Our last dinner in Spain was great. In advance we had selected what we wanted as a first course. Chuck and I had chosen a fish soup. It was a tasty broth filled with all kinds of seafood: shrimp, scallops, crab, mussels, fish, etc. The soup was the most delicious dish we had had on the entire trip. For the main course, Chuck, Christine, and Jerry had lamb shanks. John had salmon. Beth and I had suckling pig. The pig was good with a crackling skin. Had their version of baked Alaska for dessert. We were serenaded by three guitar players who were great entertainers. Also sold us their CD.
By 8:00am, we were on the bus to the airport. The Madrid airport is HUGE. After we went through security, there was a digital sign that said that it was 23 minutes to our gate. We took three sets of escalators down, rode a subway to the next terminal, took three sets of escalators up, took moving sidewalks and it still took us 23 minutes. Whew!
Our flight home was punctuated with two hours of very turbulent flying. But we made it safely and that is what is important.
On Friday, Chuck and I went to Madison to see Caitlin. She was making a very speedy recovery. What a blessing!
Monday, September 27, 2010
Through the Mountains
First, we have to start with 'dinner' last night. John and Beth had spotted Don Giovanni's which the guide had recommended. We got there at 8:00 when they opened for dinner--just a block or so up the street--, we were told to come back at 9:00pm. We decided to explore other options. On the way back to the hotel, we saw a tapas bar with tables on the sidewalk. It was hot so sitting outside had lots of appeal. We all started with a little wine. John and Beth ordered salad (or so they thought) and got cold soup--very good. Christine and Jerry ordered cold soup (or so they thought) and got a beautiful vegetable salad. Chuck ordered an open-faced blue cheese and anchovy sandwich. I ordered smoked salmon. The bread has all been crusty and very good. Also had brie and honey --sticky, sticky, but oh so good. It was a great experience.
Today was suppose to be cooler because we are at a higher elevation. Left Madrid (the city was all cleaned up and very tidy this morning) and drove through the rugged Sierra de Guadarrama mountains on the way to Segovia. As we entered Segovia, we could see the 2000 year old Roman aqueduct that brought water to the city. This whole area looks like Southern California with hillsides that are summer tan and grass and flowers that are flourishing with sprinklers. Easy to understand why the Spanish settled California and the Southwest. We walked UP to the cathedral and then DOWN to Alcazar--a medieval castle about a 1000 years old with a drawbridge, moat, throne room, armour, etc. Time was short so we had to hurry back --Up to the Cathedral and Down to the Bus. We were exhausted because it was hot and longer than we had anticipated. On the road for another hour or so through fields of wheat and sunflowers. Then we arrived in Avila a walled city where St. Theresa founded the Order of Carmelites. Had a hurried lunch. We all had about the same thing: salad or cold soup, pork tenderloin (tasted like fried ham) or breaded ham/cheese, fries, good bread, water, wine, and flan or ice cream. Very good. Back to the bus and back on the road. By 4pm, we arrived at Salamanca where we will spend the night. After a walk around town, we will eat dinner at 8:30pm. We are getting grooved into the different schedule a little bit. Siesta time helps justify when we fall asleep on the bus. Today we were in the state of Castile. It is known for ham and pork.
The differences in the using the Internet are amusing. The first day we used our netbook and paid 6 Euros --from noon to midnight. The second day we went to the Internet cafe and paid .9 Euros ($1.15) for 45 minutes. Today we are using our netbook in our room for free.
Today was suppose to be cooler because we are at a higher elevation. Left Madrid (the city was all cleaned up and very tidy this morning) and drove through the rugged Sierra de Guadarrama mountains on the way to Segovia. As we entered Segovia, we could see the 2000 year old Roman aqueduct that brought water to the city. This whole area looks like Southern California with hillsides that are summer tan and grass and flowers that are flourishing with sprinklers. Easy to understand why the Spanish settled California and the Southwest. We walked UP to the cathedral and then DOWN to Alcazar--a medieval castle about a 1000 years old with a drawbridge, moat, throne room, armour, etc. Time was short so we had to hurry back --Up to the Cathedral and Down to the Bus. We were exhausted because it was hot and longer than we had anticipated. On the road for another hour or so through fields of wheat and sunflowers. Then we arrived in Avila a walled city where St. Theresa founded the Order of Carmelites. Had a hurried lunch. We all had about the same thing: salad or cold soup, pork tenderloin (tasted like fried ham) or breaded ham/cheese, fries, good bread, water, wine, and flan or ice cream. Very good. Back to the bus and back on the road. By 4pm, we arrived at Salamanca where we will spend the night. After a walk around town, we will eat dinner at 8:30pm. We are getting grooved into the different schedule a little bit. Siesta time helps justify when we fall asleep on the bus. Today we were in the state of Castile. It is known for ham and pork.
The differences in the using the Internet are amusing. The first day we used our netbook and paid 6 Euros --from noon to midnight. The second day we went to the Internet cafe and paid .9 Euros ($1.15) for 45 minutes. Today we are using our netbook in our room for free.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Back to Madrid
Yesterday I started to tell you things that I had forgotten before and the computer decided that I was finished and posted the blog. So here goes.
Today was our turn to sit in the front seat --lucky. We drove through the rolling Andalusian hills. Saw miles and miles and miles of olive trees, Also melons, fields of crocusses (250,000 stamens of crocus yield one kilo of saffron --a yellow spice used in paella--a rice and seafood dish.) Grapes were being harvested in the fields and we saw tractors pulling wagons loaded with grapes.
