The Rest of the Story

Chuck and I have reflected on our trip and have some thoughts:

• We have been asked what we heard about Greece's economic crisis.  We didn't hear as much in the country as you hear here. Heard how Greece has operated with political cronyism--"I'll get you a government job if you vote for me."  That has resulted in far too many government employees. Not enough agricultural or manufacturing output. Greece's financial problems have been long stranding.
• Turkey claims to be secular.  Observers are skeptical because the President and Vice-President's wives wear scarves in public. Is the country headed towards being a Muslim country? Turkey is the most liberal of the countries in the Mid-East.   
• It was sunny every day of our trip except for a few clouds on the day we left Istanbul.
• We were impressed with the layers and layers of history. Makes our country look young.
• The Ancients had a lot of knowledge and technical skills. It is impressive to look at domes, construction, aqua ducts, and road that have survived centuries.
• We were immersed in the food of Greece and Turkey. They didn't feed us 'American food.'
• We liked the Road Scholar program and would recommend them to others.

A Bump on the way home

Donna's return flights were different than Sharon's.  On Wednesday morning Donna left the hotel at 6:30 AM and traveled to the airport with two other RS travelers, then on to Paris, Detroit, and Chicago where Al (Sharon's husband) met her.  We left the hotel at 9:00 AM and traveled to the airport with about 10 others.  At check-in we were told that our plane had been delayed.  We left Istanbul an hour and fifteen minutes late.  On arrival at JFK in New York, we went through passport control, picked up our bags which were about the last ones off, and went through customs. We re-checked our bags where we were told that if we ran we could make our flight to Chicago.  Sharon started race walking from the far end of one concourse to the far end of another concourse. Chuck followed and I trailed along.  When we reached the gate, the doors were shut and we were out of luck.  The man looked at his watch and said, "It is 6:46 and your plane left at 6:45."  I'm sure it was still at the end of the jetway.  We were exhausted and sweating (again).  Went to the service counter and got vouchers for taxi rides, hotel, and food.  Caught a taxi to the Allegra Hotel which was 30 minutes away on Long Beach on Long Island.  It was a beautiful hotel on the board walk.  We arrived in the dark and left at 5:30 AM in the dark. Had breakfast at the airport, boarded our plane, and landed in Chicago.  Sharon's daughter, Kristi met us.  Chuck and I caught the bus to Rockford.  Nancy and Larry met us and we had lunch at Steak 'N Shake.
It is good to be home and breathe in this cool Illinois air! 

Our last day in Turkey

We started off at 9 am today so we had a chance to rest a little more.  Visited Hagia Sophia which started as a Christian church from the 3rd century to the 14th century.  It was one of the largest and finest in Christendom.  It was cover with mosaic depicting Bible scenes.  After Constantinople (later Istanbul) fell to the turks, the walls of the church were white washed and the church was converted to a mosque. Four minarets and flying buttresses (to prop up the huge dome) were added. Later it was turned into a museum.  The place was body to body. Six cruise ships were in the harbor--many diverted from their Egypt stops.  Had lunch near the harbor. Visited the spice market (bought whole nutmeg and whole cloves).  Went for a hour and a half cruise in the Golden Horn in the Bosphorus--up the European side and down the Asian side.  Finished the day with a hour and a half in the Grand Bazaar--hundreds of shops selling many of the same things -shawls, tee shirts, jewelry, etc. It was amazing to me how many shops would take either Turkish lira, Euros, or dollars or a combination or a credit card.  Tonight was our farewell dinner at a nearby restaurant.  A lovely dinner to end our tour of Greece and Turkey.  Tomorrow we all head home. 

