flight, we had a light meal and then breakfast.  I have to admit that I had the best sleep ever on a plane. Landed in Miami around 7 AM.  Walked the entire length of the Miami airport to our American flight to Chicago.  Bus to Rockford.  Nancy and Larry met the bus and brought us home.  Home by 3:10 PM on Friday.  Weary!
Observations:1.  Chile's economy is stable.  Argentina's is not.  Inflation has been running 30% a year. 2. Argentinians are very 'touchy-feely.'  People greet each other with a light hug and a kiss on the cheek.  They frequently touch the arm of the person they are talking to.  3. Chile is 2200 miles long and 160 miles wide with the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Andes on the other.  4.  The Patagonian weather was amazing with its strong winds and rain.  When we moved away from the Fjords a short distance, it was a desert- like climate. 5.  The southern icefield was the biggest in the world --larger than Greenland or Alaska.  Wow, that's enough factoids for this trip.    

Buenos Aires

Yesterday was one of those hurry up and wait days.  We were in ElCalafate---just to refresh your memory and mine.  We left the hotel at 9:00 AM and headed to the airport.  We were early, but that is best.  We checked in and waited. Being this was a domestic flight, we could have liquids in our carry-ons.  That felt a little strange.  However, they weighed carry-ons and also made people fit their carry-ons into a framework to see if it exceeded the size restriction. The exceptions had to be checked in. Boarded our flight for Buenos Aires.  The flight took 3 hours.  Landed and went to our hotel.  Our hotel is in the middle of things and close to several good restaurants.
Last night we joined several others at Il Gatto (the cat) -a Mediterranean restaurant for pasta and wine, of course.  We had a coffee at Havanna, a coffee bar across the street with free Wi-Fi.
Today we toured Buenos Aires.  First to the cemetery of the rich and famous.  Mausoleums were 15 foot high with statuary, lots of granite and marble, etc.  Saw Eva Peron's family mausoleum.  Then on to see the parks and many monuments.  Saw the Catholic Church where the current Pope served on special occasions when he was Archbishop here. Saw the Presidential palace and government buildings. Streets were blocked off and the  Presidential helicopter took off carrying "Mrs. Botox."  Went through the old port area where the immigrants would first live and that now houses arts and crafts.  For lunch, we went to an old restaurant, Tortoni, started in 1858 and reminded me of European coffee houses we have seen.  Were served a typical Argentinian lunch of a thin steak, potato salad, and tomato.  Buenos Aires reminds us of a typical European city with beautiful architecture, clean streets, lots of traffic, busy people and very cosmopolitan with a strong Italian - Spanish flavor. Tonight we go to a Tango show and dinner.  Tomorrow night we fly out.  

Las Glacier National Park

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day --all day.  In a land of wind and rain, sunshine is very precious.  The wind here usually comes from the south and east so people even build their houses with no windows or doors on those sides.
We met our day guide, Pablo, boarded the bus and started into the National Park.  An hour and a half later, we arrived at a lookout.  There was Glacier Perito Moreno.  It is huge--18 miles long and is unusual in that it stays the same size. It is 60 meters high above the water and has twice as much under water so it is very thick. It keeps building at the top with snow and at the same rate it ruptures (the term they use instead of 'calving') at the bottom into the lake.  Finally we arrived at the point directly across from the glacier and started our walk down.  I was surprised that there were metal steps with wooden rails.  After walking down a flight or so, there was an elevator to take us down a couple stories, and then more flights.  We did not go completely to the bottom, but stopped at a lookout and ate our lunch which the hotel had packed.  You could hear and see the glacier rupturing --we were probably 500 feet from the face of the glacier.  Then we started back up.  The elevator operator chuckled at our puffing.  Had a cup of coffee at the bar.  Then the bus took us to an excursion boat, Victoria Argentina, for a close-up view of the glacier.  We were 300 meters away and on side of the glacier.  It is dangerous to get too close because of falling ice and the waves that are created when the ice hits the water.  Back to the bus and back to the hotel.  Last night was our farewell banquet with a delicious dinner of beef filets and plenty of red wine.  Our guide, Nadia, briefed us on the rest of the trip and then we reminisced about everything we have done so far.   