Stopped in Toledo this afternoon and took a walking tour. Toledo is on very steep hills. No two steps were on the same level. We were either climbing straight up and going straight down. Saw an elaborate 13th century gothic cathedral, an early synagogue, and a famous ElGreco painting. Also visited a Damascene steel workshop where workmen work designs of gold into steel.
Tonight is our farewell dinner so I must close. Today has been a better day just knowing that Caitlin is out of surgery. We leave in the morning and will be back in Rockford tomorrow night. We gain 7 hours tomorrow. Thanks for traveling with us.
- When we were in Gibraltar we could look one direction and see the Mediterranean and the other and see the Atlantic Ocean. We could see Spain and turn and see North Africa--a unique experience.
- When we were in Tangiers, we stopped at a bakery. Women (or their children on the way to school) brought their freshly formed loaves of bread. The bread was baked in a community oven (similar to wood-burning pizza ovens in the US). Children could pick up the bread on the way home. Sure enough a little boy rode up on his bicycle, went in, returned with three loaves of bread in a bag and rode off.
- At dinner in Torremolinos, deep fried anchovies were served. They were not salty and so small that you just ate the whole thing. Someone commented "at home, we call these minnows."
- Yesterday at lunch in Granada, there were pictures of Matadors in their costumes on the walls right beside those same men pictured eating at that bar. Sports bars like to have pictures of sports figures who eat at their bars so why not matadors??
Today was our turn to sit in the front seat --lucky. We drove through the rolling Andalusian hills. Saw miles and miles and miles of olive trees, Also melons, fields of crocusses (250,000 stamens of crocus yield one kilo of saffron --a yellow spice used in paella--a rice and seafood dish.) Grapes were being harvested in the fields and we saw tractors pulling wagons loaded with grapes.
Stopped in Toledo this afternoon and took a walking tour. Toledo is on very steep hills. No two steps were on the same level. We were either climbing straight up and going straight down. Saw an elaborate 13th century gothic cathedral, an early synagogue, and a famous ElGreco painting. Also visited a Damascene steel workshop where workmen work designs of gold into steel.
Tonight is our farewell dinner so I must close. Today has been a better day just knowing that Caitlin is out of surgery. We leave in the morning and will be back in Rockford tomorrow night. We gain 7 hours tomorrow. Thanks for traveling with us.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Climbing the hills in Granada
We drove through the mountains for a couple hours this morning. One minute the sun was shining, the next minute we were driving through low clouds. We passed asparagus fields, olive trees, tobacco fields, corn, rice, wheat,and garlic. Saw large flocks of sheep. We reached our hotel before noon and our rooms were ready - amazing. Chuck and I ventured out and found an ATM. Also needed to find a cheap piece of luggage to supplement what we had. In a convenience store, I found a piece similar to what we needed but it was too small. A lot of hand signals and a few words ("grande") later, we had a deal. For lunch we spotted a little bar down an off street. No one spoke English except one of the other customers who helped out. We finally ordered two beers. Then I looked at what the English speaking customer was eating and ordered two pork and cheese sandwiches. The beers came and then a bowl of bean and trips soup with two spoons arrived. The customer told us that the soup was a gift to go with our beer. The food was fine. After paying the bill, the waiter came over and gave us a whole handful of wrapped mint candies, smiles, and "Gracias." What fun!
Late this afternoon we toured the Alhambra Complex. On the way up the mountain, we passed caves where Gypsies live. They were also 'working the crowd' when we arrived at the complex. The Alhambra is where Sultans lived during the 800 years of the Moorish occupation. It was a city of 2000 people until 1492. It is described as a fantasy of 'lace in stone' surrounded by arabesque gardens and fountains. It is situated above the city of Granada with sweeping views of the valley below. Also visited the royal summer residence. Most of the houses where the artisans and servants lived were destroyed when Napoleon's soldiers occupied the castle. It was beautiful, but included many steps both up and down. We were exhausted when we finished. Had the basic hotel buffet tonight.
Late this afternoon we toured the Alhambra Complex. On the way up the mountain, we passed caves where Gypsies live. They were also 'working the crowd' when we arrived at the complex. The Alhambra is where Sultans lived during the 800 years of the Moorish occupation. It was a city of 2000 people until 1492. It is described as a fantasy of 'lace in stone' surrounded by arabesque gardens and fountains. It is situated above the city of Granada with sweeping views of the valley below. Also visited the royal summer residence. Most of the houses where the artisans and servants lived were destroyed when Napoleon's soldiers occupied the castle. It was beautiful, but included many steps both up and down. We were exhausted when we finished. Had the basic hotel buffet tonight.
Monday, September 20, 2010
Listening to the waves in Torremolinos
Last night we went out to eat at a celebrated seafront restaurant. We sat at long tables. Olives and crusty bread were on the table when we arrived along with pitchers of sangria, bottles of red wine, white wine, and water. Soon platters of very small clams (smaller than a dime),and pepper salad (canned pimentos, onions, olive oil) arrived. Then plates of fried squid and fried halibut sticks. At last the sea bass. The waiters brought out the pan with the sea bass buried in salt. The waiters then 'dug up' the bass and plated it with potatoes and vegetables. Very Good. Ice cream and coffee followed.