Touring Ancient Istanbul

The weather has been just a little cooler and very pleasant. We wake up with a call to prayer at 5:45 a.m. We started the day with a lecture by a local professor. She told us about the urban development of this city through the years  Very Good. Took a bus through the more conservative part of the city.  Saw many burkahs. On one street (several blocks on both sides of the street) we saw wedding dresses in the windows --all strapless with skirts of fur, feathers, sequins, lace, etc.  Saw women in burkahs looking at the wedding dresses - what a contrast. It was the first day of school so saw many mothers taking and picking up their children.  Lunch was at a restaurant where we sat outside on a vine covered terrace - very nice- featuring Ottoman food.  Visited the Church of Chora next door which had been a Christian church with many lovely mosaics of Bible scenes on the wall which were then covered with white paint when the building was a mosque. Then spent the afternoon at Topkapi Palace, set along the Bosphorus in a 3 mile by 2 mile campus--several buildings which were occupied from 1453 until 1823. Saw many thrones (elaborately decorated), many jewels, the spoils of war, the harem,the gardens etc. Had dinner on the roof  terrace of this lovely hotel--could see the Bosphorus in one direction and the Blue Mosque in the other.  Now it is time to go to breakfast--the most unusual of the trip featuring dried fruits, olives, veggies,  fruit leather, nuts, yogurts, breads, cheeses, etc.

Greetings from Istanbul

Left the hotel early, bussed to Izmir Airport (50 min.) which was a madhouse. I got the last boarding pass and ended up in seat 1C--never sat in the front row before! The flight was less than one hour.  Istanbul is the only city in the world that spans two continents. The older side is in Europe. The newer side is in Asia. They are connected by a bridge and many ferries. (While in Ephesus, we were in Asia. While in Istanbul, we were in Europe.)  After a brief tour, we ate lunch at a restaurant that specializes in Turkish meatballs --delicious.  Then we walked to the huge underground cistern (56 steps down).  It is no longer part of the city water system. In the past it was kept full of water in case the city was under siege.  From there we walked to the Hippedrome --the site of ancient Roman horse races. All that remains are two obelisks.  Then on to the Blue Mosque (built in the 1600s)  and its six minarets. Chuck had on shorts and had to wear a shawl (skirt). I took no pictures so you only have my word for it. It was body to body in the Mosque.  Then we checked into our hotel which is very near the Bosphorous- a narrow very strategic waterway that connects the Mediterranean and Black Sea.  Chuck and I walked along it this evening.  It was wonderfully cool, very breezy, and the water was filled with all kinds and sizes of fishing boats, freighters, evening dinner cruises, big cruise ships, etc.  Tonight we had dinner on the roof top terrace of the hotel.  It was delightfully cool.  We had to wear sweaters!

Exploring Ephesus

The world looked better after a good night's sleep.  Left the hotel early to see Ephesus while it was still cool.  Ephesus--a massive ancient city most vibrant at the time of St. Paul-was very crowded today. It has a  huge amount of ruins which have been partially reconstructed--the most famous ruins in Turkey. After 3 hours we visited the Ephesus museum where recovered original statues, mosaics, etc are displayed. Then we went to the carpet factory for lunch.  It was the most idyllic setting and meal.  We were seated at a long table on the lawn.  Started with delicious starters and then skewers of chicken, lamb, and beef.  Dessert was fruit raised on the owner's farm -melon, grapes, and peaches.  Then the owner showed us his carpet operation. He shared what he had learned from his U.S. A. college education, from his father and from his mother. Told us how he employs 2000 women who weave carpets in their own homes. He teaches the women to read, to handle their money, hygiene, etc.  They only work two hours a day. Women who work long hours have short careers.  Two hours work also allows them time to take care of their families. Several bought rugs.  Later we listened to a lecture on Graffiti in the Ancient World and the stories it told.  We got back to the hotel in time for a walk on the beach and to watch the sun set. .   