On the road to ElCalafate, Argentina

This was a day on the road.  We left the hotel at 9:00 AM.  It was cloudy and the Massive was again draped in clouds.  It took us about two hours to get out of the park on that bumpy, washboard road.  We stopped numerous times for the photographers to take pictures of the guanacos--in small groups, herds, males by themself silhouetted on a ridge on the outlook for other males and pumas--their main predator, young ones, old ones, grazing, running, kissing.  You get it we had plenty of photo ops.
At the border we stopped for lunch.  It was the basic Chilean stew.  Start with a clear broth, add a chicken wing, half a potato, a piece of butternut squash,  a 1" slice of corn on the cob, and carrot pieces. Cook until almost done, but not quite.  Pass minced parsley and cilantro to sprinkle on top.  We had the beef version of this the other day.  After lunch, we passed through Chilean passport check.  Drove a few miles and entered Argentina through their passport check.  Drove two hours to a bathroom/snack stop.  Drove another two hours to ElCalafate.  The big hills are covered with tan grass (it is the end of summer here) and are perfect camo for guanacos.  There are clumps of grass, bushes, and something that looks like sagebrush.  There were cattle and sheep ranches along the way. So now we are in ElCAlafate.  This is another haven for trekkers.  They are walking up and down the street.  It would be easy to imagine that you are in Aspen or Jackson Hole.  Chuck and I walked around a bit and then found a nice pizza place.
On the way here today our guide tried to explain the political system in Argentina.  At this time the Argentine peso is very unstable.  It was a good lesson for those of us who take the dollar for granted.  

All Day in the Park

Yesterday on the way in to the park the guide kept saying, "You are so lucky that the day is clear and you can see the Massive (the large mountain formation)."  It was beautiful with all the light playing on it at sunset.  It was beautiful this morning as the sun rose and the mountain looked pink, white, etc.   Then the clouds came and by mid-afternoon the Massive disappeared behind a cloak of clouds. Today has been cloudy, but NO rain and NO wind so that was great.
This area is a destination for backpackers, trekkers, mountain climbers, and hikers of all ages and descriptions and from all parts of the world.  They stay in hostels, hotels, pitch tents, stay in small cabins in the park etc.  The season is almost over so they are hurrying to get some climbs in.  We can see more snow on the mountains every day.
We left after breakfast and drove in a northwesterly direction.  (This hotel is located at the far southern end of the park.)  After an hour or so--the roads are very bumpy so travel is slow--we left the bus and hiked a kilometer to see Grey Glacier and a lake.  It was a long walk for this lady. Eventually, we stopped for lunch at a rustic lodge set up for tourist.  They were barbecuing steaks, chicken and salmon over a wood fire.  Nice spot for food and to warm up.  Then we took off again and drove a short way to a waterfalls.  Got off the bus and walked about 15 minutes to the waterfalls. Got some good pictures.  Saw a fox on the way.  Other than the fox and a few birds, this was a non-animal day.  Back to the hotel about 4:30 PM.  Tomorrow we leave this park and Chile.

Torres del Paines National Park

We are here:  sitting in our hotel room looking out at a spectacular view of the Massive in Torres del Paines National Park.  But let me back up and tell you about the day and night.  By bedtime last night we were docked in Puerto Natales so that meant that we didn't have that sweet rocking of the boat to sleep by.  We had breakfast and were on the bus by 9:30 AM.  Drove from the dock to PN (population 20,000, second biggest city in Patagonia) and drove around a bit.  By 10:00 AM our guide, Andrea, told us that we were taking a walking tour across the square which we did.  Then we walked to a Catholic girls' school.  (Vantage had never done that before so there was apprehension on the part of the guides and also the school.)  Anyway the principal greeted us warmly, told us that she had been a foreign exchange student in the state of Delaware many years ago, and spoke excellent English.  First we went into the classroom of 8th grade girls who giggled a lot, but were very welcoming.  When we were introduced as being from near Chicago, there was an outburst.  Apparently they knew about Chicago from some Disney movie.  Next we went to the sixth grade class and then the kindergarten.  It was a nice school with good facilities.  The children were well cared for and had beautiful black shiny hairy.  The principal wanted more information from Nadia, our guide, to see if they could have other visits.  Oh, by the way, a TV station happened to be there doing a story and captured us on film, too.  