We rose early today and started back to Gibraltar. For the most part we drove the same road that we came in on yesterday --for two hours. Did divert through Marbelle which is known as the place where all the celebrities live. Michelle Obama vacationed there recently. Julio Inglasias (sp) lives there, too. Of course, this was all an illusion of greatness because we didn't actually see any celebrities or know which house was theirs. This whole part of the coast (all two hours of it) has actually just developed into tourism spots in the last fifty years. Some areas are mostly British so there is quite a bit of English spoken. Also drove by the golf course where the Ryder Cup was played 8 years ago.
Gibraltar has been a British colony since 1704. It is the only British colony where you drive on the right side of the road. When we arrived at the border, a Spanish Border patrol boarded the bus in the front, glanced at our passports and walked out the back door. We drove a bit further and the British Border patrol did the same thing: we sat there each holding our passport turned to the picture page, he walked in the front door and out the back --30 seconds at the most. Drove down the road and there was a traffic signal. Holy Smokes we were in the middle of the Airport's runway. If there are no planes on the runway, the light is green. If there is a plane on the runway, the light is red. Crazy. Gibraltar is only six square miles. We changed to a smaller van and a local driver/guide. For about 10 minutes it rained, then cleared up. Drove up the Rock (Prudential Insurance's trademark) which is honeycombed with natural and manmade caves. We went through St. Michael's Cave --beautiful with a theater inside where concerts are held. Came out to see monkeys all around. We had been warned not to touch them --especially young ones because their mothers can become very nasty. However, our bus driver was feeding them peanuts (illegal) and so they were gathering round. One jumped on Beth's head--scared her. Then another jumped on Chuck. We escaped into the bus. A little more touring around and we were left in the city square to find lunch. The local guide recommended a Fish and Chips place. We thought it was quite reasonable until the bill came and we discovered that the price was in British pounds ($1.00 = l.67 pounds). We thought the prices were in Euros ($1.00 = 1.30Euro). Met our guide and walked back to the bus. Now to get out of Gibraltar, we all had to get off the bus, walk pass a guard and show our passport. Then they went over the bus with a fine tooth comb and we could re-board a half hour later. Two hours back to Torremolinos.
Chuck and I walked on the beautiful beach and then we found a tapas bar. Enjoyed white wine, shrimp cooked in olive oil and garlic, pepper salad, olives and crusty bread. Perfect. The weather has been so pleasant that we have had the balconey door open, listening to the waves of the Mediterranean crashing on the beach.
We rose early today and started back to Gibraltar. For the most part we drove the same road that we came in on yesterday --for two hours. Did divert through Marbelle which is known as the place where all the celebrities live. Michelle Obama vacationed there recently. Julio Inglasias (sp) lives there, too. Of course, this was all an illusion of greatness because we didn't actually see any celebrities or know which house was theirs. This whole part of the coast (all two hours of it) has actually just developed into tourism spots in the last fifty years. Some areas are mostly British so there is quite a bit of English spoken. Also drove by the golf course where the Ryder Cup was played 8 years ago.
Gibraltar has been a British colony since 1704. It is the only British colony where you drive on the right side of the road. When we arrived at the border, a Spanish Border patrol boarded the bus in the front, glanced at our passports and walked out the back door. We drove a bit further and the British Border patrol did the same thing: we sat there each holding our passport turned to the picture page, he walked in the front door and out the back --30 seconds at the most. Drove down the road and there was a traffic signal. Holy Smokes we were in the middle of the Airport's runway. If there are no planes on the runway, the light is green. If there is a plane on the runway, the light is red. Crazy. Gibraltar is only six square miles. We changed to a smaller van and a local driver/guide. For about 10 minutes it rained, then cleared up. Drove up the Rock (Prudential Insurance's trademark) which is honeycombed with natural and manmade caves. We went through St. Michael's Cave --beautiful with a theater inside where concerts are held. Came out to see monkeys all around. We had been warned not to touch them --especially young ones because their mothers can become very nasty. However, our bus driver was feeding them peanuts (illegal) and so they were gathering round. One jumped on Beth's head--scared her. Then another jumped on Chuck. We escaped into the bus. A little more touring around and we were left in the city square to find lunch. The local guide recommended a Fish and Chips place. We thought it was quite reasonable until the bill came and we discovered that the price was in British pounds ($1.00 = l.67 pounds). We thought the prices were in Euros ($1.00 = 1.30Euro). Met our guide and walked back to the bus. Now to get out of Gibraltar, we all had to get off the bus, walk pass a guard and show our passport. Then they went over the bus with a fine tooth comb and we could re-board a half hour later. Two hours back to Torremolinos.
Chuck and I walked on the beautiful beach and then we found a tapas bar. Enjoyed white wine, shrimp cooked in olive oil and garlic, pepper salad, olives and crusty bread. Perfect. The weather has been so pleasant that we have had the balconey door open, listening to the waves of the Mediterranean crashing on the beach.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
On the Beach in Torremolinos, Spain
Today I am sitting in a hotel where I can look out past the balcony (5 x 7) and see a wide beach set up with beach chairs--all facing the Mediterranean Sea. This is definitely a tourist area. The sides of the hills are honeycombed with three and four story beach places. It is a welcome relief from the intensity of Tangiers. Let's start back at Friday night:
We went to see the flamenco dancers. They were fantastic with their sweeping skirts, castanets, clapping, singing men, guitars. The menu selections were pork, (which most of us took), fish, chicken, and bull's tail--Chuck and Christine chose that. Said it tasted very rich, a little fat, but flavorful. Later both Jerry and Chuck perfected their clothes drying skills using the hair driers. We could only take a carry-on for our trip to Morocco so we had to pack carefully..