Arriving in Turkey

Yesterday was a very long day and I didn't blog.  We had our luggage down by 6:10 AM, breakfast, bus to the ferry. Boarded the ferry and left Greece by 8:00 AM .  Arrived in Marmaris, Turkey around 10 AM. Our new guide is Ardos.  The bus left the harbor and started up the mountains.  Stopped at Euromous the temple of Zeus.  Continued through agricultural areas with corn, hay, wheat, lots of fruit trees, vegetable gardens, melons, citrus, cotton, cows, sheep, goats.  Looks like more rainfall than Greece.  Lunch at Didyma---splendid variety of vegetables, fish complete with skin, head, and tail.  Also fresh figs for dessert.  Visited the Temple of Apollo.  It was huge.  Back on the road to Kusadasi.  Visited the home (now a chapel) of Mother Mary -where she lived until she died.  Finally arrived at our hotel = 8 pm.  We were all tired and grouchy. The hotel is very large. The dining room is huge with the longest buffet line you can imagine--not a good scene for weary travelers. We are right on the shore of the Aegean Sea. 

Climbing another Acropolis

We were on the bus by 8:00 AM (a very punctual group) and headed down the coast in a southwesterly direction.  Drove an hour to Lindos, a small village nestled along the Aegean Sea. All the buildings were gleaming white.The Acropolis is surrounded by huge fort which was built by the Knights of St. John in 1300-1500 AD after the crusades. Started climbing to the Acropolis--many, many steps, no handrails, rough wall on one side and drop-off on the other. Four hundred feet straight up! Donna opted out--smart lady! Oh, was it hot. The view was breathtaking - the village, the sea, The Port and church of St. Paul. (St. Paul reached Rhodes in 57 A. D.) Then the walk down--by this time there were lots and lots of tourist coming up.  We made it.  Stopped for lunch at a lovely seaside restaurant on the way back. 

A Breezy Day on the Isle of Rhodes

Landed at 9:45 PM at the Rhodes Airport.  Four pieces of luggage were missing.  We flew on a small plane: capacity 29 of which 22 were our tour group. They simply ran out of space for all the bags. (They arrived around noon today.)  Fortunately the four of us had our bags.  Our group is really getting acquainted: offering help to those who need it, helping with luggage, etc. This morning we drove around Rhodes. Took us up to the Acropolis.  Saw the stadium and the odum.  The bus drove  the outer wall of the medieval city (Old Town) then let us off.  Alex guided us through Old Town which is a combination of restored buildings, souvenir shops, cafes, etc.  Enjoyed a wine tasting. Then set off on our own. Chuck and I got lost on the way back to the hotel. The new Celebrity cruise ship:  Equinox was in the harbor.  It holds 4500 passengers.  Also 3 other ships.  What a commotion!

Off to Rhodes

Last night we went to a dinner theater in a small village high in  the hills above Heraklion. There were 16 people to a long table and there were hundreds of us tourist there --mostly Russian .  The entertainment was by a dance school--some were very good, some were learning. After two plus hours we left, we had had plenty of music, food, and drink.  Today we explore and then fly to Rhodes late in the day. Probably won't blog again today so will post some random observations. (1) I am fascinated by the variety of women's shoes at the archaeological sites and very steep climbs: tennis shoes, sports sandals with enclosed toes (me), very high heels, 4 inch wedgies, ballet slippers, flat flip flops. (2) To come on this trip you were suppose to be able to walk 2 miles on uneven ground over the course of a day. Most agree that they should have encouraged us to run up and down steep hills in 90 degree heat and then we would really be ready. (3) During tours we wear 'whispers' --a small sound system so we can hear our guide better. Alex, our guide, is a rather heavy fellow so we also get to hear his huffing and puffing as we climb hills--in addition to our own!