Next, we walked down the street to Nandu, a souvenir/coffee shop/Wi-Fi hot spot.  Had a bite to eat and checked our Email.  We do like to hear from our friends and family.  After that Chuck and I walked around a bit. It was sunny and windy, but no rain for the whole day.  At 1:30 PM we got back on the bus.  Enroute to the park, we stopped for the bathroom a couple times and for photo ops a number of times.  We were driving through ranch country with sheep or hereford cattle in the fields.  The topography was like Wyoming. There were numerous guanaco along the way.  They are from the camel family, wild, and smaller than llama and alpaca.  Sometimes we saw herd of 50 or more together.  They liked to take dust baths in shallow, round dust bowls (about a meter across) that they had developed.  Also saw rheas (small ostrichs) a few times.  The last three hours of the trip were over a washboard country gravel or broken blacktop road.  Wow, was it ROUGH.  The Massive is the name for the mountain formation that this park is built around.  We could see it all day long and are still not that close.  Tomorrow we tour the park.

Should tell you about last night's dinner.  The Farewell banquet was actually a buffet.  It started with the captain giving a speech and then toasting with Chilean champagne. The appetizer and salad table included many kinds of seafood.  We have eaten more avocado and king crab on the ship than in the previous year.  Entrees also included seafood, chicken, and beef.  Small scallops with a special sauce were served in shells.  It was heavenly.  The dessert table included flan and other beautifully presented and delicious sweets.   

Wind and Weather

During the night we sailed Montonas Fjord.  We woke up to high winds and the boat rocking.  It was a real experience to take a shower while swaying back and forth, holding on to the grab bar with one hand and sudsing up with the other.  After breakfast it had calmed down a little. Chuck decided that he was up the challenge. He donned a waterproof jacket and pants and headed to the small open boat. They went to the foot of Alsina Glacier (at least 1000' thick) ain a small bay with waterfalls on either side and an enormous mountain behind. Of course, it was still windy and raining. He came back in a short time wet on the outside and feeling a little beat up. He was dry and warm under that outer layer. 

The next excursion was to Bernal Glacier but we decided that we could really seen plenty glaciers from the boat. Meanwhile we watched our boat take on 'sweet water' from a rushing brook off a waterfalls. While eating lunch, we heard stories of people getting soaked while on the outing. This is a rather lazy afternoon of packing for tomorrow, getting ready for the farewell banquet, drinking tea, looking out the window at the beautiful scenery, and taking a nap. 