On Saturday morning, we drove through the sunny sherry wine region of Jerez to Algeciras. We saw huge ranch houses, fields of cotton, many olive trees (some 800 years old), sheep, horses, cattle, hayfields. It was a pleasant drive. At our comfort stop, we saw a number of motorcycle riders. All had on helmets. In Seville there were many motor scooters and bicycles.
Around noon we arrived at the Ferry and sailed across the Straits of Gibraltar to Africa. In Tanger (that is how they spell it), we met a new bus and our guide Mohammed. He spoke flawless English and was a real pleasure. We noticed that most women wore scarves and long dresses. A few young women did not. Only men were seated at sidewalk cafes. Our guide explained that it would be ok for female tourist to sit there, but if a local women sat there, the assumption would be that she was looking for 'trouble.' We drove along the Atlantic ocean. Stopped for mint tea (excellent) and some cookies. Saw camels that could be ridden. Also selling couscous mixed with fresh, warm camel's milk. There seemed to be quite a bit of trash along the road - similar to India. Land along the seafront is very expensive. They are having more ecological concerns and not allowing people to build so close to the coast. Walked through old town in a seaside fishing village, Asilah. Finally we drove back to Tanger and our hotel.
Dinner was at the hotel. The main dish was a tangine served in a huge bowl. In the middle of the bowl was a whole roasted chicken, surrounded by couscous, and topped with carrots, turnips, squash, parsnips, and cabbage served with a vegetable broth. It was piled up in a cone shaped mountain. Very good.
This morning we met Mohammed for a stroll through the Casbah. Again we were trudging through the narrow alleys which were pungent with early morning smells. Visited a local carpet store. Some of us succumbed to the salesmanship and the beauty of the carpets --enough said. Finally we arrived at the Souk--market where we were bombarded from all sides with 'deals.' Four for $10 quickly became 5 for $5. It was a wild experience, but one that we expected.
Took the ferry back across the Strait of Gibraltar. Rode the bus two hours through Spain's vacation area the Costa Del Sol. I must admit I slept most of the way. I feel refreshed. Tonight we go out for a dinner of salt-encrusted sea bass. That's it for now.
We went to see the flamenco dancers. They were fantastic with their sweeping skirts, castanets, clapping, singing men, guitars. The menu selections were pork, (which most of us took), fish, chicken, and bull's tail--Chuck and Christine chose that. Said it tasted very rich, a little fat, but flavorful. Later both Jerry and Chuck perfected their clothes drying skills using the hair driers. We could only take a carry-on for our trip to Morocco so we had to pack carefully..
On Saturday morning, we drove through the sunny sherry wine region of Jerez to Algeciras. We saw huge ranch houses, fields of cotton, many olive trees (some 800 years old), sheep, horses, cattle, hayfields. It was a pleasant drive. At our comfort stop, we saw a number of motorcycle riders. All had on helmets. In Seville there were many motor scooters and bicycles.
Around noon we arrived at the Ferry and sailed across the Straits of Gibraltar to Africa. In Tanger (that is how they spell it), we met a new bus and our guide Mohammed. He spoke flawless English and was a real pleasure. We noticed that most women wore scarves and long dresses. A few young women did not. Only men were seated at sidewalk cafes. Our guide explained that it would be ok for female tourist to sit there, but if a local women sat there, the assumption would be that she was looking for 'trouble.' We drove along the Atlantic ocean. Stopped for mint tea (excellent) and some cookies. Saw camels that could be ridden. Also selling couscous mixed with fresh, warm camel's milk. There seemed to be quite a bit of trash along the road - similar to India. Land along the seafront is very expensive. They are having more ecological concerns and not allowing people to build so close to the coast. Walked through old town in a seaside fishing village, Asilah. Finally we drove back to Tanger and our hotel.
Dinner was at the hotel. The main dish was a tangine served in a huge bowl. In the middle of the bowl was a whole roasted chicken, surrounded by couscous, and topped with carrots, turnips, squash, parsnips, and cabbage served with a vegetable broth. It was piled up in a cone shaped mountain. Very good.
This morning we met Mohammed for a stroll through the Casbah. Again we were trudging through the narrow alleys which were pungent with early morning smells. Visited a local carpet store. Some of us succumbed to the salesmanship and the beauty of the carpets --enough said. Finally we arrived at the Souk--market where we were bombarded from all sides with 'deals.' Four for $10 quickly became 5 for $5. It was a wild experience, but one that we expected.
Took the ferry back across the Strait of Gibraltar. Rode the bus two hours through Spain's vacation area the Costa Del Sol. I must admit I slept most of the way. I feel refreshed. Tonight we go out for a dinner of salt-encrusted sea bass. That's it for now.
Friday, September 17, 2010
Rainy Seville!
Seville has the reputation for being the hottest, driest place in Spain. Today was cool and rainy--delightful. We feel lucky. Temps are frequently 115 degrees or more in the summer.
Well, remember the story about the pickpocket in the middle of our group. Turns out that that 'clean cut guy' was another guide--not a pickpocket. The joke was on us!
Today we toured the narrow lanes of SANTA CRUZ QUARTER and visited the Cathedral--largest Gothic style cathedral in the world. It was huge. Houses the tombs of Christopher Columbus and his son. The Moorish influence is everywhere in this city. We saw evidence of the 1929 Exposition of the Americas and the 1992 World's fair. Those events were reason for many bridges and buildings to be built.