Exploring Knossos

This morning Chuck and I took an early walk along the seawall and saw the sunrise.  Walked around the Venetian bastion (1400 AD) which guarded the inner harbor.  Back to the hotel for breakfast.  Left at 9:15 AM for a short bus ride to Knossos.  We visited a large site of a Minoan village (2600-1100 BC). After its collapse (earthquake?), a large multi-story palace was built (1700-1350 BC) on top the ruins.  How large?  There was storage for 80,000 liters of olive oil and/or wine.  They used wood and stone in construction and a lot of dark red in decoration.  There were many tourists there.  Drat those cruise ships! We ate lunch on an outdoor veranda of our guide's favorite restaurant.  Also saw a demonstration of how to make and cook (dolmades) stuffed grapeleaves.  Ate some, too.  This was the first time we had lamb as the entree --it was good.  The bus took us back to a museum (temporary, but it has been there for 8 years) of artifacts from the archealogical site that we had just visited.  We were on our own to walk back to the hotel.

Ancient Ruins in Crete

 At this point in the trip I hear lots of conversation about laundry.  Ours is flapping in the wind on the balcony.  With the bright sunshine and nice breeze it should be dry soon. Heraklion, which is the capital of Crete, is located on the north shore of Crete.  The Atrion hotel is two blocks from the water and two blocks from city center.  Today we drove through the mountains to the southern shore of Crete. We passed many olive  trees and vineyards.  Also saw large patches of cabbage and a few sheep.  The valleys are dry, but very fertile.  Driving is much like in Mexico--pass when you need to--oncoming traffic will move. First we visited Gortys where we saw the ruins of a 4th -5th century AD basilica.  Tablets were recovered at this site that had the code of ethics on them.  There were also ruins of a forum--where Romans were entertained and argued their politics.  Then on to Phaestos which was set high on a hill.  The ruins were of a Minoan palace from 1500 B.C. It was huge and was a multi-story building in its time.  By this time, it was very hot when we were standing in the ruins and in the sun.  When we were in the shade, it was nice with a pleasant breeze.  We left there and went to Matala for lunch which was a hippie hangout in the 60's.  The hippies lived in the natural caves surrounding a beautiful bay in the Libyan Sea (No, we didn't see a dictator running for his life.)  There were topless bathers enjoying the clear waters.  After lunch at a seaside restaurant, we shopped a little and then headed back to the hotel.  More laundry.   

Leaving Athens

Suitcases out at 7:15 AM.  Breakfast, check-out of the hotel, and leave on the bus at 8:00 AM.  It was early Saturday morning so the city was quiet.  We visited the Museum of the Acropolis --a new museum (2 years old) at the foot of the hill below the Acropolis. The museum was built on pillars set among ruins that are being excavated. The museum floor is glass so you can look down and see the excavation. It has many ruins (pottery, statues, columns, etc) from the Acropolis buildings.  A statue might be mostly original with a head that was actually a copy because the original of the head is in the Vatican museum (or the British museum or some other museum). Things like that make you understand why there are bad feelings between countries that just don't go away.  After a couple hours, we drove down the coast for an hour.  Visited Sounion which was the temple of Poseidon.  Then we drove up the coast to a seafood restaurant where we enjoyed lunch.  Had salad, bread, cucumber/garlic dip, deep fried zucchini, fried calamari, fried fish, potatoes, watermelon, coffee, etc.  Drove a half hour to the airport and flew to Crete.  When we arrived here, we found out that the bus was dropping us by the waterfront and we had to hoof it up hill with our luggage.  Fortunately all four of us had small bags and are fleet of foot. 
About the internet---the first night I blogged from the hotel, the next time from a cafe, the next time from the same cafe, but the blog didn't post (did that tonight), and tonight I am in the lobby of the hotel and wi-fi is free.  What a treat. 