Glaciers, Glaciers, Glaciers

The Skorpios III sailed during the night so we awoke to new scenery.  This was to be our first day of up-close glacier viewing so we were apprehensive.  Following directions we were dressed warmly.  I counted 4 layers on the bottom and 6 on top with outside layers being water-proof.  We were given life-jackets (not the ones in our cabins - those are for emergencies) and assisted on to a small transport boat with an outboard motor.  There were plenty of young strong crew to assist us on and off the boat.  We disembarked on a terminal moraine (where the iceberg had ended and left behind rocks and sand).  We walked a half mile one way: first on sand (ground rock), then moss, lichen, small alpine flowers, and then very rocky, treacherous terrain.  We ended up very close to Amalia Glacier.  After a good look, we started back.  I was lucky to have Chuck help me.  In the meantime, a glacier had calved and the ice field was so thick that our little boat could not get close.  Crew members had to wade out with a pick ax and break up ice so the boat could get closer. We boarded the small boat just as it started to rain.  Off the boat, off with the life jackets, and then lunch.  Around 1:15 PM, we headed out again.  On with the life jackets, get on the boat, and head to ElBrujo Glacier.  Actually we just climbed up a slick rock covered with lichen, had our picture taken by a glacier and got back on the small boat.  Back to our big boat, off with the life jackets, and have a cup of hot tea and some treats, of course.  Around 5:15 PM we boarded the ice-breaker Constantino.  It had two levels and the lower one was covered and heated.  We moved through a very thick ice field.  You could hear big pieces of ice (from the size of a 5 gallon bucket to the size of a car or bigger) hitting against the boat at all times.  During the two hours we were on the ice breaker, we saw dolphins swimming along side the boat, sea lions were playing on the banks, and we saw Cormorants on the side of a cliff.  We saw at least 8 glaciers --sometimes you could look down a fijord and see 6 at one.  We also saw multiple waterfalls.  We were served drinks with glacier ice.  Headed back to the Skorpios !!! around 8 PM.  Dinner at 9 PM.  This has been a full day. 

From the Strait of Magellan to the Chilean Fijord

From the Strait of Magellan to the Chilean Fijords--

We left Punta Arenas at 9:30 AM. and headed north  to Puerto Natales.  The day was very windy (think the windiest March day you can remember). Temperature was in the 40's but felt much colder.  It alternated between sunny, five minutes later there was a very dark cloud and rain, then a rainbow, then clouds, etc.  I think that is the norm.  . The terrain was rolling hills with short grass --think Wyoming and western Nebraska.  Many sheep are grown in this area. As we drove through the countryside, we were on the lookout for different birds and animals.  We spotted several Rhea (a small ostrich).  The bus driver spotted a condor flying overhead riding the thermals (larger than the California condor).  Chuck saw guanaco (relative of llama and camel, but size of small doe)..  By lunch time we arrived at the Estancia Rio Patagonian Ranch., established in 1895.  First we toured the farm house and met the grandmother ,  Then saw a cowboy and his dogs herd the sheep. We then met the grandson and   went to the barn and saw a sheep being sheared.and saw the wool bundled.  All of this was followed by a meal of meat barbecued over a wood fire --lamb, sausage, beef, chicken--,  potatoes, rice, sliced beets, buns, salad of corn, peas, and carrots, chicken consomme, red wine, coffee, and Mousse.  We were served just as the crowd from the Celebrity cruise ship arrived.  Good timing.  Soon we were back on the bus.  Arrived at the Skorpios III at 3:30 PM.  If you have ever boarded a cruise ship, you would appreciate the boarding process we experienced. The bus drove on the dock and stopped 10 feet from the boat.  A crew person got on the bus and handed out keys while the bus driver unloaded our suitcases.  We got off the bus and went directly to our rooms where our luggage was waiting.  This boat has 40 cabins and 5 suites, on four decks ----so just the right size to navigate the fijords.  We had orientation in the dining room and were served tea before the boat embarked.  We are now on our journey.  I can see snow on top the moutains.  Dinner is at 9:00 PM.  Tomorrow is a full day of glacier exploration. 