Must tell you that when we are on walking tours or inside of big buildings --cathedrals, museums, etc.--we wear 'whispers.' They are little sound systems so the guide can just speak normally and we can all hear through the little ear buds we wear. We are a group of 43 and the whispers allow all to hear.
For lunch we enjoyed Sangria and tapas. The waitress spoke no English and the menu was in Spanish, too. Always interesting to see what you get. Thank goodness for Chuck's Spanish phrase book.
Went shopping in a department store. When I asked the clerks a question, they ran to get a younger woman who spoke English--very well, I might add. She then asked me if I wanted her to accompany me to the rest of the store--"Of course." It was a nice experience. Went to the super market (bottom floor of the department store) to look for saffron spice. Couldn't find it. Finally I said "Paella" (a rice/fish dish that uses saffron) and someone pointed us in the direction of a spice rack.
Tonight we go to a flamenco show. Tomorrow we leave for Morocco and will be out of touch for a couple days.
We received news that our granddaughter, Caitlin Brown, is to have back surgery on Tuesday. She has recently been diagnosed with scoliosis and is going to Madison, Wisconsin for surgery --about an hour from her home in Platteville, WI. Timing is lousy, but Laura, Brian, and Caitlin have a support system (including some of you) and a good doctor. Keep them in your prayers.
Well, remember the story about the pickpocket in the middle of our group. Turns out that that 'clean cut guy' was another guide--not a pickpocket. The joke was on us!
Today we toured the narrow lanes of SANTA CRUZ QUARTER and visited the Cathedral--largest Gothic style cathedral in the world. It was huge. Houses the tombs of Christopher Columbus and his son. The Moorish influence is everywhere in this city. We saw evidence of the 1929 Exposition of the Americas and the 1992 World's fair. Those events were reason for many bridges and buildings to be built.
Must tell you that when we are on walking tours or inside of big buildings --cathedrals, museums, etc.--we wear 'whispers.' They are little sound systems so the guide can just speak normally and we can all hear through the little ear buds we wear. We are a group of 43 and the whispers allow all to hear.
For lunch we enjoyed Sangria and tapas. The waitress spoke no English and the menu was in Spanish, too. Always interesting to see what you get. Thank goodness for Chuck's Spanish phrase book.
Went shopping in a department store. When I asked the clerks a question, they ran to get a younger woman who spoke English--very well, I might add. She then asked me if I wanted her to accompany me to the rest of the store--"Of course." It was a nice experience. Went to the super market (bottom floor of the department store) to look for saffron spice. Couldn't find it. Finally I said "Paella" (a rice/fish dish that uses saffron) and someone pointed us in the direction of a spice rack.
Tonight we go to a flamenco show. Tomorrow we leave for Morocco and will be out of touch for a couple days.
We received news that our granddaughter, Caitlin Brown, is to have back surgery on Tuesday. She has recently been diagnosed with scoliosis and is going to Madison, Wisconsin for surgery --about an hour from her home in Platteville, WI. Timing is lousy, but Laura, Brian, and Caitlin have a support system (including some of you) and a good doctor. Keep them in your prayers.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Arriving in Seville
I just posted Wednesday's activities during our last full day in Portugal. Last night we went to a Portuguese dinner with Fado-style entertainment. By now you know that we had wine, olives, good crusty bread, a fish course, a chicken course, and fruit. I would explain the food in more detail, but once the entertainment started the lights went down and I could not see what I was eating! The Fado-style dancing was folk dancing: four couples in ethnic costume (men with black pants, red cumberbuns, white shirts, and hats and women with dirdle skirts, peasant blouses, laced up vests, etc.) were accompanied by accordion and drum. There were also several singers who entertained accompanied by string instruments. It was very LOUD. I think it was a combination of low ceilings and too much wine. The guide reminded us that we had come for the entertainment, not the food.
This morning we left Lisbon and drove 275 miles to Seville. Left Lisbon by the Vasa ga Dama bridge which is one of the highest suspension bridges in the world - also one of the longest --10 miles. We drove through more high dessert. In fact, it reminded us of the terrain around Jerusalem, hilly with sheep on the hillsides, dry, scrub trees. Also cows. Saw many cork trees - an important crop in Portugal. Later we saw orange trees. The land in Portugal is not rich. About a third of the people are employed in farming. Yields are lower than in most of Europe. We stopped in a seaside town for lunch - very near the Spanish border. Enjoyed local pizza with mushrooms, shrimp, and tuna on it. Delicious.
When we arrived in Seville, we quickly toured the Spanish Pavilion from the 1929 Exposition. We were gathered around the guide as he was pointing our features of the large pavilion. I had just purchased postcards and castanets from a street vendor. All of a sudden the guide said, "watch than man in the middle of the group." There was a clean cut guy walking through our group. The guide identified him as a pickpocket. He had not cleaned any of our pockets, but it was a lesson that thieves don't always look like you expect.