Visiting the Antiquities of Greece

Left Athens at 7:30 AM and drove through the countryside:  blue sky, blue water, white buildings, barren hills with cedars-then cypress. Stopped for a coffee stop and looked at the Corinth Canal.  Drove by the Agean Sea - saw a deep bay where subs came in during WWII.  Now there is sea farming there.  Visited Epidavros: an early theater that seated 15,000 people.  Drove another hour and visited Mycenae, an early civilization that evolved between the 16th and 12th century BC.  At both sites, we walked straight up hill for quite a while --as if our legs weren't crying from yesterday's walk to the Acropolis! After lunch, we headed back to Athens --stopping at a ceramics factory on the way.  So far the amounts of food have been huge.  The first day we cleaned our plates.  Now we are sharing or asking for smaller servings.  Tonight we pack.  Oh, last night we went to the 7th floor of our hotel and were able to see the Parthenon (beautifully lighted) on the Acropolis --a neat way to end the day. 

From the Acropolis

Our day started with a fantastic breakfast buffet which included olives, all kinds of baked goods, meats, egg dishes, yogurts, nuts, fruits, and more topped with strong Greek coffee.  Our lecture was given by, Amy Picus, an American cultural anthropology professor who has lived here for ten years.  She talked about the dramatic changes in the Greek way of life since 1960 --going from agricultural/village life to living in the cities with credit cards, debt, and a country in economic crisis.  Very interesting and helpful. Then we took a short city tour and headed for the Acropolis.  The Acropolis is actually a group of ancient building perched on a high hill overlooking Athens. We walked up many, many marble steps worn smooth by the tread of thousands of people per day for many years.  We were fortunate -- only one cruise ship was in harbor.  Many times 6 to 10 thousand will be up there between 9 and noon---if 6 or more cruise ships are in harbor.  Our guide would stop periodically and share information about the Acropolis (which means a political building on the highest point) --the buildings, the myths, all built by paid laborers and over 2500 years old.  Of course, construction and restoration was going on.  Scaffolding surrounded parts  of  the Parthenon.   The view of Athens was spectacular. The morning was warm, but the breeze on top the hill was great.  (John and Beth:  we think we spotted the restaurant, the church, and the hill, but it looks like we won't have time to try it out.) After looking around, we started to carefully walk down to the bus. Athens traffic today was light.  There was a taxi strike.  Our guide and bus driver kept us out of the strike and commotion, but we could hear it.  Many motorcycles, mopeds, and smart cars are used for transport. After a delicious lunch (Spinach Pie, Greek salad, Moussaka, Baklava, Fruit, and coffee), we went to Athens National Archaeological Museum.  Interesting, but my body was more interested in a nap.  Jet lag rules. Back to the hotel for a nap.  Today we are in an internet cafe enjoying a glass of wine and the internet. Dinner later in the hotel.
Climate is warm --roughly 90 degrees -- much like California. 

Arrived in Athens, Greece

Met Sharon and Donna in O'Hare at the departure gate. Our Air France flight was fine --roomier than most.  A good dinner and then lights out for some sleep.  Landed in Paris 70 minutes ahead of schedule thanks to a good tail wind.  Found our connecting flight and waited some more.  The only hitch in our travels was Chuck's problems with security.  After a full body scan in O'Hare, he was patted down and was scolded for having a handkerchief in his pocket.  In Paris he was patted down twice.  It was almost like he fit the profile of someone they were looking for.    Arrived in Athens around 2:45 PM.  We are 8 hours ahead of home.  We were met at the airport by Road Scholar transportation and whisked into city center and a nice hotel.  Now for a hot shower and a little nap before the Welcome Dinner.

Packing for Greece and Turkey

September is getting close and we are getting ready to travel.  Chuck and I will be joined by our friend, Sharon Swiglo.  Sharon's travel friend, Donna, will be going with us,too, This time we are traveling with Road Scholar, formerly Elderhostel.  There is to be more emphasis on learning --we are looking forward to the new experience.  I am saying that 'tongue in cheek'.  Chuck is a good researcher for trips.  I am not so studious. 
We leave on Tuesday, September 6.  We will blog when we have the opportunity.  Getting on the Internet is not always predictable.  It is fun to tell you about our experiences --helps us remember when we get home, too.