Greetings from Punta Arenas

Our wake-up call was at 2:30 AM, suitcases out by 2:45, then breakfast and a bus ride to the Airport. Arrived at the airport by 4:00 AM.  We were to board at 5:30 for the 6:00 plane from Santiago to Punta Arenas.  We were standing in line to board when suddenly Nadia said, "Plan B.  Please be seated."  We all sat down and she told us that they were bringing another plane around.  "Remember this is South America."  She repeated her mantra from the first day:  "Be flexible, eager, and positive." The first plane finished boarding. Another plane arrived and filled completely.  These were not small planes - Airbus 322-  so where did all the people come from?  Anyway, we were in the air by 6:30.  Arrived in Punta Arenas around 9:30.  The airport and area around it are rather scruffy.  Reminds you of the saying, "It isn't the end of the earth, but you can see it from here."  We are 600 miles across the water from Antarctica The guide said that the town has 120,000 people, but it certainly doesn't look like that.  The houses are brightly colored, built on very small pieces of land, and usually connected to one another.  Because of the Strait of Magellan, this was part of an important trade route.  All that changed with the building of the Panama Canal.  The discovery of petroleum after WWII helped as has the cruise industry.  Today there were two ships in dock:  Holland America and a Princess.  They each have one more run before the end of the cruise season here.
We are in a beautiful hotel, Dreams.  It is a contemporary glass structure on the waters' edge.  So far we have had a bus/walking tour of the area and lunch.  Will have a group dinner tonight.  We have been instructed to dress warmly and waterproof tomorrow.  This area usually has at least 30 mph winds, often higher.  It is also rainy. After a day of exploring tomorrow, we board Scorpio for our days of glacier watching.  There is no internet on board.  Today I am enjoying free internet in our room--what a luxury!

Day One/Two in Chile

Day one and two in Chile:  We arrived in Santiago, Chile around 7:00 AM.  From the air, we could see the sunrise over the Andes Mountains and Santiago squished in the strip of land between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean.  It is a beautiful summer day here.  We have checked into our hotel, a Marriott in downtown, and taken a nap.  We are ready to explore and eat lunch.  We have already met our guide, Nadia, and some of our group.  There are only 16 in this group - a very nice size. 

Our plane trip was 'uneventful'--the best kind.  I promise to not complain about security searches or sleeping sitting upright.  Just wanted to let you know that we arrived and so did our luggage.  

Later--we met our group at 3 PM. After orientation, we took a panoramic city tour. Santiago is a clean city of six million people which is about a third of the population of the country. At 7:30 we met for dinner. Dinner is usually served at 9:30 or 10 so they made an exception for us. Beef  was served.  Bedtime came early. 

Day three in Chile

Day Three

Our day started out with a buffet breakfast. Fortunately we didn't have to meet the bus until 10 AM. We still are trying to catch up on sleep and figure out where everything is.  We drove about 45 minutes to Conchay Toro,  a winery that was established in 1883. Our drive took us through the suburbs and out into the foothills. The setting at the foot of the Andes was perfect. The day was beautiful- about 75 degrees, sunny, and a light breeze. We took a walking tour of the grounds, saw the original summer home from the outside, walked into the vineyard, sampled different grapes, visited the cellars, and saw the devil!  Yes, this winery is famous for Casillero del Diablo--sells for $300/bottle in the USA and only $110 at the winery. And NO we didn't buy any but did sample one white and two reds.  Back on the bus for another ride. When we pulled up to the restaurant, our guide quickly explained that this was where the locals ate.  She described the architecture as a cross between Seven Dwarfs and Gaudy. It was quite unique with chicken cooked over a wood fire, impanades with cheese, Pisco sours (a Chilean drink similar to a Margarita), potatoes, salad, ice cream served in their version of a waffle cup, and then a tiny chocolate cup filled with Amaretto (one fellow thought that it was just enough for communion!). Back to the bus for the ride home. The rhythm of the bus, the warm day, full bellies, and alcohol made a very quiet ride back. 

A couple small world stories. While talking with Diane today, we discovered that she was on the Africa trip immediately after us. A Vantage film crew started with our trip and ended with theirs. At lunch, I sat next to Roberta and discovered that they were on the Vantage North Sea

Cruise with us- where we got caught in a storm and lost power. 

The day before we arrived, the internet in the hotel went 'kaput'. If I find WiFi tonight, I will send this. Nadia, our guide has told us that there will be no internet in Puntas Arenas.  I will write and try to send when I can. However, I have accepted that sending blogs will be a challenge on this trip. 

Tomorrow our wake-up call is 2:30 AM for a very early flight to Puntas Arenas.