Tonight is a quiet night with dinner in the hotel
This morning we left Lisbon and drove 275 miles to Seville. Left Lisbon by the Vasa ga Dama bridge which is one of the highest suspension bridges in the world - also one of the longest --10 miles. We drove through more high dessert. In fact, it reminded us of the terrain around Jerusalem, hilly with sheep on the hillsides, dry, scrub trees. Also cows. Saw many cork trees - an important crop in Portugal. Later we saw orange trees. The land in Portugal is not rich. About a third of the people are employed in farming. Yields are lower than in most of Europe. We stopped in a seaside town for lunch - very near the Spanish border. Enjoyed local pizza with mushrooms, shrimp, and tuna on it. Delicious.
When we arrived in Seville, we quickly toured the Spanish Pavilion from the 1929 Exposition. We were gathered around the guide as he was pointing our features of the large pavilion. I had just purchased postcards and castanets from a street vendor. All of a sudden the guide said, "watch than man in the middle of the group." There was a clean cut guy walking through our group. The guide identified him as a pickpocket. He had not cleaned any of our pockets, but it was a lesson that thieves don't always look like you expect.
Tonight is a quiet night with dinner in the hotel
A Cool Day on the Iberian Pennisula
Today was cool with a high of 75.It was cloudy with occasional sprinkles. We all agreed that we could handle being wet from rain rather than being wet from sweat. Our morning tour of Lisbon started with a tour of Alfama,the original quarter of the seamen. Streets were cobbled, barely wide enough for a small car. Some alleys were so narrow that people had to walk single file. Alfama was re-built after the 1755 earthquake, fire, tsunami. It sits on a very hilly spot at the base of the harbor and is now inhabited by very elderly tenants. The buildings are rent controlled. Portuguese laws prohibits landlords from forcing tenants out. As we were standing in the street with our guide who was telling us about Alfama, we heard in insistent whistle. It was an old lady who wanted to walk through our group and she did- all the while tooting her whistle! Later we saw her sitting in a coffee shop with her morning coffee and roll.
Later we visited the Jeronimos Monastery which is 500 years old and huge. The building took one hundred years to build and glorifies the New World discoveries rather than saints! One of the early kings expelled all Catholic from the monasteries and convents. Those buildings were then converted to museums or public buildings. After 1950, the Catholics were allowed to re-establish their orders and did so in smaller buildings. Back to the monastery. Vasco daGama is entombed there. Now mass is held there on a regular basis.
We took the optional afternoon tour along the Iberian Peninsula. Our first stop was the Royal Summer Palace and its gardens. Then we drove along the Atlantic Ocean. Like Hiway One in California, the highway curves along the coast between the shore on one side and the towns on the other side. With today's drizzly, foggy weather it took a bit of imagination to see it with your mind's eye on a beautiful day. Drove through Estoril where the rich and famous have vacationed for years. Ate lunch in the picturesque fishing village of Cascais. Chuck and Christine both enjoyed grilled sardines. The rest of us passed on that. The sardines are 8 - 9 inches long and are served with their heads on. After a little shopping, we headed for Sintra, another town along the coast.
Portuguese tidbits: roosters are good luck and can be found on all sorts of souvenirs: towels, tiles, magnets, shirts, etc. The typical house is white stucco and has a red tile roof. Painted and fired porcelain tiles are used extensively on and in buildings. Tiles are left over from the Moorish occupation of the Iberian Pennisula. Last night's restaurant had a huge tile scenes on two walls.
Later we visited the Jeronimos Monastery which is 500 years old and huge. The building took one hundred years to build and glorifies the New World discoveries rather than saints! One of the early kings expelled all Catholic from the monasteries and convents. Those buildings were then converted to museums or public buildings. After 1950, the Catholics were allowed to re-establish their orders and did so in smaller buildings. Back to the monastery. Vasco daGama is entombed there. Now mass is held there on a regular basis.
We took the optional afternoon tour along the Iberian Peninsula. Our first stop was the Royal Summer Palace and its gardens. Then we drove along the Atlantic Ocean. Like Hiway One in California, the highway curves along the coast between the shore on one side and the towns on the other side. With today's drizzly, foggy weather it took a bit of imagination to see it with your mind's eye on a beautiful day. Drove through Estoril where the rich and famous have vacationed for years. Ate lunch in the picturesque fishing village of Cascais. Chuck and Christine both enjoyed grilled sardines. The rest of us passed on that. The sardines are 8 - 9 inches long and are served with their heads on. After a little shopping, we headed for Sintra, another town along the coast.
Portuguese tidbits: roosters are good luck and can be found on all sorts of souvenirs: towels, tiles, magnets, shirts, etc. The typical house is white stucco and has a red tile roof. Painted and fired porcelain tiles are used extensively on and in buildings. Tiles are left over from the Moorish occupation of the Iberian Pennisula. Last night's restaurant had a huge tile scenes on two walls.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Greetings from Lisbon, Portugal
Good morning. I have paid for internet access, but cannot get it. Will type on a document and hope that I can later transfer it to the blog. Yesterday---let's see if I can remember. It was very cold when we got up. Went back and I got a light coat out of my suitcase and Chuck (also John) retrieved their long pants. Left Salamanca and traveled through high desert. This area had ranches and raised bulls--of which they were very proud. Every so often there would be statues of bulls painted different colors (like when Chicago had the cows all over downtown)--maybe two or three together along the highway.We traveled through Serra da Estrela mountain range. Parts had been very dry with the corn stunted --short and dried up. We traveled 330 miles yesterday. Made three separate stops. The last one was Fatima for Sanctuary for Our Lady of the Rosary. It is a huge Catholic holy place with a church, chapel, and a square that held 500,000 people. The 13th of the month is very special and crowds had been there the day before. People come for healing---often walking many miles and then on knees across the huge square on the way to the statue of Jesus. Others came to fill vessels of holy water. By this point it was very hot with temps 95 to 98. C & J were muttering about their shorts that were packed safely away.
Arrived in Lisbon. Lisbon is grittier and older than Madrid. Chuck went out to buy water. Although the hotel is ok, it is located in an area that has seen better days--out the front door and fine out the back. At 6:30pm we took the ferry across the Tagus river and ate at a typical Portuguese restaurant. When we sat down, each place was set with a stack of three plates and a small one of top. On the table, there were baskets of crusty bread, a bottle of red wine, bottle of white wine, pitcher of green (new) wine, bottle of water, beer, head-on boiled shrimp, along with various fried appetizers. We started right in. Next came bowls of soup--rich soup broth with tomato and seafood. Next came a nice vegetable salad, Next came small shrimp with garlic and olive oil, baby clams, --the best clams ever. Next came a rice dish with crab and then paella. After all was cleared we were served dessert--kiwi, oranges, and papaya, and pineapple topped with whipped cream--yum, Then glasses of port and finally coffee. We staggered to the bus and came home via the 25th April bridge, built by the same company that built the Golden Gate bridge. The Christa Ray statue, a huge statue of Christ overlooking the bay, stands high on the hill by the bridge. The lighting at night made the statue more impressive than it was in daylight.
Wow, I was able to paste this in. Have plenty of time today because we changed time zones when we crossed into Portugal (a non-event--just drove through), but WE didn't change watches, etc. So instead of getting up at 6:30am, we got up at 5:30a.m! Now it's off to breakfast.
Arrived in Lisbon. Lisbon is grittier and older than Madrid. Chuck went out to buy water. Although the hotel is ok, it is located in an area that has seen better days--out the front door and fine out the back. At 6:30pm we took the ferry across the Tagus river and ate at a typical Portuguese restaurant. When we sat down, each place was set with a stack of three plates and a small one of top. On the table, there were baskets of crusty bread, a bottle of red wine, bottle of white wine, pitcher of green (new) wine, bottle of water, beer, head-on boiled shrimp, along with various fried appetizers. We started right in. Next came bowls of soup--rich soup broth with tomato and seafood. Next came a nice vegetable salad, Next came small shrimp with garlic and olive oil, baby clams, --the best clams ever. Next came a rice dish with crab and then paella. After all was cleared we were served dessert--kiwi, oranges, and papaya, and pineapple topped with whipped cream--yum, Then glasses of port and finally coffee. We staggered to the bus and came home via the 25th April bridge, built by the same company that built the Golden Gate bridge. The Christa Ray statue, a huge statue of Christ overlooking the bay, stands high on the hill by the bridge. The lighting at night made the statue more impressive than it was in daylight.
Wow, I was able to paste this in. Have plenty of time today because we changed time zones when we crossed into Portugal (a non-event--just drove through), but WE didn't change watches, etc. So instead of getting up at 6:30am, we got up at 5:30a.m! Now it's off to breakfast.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
It´s hot in Spain 9-12-10
TODAY IS SUNDAY BUT IT DOESN´T SEEM LIKE IT. I AM WRITING IN ALL CAPS BECAUSE I AM AT AN INTERNET CAFE. THE COMPUTER IS ANCIENT AND SOMEWHAT DIFFERENT.
We met our guide, Jose. He will be with us the entire trip. He doesn't want us to wear our name tags because it will instantly identify us as tourist --newly arrived tourist. He is concerned that that will make us more vulnerable. Jesus is our bus driver. He will also be with us the entire trip.
THIS MORNING WE TOOK A TOUR AROUND THE CITY. CITY CENTER WAS ABSOLUTELY BURIED IN A SEA OF GARBAGE. LAST NIGHT WAS ´´WHITE NIGHT´´ WITH LOTS OF PICNICING, SHOPPING, MUSEUMS OPEN UNTIL 5 AM. APPARENTLY LOTS OF PARTYING. THE REST OF THE CITY HAS BEEN TIDY. MANY BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS, LOTS OF STATUES-MONUMENTS, . THEN WE SPENT AN HOUR AND A HALF AT PRADA MUSEUM. THE GUIDE SHOWED US LOTS OF GOYA, REMBRANT, ETC. PAINTINGS. AT NOON WE WENT BACK TO THE HOTEL FOR A BREAK. AROUND 1.30 WE WALKED TO THE TRAIN STATION. FOUND A BEAUTIFUL INDOOR GARDEN IN THE OLD TRAIN TERMINAL. SAW MANY, MANY SMALL TURTLES ABOUT THE SIZE OF A DINNER PLATE. THEY STACKED THEMSELVES UP LIKE A MAMA WITH TWO BABIES ON TOP --FUNNY. ATE LUNCH AND VISITED UNTIL 4 PM.
TIME IS DIFFERENT. BREAKFAST IS LIGHT. SOMETIMES A SMALL OMELET MIDMORNING OR SO. LUNCH IS NEVER BEFORE 1. SIESTAS ARE IN THE AFTERNOON. EVERYTHING IS PRETTY QUIET FROM 3.30 TO 5PM. EARLY EVENING IS TAPAS AND WINE. TAPAS IS A VERY SMALL SERVING OF JUST ABOUT ANYTHING. COULD BE FISH, MEAT, SANDWICH, ETC. WILL LET YOU KNOW MORE ON THAT AFTER WE SAMPLE IT. THE WINE IS A VERY SMALL SERVING, TOO SO YOU CAN VISIT SEVERAL BARS. DINNER IS SERVED AFTER 9PM, BUT AS LATE AS MIDNIGHT. WE ARE OBVIOUSLY ADJUSTING SLOWLY BUT WANT TO TRY TAPAS SOMETIME. LAST NIGHT AT THE WELCOME DINNER WE WERE SERVED A PITCHER OF SANGRIA TO SHARE WITH OUR TABLE OF SIX. IT WAS THE BEST WE HAD EVER TASTED.
We met our guide, Jose. He will be with us the entire trip. He doesn't want us to wear our name tags because it will instantly identify us as tourist --newly arrived tourist. He is concerned that that will make us more vulnerable. Jesus is our bus driver. He will also be with us the entire trip.
THIS MORNING WE TOOK A TOUR AROUND THE CITY. CITY CENTER WAS ABSOLUTELY BURIED IN A SEA OF GARBAGE. LAST NIGHT WAS ´´WHITE NIGHT´´ WITH LOTS OF PICNICING, SHOPPING, MUSEUMS OPEN UNTIL 5 AM. APPARENTLY LOTS OF PARTYING. THE REST OF THE CITY HAS BEEN TIDY. MANY BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS, LOTS OF STATUES-MONUMENTS, . THEN WE SPENT AN HOUR AND A HALF AT PRADA MUSEUM. THE GUIDE SHOWED US LOTS OF GOYA, REMBRANT, ETC. PAINTINGS. AT NOON WE WENT BACK TO THE HOTEL FOR A BREAK. AROUND 1.30 WE WALKED TO THE TRAIN STATION. FOUND A BEAUTIFUL INDOOR GARDEN IN THE OLD TRAIN TERMINAL. SAW MANY, MANY SMALL TURTLES ABOUT THE SIZE OF A DINNER PLATE. THEY STACKED THEMSELVES UP LIKE A MAMA WITH TWO BABIES ON TOP --FUNNY. ATE LUNCH AND VISITED UNTIL 4 PM.
TIME IS DIFFERENT. BREAKFAST IS LIGHT. SOMETIMES A SMALL OMELET MIDMORNING OR SO. LUNCH IS NEVER BEFORE 1. SIESTAS ARE IN THE AFTERNOON. EVERYTHING IS PRETTY QUIET FROM 3.30 TO 5PM. EARLY EVENING IS TAPAS AND WINE. TAPAS IS A VERY SMALL SERVING OF JUST ABOUT ANYTHING. COULD BE FISH, MEAT, SANDWICH, ETC. WILL LET YOU KNOW MORE ON THAT AFTER WE SAMPLE IT. THE WINE IS A VERY SMALL SERVING, TOO SO YOU CAN VISIT SEVERAL BARS. DINNER IS SERVED AFTER 9PM, BUT AS LATE AS MIDNIGHT. WE ARE OBVIOUSLY ADJUSTING SLOWLY BUT WANT TO TRY TAPAS SOMETIME. LAST NIGHT AT THE WELCOME DINNER WE WERE SERVED A PITCHER OF SANGRIA TO SHARE WITH OUR TABLE OF SIX. IT WAS THE BEST WE HAD EVER TASTED.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Greetings from Madrid, Spain 9/11/10
We traveled east and greeted the sun in Madrid- a city of about four million people. Our flights were uneventful - the best kind. Flew from O'Hare to Boston in less than 2 hours. Our luggage was checked through to Madrid. In Boston we had to go from one end of the airport to the other end. Fortunately there was a shuttle in the middle. After a short layover, we flew to Madrid - less than 7 hours. John Johnson had difficulty getting his boarding pass to Madrid so we waited on him. I had difficulty getting through security--waited forever for a 'female assist' to wand me, pat me down, pull my money belt out, etc. My metal knees really make the security buzzers go off. Anyway, we made it! The Madrid airport terminal is new and beautiful. The ceiling looks like waves starting with blue and changing to yellow. As Jerry noted, their more temperate climate leaves them more options for design. BUT we walked a long, long way. Probably walked 15 to 20 minutes to just reach customs. By the time we had our baggage it was around 8:00am and the sun was just coming up. We are 7 hours ahead of Rockford.
Of course, our hotel rooms were not ready and we felt hung over from overnight travel. Around noon, we got into our room at the Agumar. Nice room with the world's tinest balcony - probably measures 18" by 36". Chuck enjoyed the local custom of taking a siesta and now he is in much better humor! We explored the neighborhood on foot--visited a supermarket and photographed some of their famous (and very expensive) hams. Tonight is the welcome dinner.
Of course, our hotel rooms were not ready and we felt hung over from overnight travel. Around noon, we got into our room at the Agumar. Nice room with the world's tinest balcony - probably measures 18" by 36". Chuck enjoyed the local custom of taking a siesta and now he is in much better humor! We explored the neighborhood on foot--visited a supermarket and photographed some of their famous (and very expensive) hams. Tonight is the welcome dinner.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Getting ready for the Iberian Adventure
The suitcases and backpacks are laid out in the guest bedroom. Chuck has been out getting Kashi bars and Rolaids (for me). The new windbreaker/raincoats that we ordered have arrived. Next, we are going to shop for some paperbacks. One of these days we will worry about clothes. This initial entry is just a trial run because we had to reset the blog with a gmail address.
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